14 bolt disc brakes but need parking brake

oakridgecj

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2005
Location
Greensboro
im wanting to do a disc conversion on my 14 bolt, but i understand that I need to keep a manual parking brake to remain street legal. What are my options here? i know about the eldorado calipers but they seem problematic and hard to come by. whats everyone else using?
 
Jess's driveline brake.
 
any cheaper options....that method will cost me almost $700 since id hace to get the advanced adapters output kit and buy HAD's flange kit as well. not in the budget right now. are line locks street legal. i have read that they are not but not sure
 
When have you ever had an inspection done where they test the park brakes?
 
I've used one kit from blackbirdcustoms, it used a cadillac caliper.
That kit was used for a Sterling but im sure there's something for a 14b. Or buy Gubni's and support the local guys.
 
are line locks street legal. i have read that they are not but not sure

from what i have been told, i don't think they are really legal, but depends on where you get your inspection. the e-brake should be adjustable and needs to be able to hold the vehicle in place at idle in 1st gear.
 
When have you ever had an inspection done where they test the park brakes?

I had a dude flunk my old Bronco because the e-brake wouldn't hold it still in reverse. I didn't even bother arguing. It wasn't worth my time. I just left. I had another guy in K'vegas acuse me of working for the DMV and trying to bust him. Fawking stupid inspections.
 
Yep. I was flunked when I first moved here for my parking brake... Took to a different dude... Problem solved! Stay away from the joints that only do inspections. They've got crazy equipment designed just for inspecting. They'll whip out the laser sights to try to fail your headlight alignment. My new dude looks in his mirrors hanging on the wall and confirms my headlights now. 15 years in NC and my parking brake has never worked.
 
because they are not user friendly to change and work on, plus the holding power on them are marginal at best, to small for a 2500 series truck with a 8.1 liter motor.
 
because they are not user friendly to change and work on, plus the holding power on them are marginal at best, to small for a 2500 series truck with a 8.1 liter motor.

Are you doing rally-style handbrake turns or something? It doesn't take much to statically hold a truck in place when parked.
 
because they are not user friendly to change and work on, plus the holding power on them are marginal at best, to small for a 2500 series truck with a 8.1 liter motor.
It does in massachusetts when they do inspections and you have to be able to rev engine to 1200 rpm and have the ebrake hold.


They work fine on my 04 2500 Avalanche.

They will hold my truck with 7k lbs trailer on a hill.

They also hold truck on flat ground and on the throttle. I've made that mistake several times.

Sounds like something isn't working correctly on your factory stuff, and I doubt those caddy calipers have as much holding power as the factory shoes.

Mine are all factory with 120k miles. Checked them 5k miles ago and still had plenty of life left when I changed rear pads and rotors.

I would imagine all the salt up there would be hell on all the parts.

Are your cables locked up?

Are the inside of the rotor hats rusted badly? Are the shoes worn out? Is everything functioning as it should?

I think the caddy calipers would be a huge reduction in stopping power over the factory Avalanche calipers, from having smaller total piston area and smaller pads.

The 2500 parts are all designed and engineered to work with that truck and what it can tow. Those requirements differ greatly from a 78 Cadillac.

As well, the mounting style and dimensions between the two are completely different. So you would have to adapt the brake line, as well as custom mounts for the caliper.

I have no idea but they may be designed for different thickness rotors as well. So that would mean finding an alternative rotor as well.
 
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Caddy calipers suck.

If your parking brake isn't working, it probably just needs fixed. The one on my Dodge needs adjusted about once a year (for whatever reason, maybe the shoes drag a hair), but when it's working, it holds truck and trailer, no problem.
 
The shoe material makes a difference too. My 03 f250 wouldn't hold even on my driveway that slopes about 3" over 50 feet while empty. The truck would slowly roll towards the street in neutral. I had NAPA brake shoes on the parking brake. I bought the shoes from Ford and replaced them and it would hold even with a trailer attached on much steeper hills. The Ford shoes were much softer, you could dent them with a fingernail, the napa shoes were so hard you could barely scratch them with a screwdriver.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
My vote is a drive line brake. If you get creative you can do it fairly inexpensively, especially if you already have a fixed-yoke output on the transfer case. I think I built mine for ~$500 with parts from TSM and some parts I fabricated. I am using a TSM disc that bolts to the output yoke (I run a 1350 yoke, not a flange).
 
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