Homemade Flatbed Questions.

mattb6679

mattb6679

Active Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Location
WALLBURG
Ive recently ran across a 01 F-350 PSD. The PO had already started to build a flatbed on the truck and its welded on pretty good as he was a welder by trade. My Question. You will have to look at the pics. Is the bed to low on the chassis? Its welded directly on to the frame. I only tow a 18ft car hauler it weighs in at 2,500lbs, + a Jeep XJ on the trailer and a couple of atvs in the bed. Im thinking air bags might solve this whole problem. I drove the Jeep up on the back of the bed, I really don't know how to calculate the weight like that. Or how many lbs of tongue rate it would represent. I was planning to use 2X8 for the cover. The level represents where the Flooring would lay. Any Ideas? Or do I even have a problem?
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Oh yeah that is way too low. Mine is 2" and I've hit the bed with my tires. I'll be putting a radius in my rails. All that to say you could leave a hole in the wood over where the tier is then put a piece of 1/4" steel diamond plate over the top to give it more movement up. Also is the bed welded to the frame of the truck?
 
Yep the bed is welded to the truck. Just found out that wont work. im gonna leave it like it is maybe put some wood on it. And save up some money to put a nice bed on it.
 
I think it might be better if you extend the frame and move the axle back a good bit so the majority of the weight is center above or in front of the rear axle. Also airbags would probably be worth the time and money for extra load capacity.
 
or just make some "fenders" from some diamond plate and weld in place, then use wood for the rest.

measure between the axle and bump stops = 6" or so, then make sure you have that much and then some (maybe 2" more) of clearance at rest. Those numbers are arbitrary, but you get my point...




seems like the guy that put the bed on there was more of a welder than a fabricator... :rolleyes:
 
welding the bed to the frame flanges was a bad idea. worse if it was done on the front next to the cab. some school of thoughts say that welding the rear is exceptable only if the front is u-bolted or simaler. this allows the bed to float a bit and the frame to flex. I prefer bolt flanges, u-bolts, or even rubber isolated subframes pending the type of bed. when welding to the flanges the flanges themselves become weakened since they are a heat treated type of material to begin with. I do recomend cutting it loose and trying to bolt pads to the frame to bolt through (drilled and mounted only through the verticle sides) or a ubolt type attachment. Also be sure not to undercut the rails at all when removing the weld. This will result in fatigue and stress cracks in the frame. If your not very profficient with a torch and extremely careful around wires and fuel sources I highly recomend using thin cut off rocks to cut the welds. Take out only the weld and start high on the joint. You can always clean up the frame alittle more but you have alot more issues with putting the metal back in. I've repaired,sectioned, shortened, and built bodies beds and equipment of all sorts of frame rails.Light trucks to double/tripple layer rail cement mixer chasis so send me a message if I can help with advice or otherwise.
 
As for the clearence, measure the distance the spring can travel verticle to the bump stop. Add 75% of the rubbers thickness to that. This is a good number for the amount the tire needs for clearence. I always fudge alittle more 1-2 inches for the axle getting crossed up on uneven ground.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
welding the bed to the frame flanges was a bad idea. worse if it was done on the front next to the cab. some school of thoughts say that welding the rear is exceptable only if the front is u-bolted or simaler. this allows the bed to float a bit and the frame to flex. I prefer bolt flanges, u-bolts, or even rubber isolated subframes pending the type of bed. when welding to the flanges the flanges themselves become weakened since they are a heat treated type of material to begin with. I do recomend cutting it loose and trying to bolt pads to the frame to bolt through (drilled and mounted only through the verticle sides) or a ubolt type attachment. Also be sure not to undercut the rails at all when removing the weld. This will result in fatigue and stress cracks in the frame. If your not very profficient with a torch and extremely careful around wires and fuel sources I highly recomend using thin cut off rocks to cut the welds. Take out only the weld and start high on the joint. You can always clean up the frame alittle more but you have alot more issues with putting the metal back in. I've repaired,sectioned, shortened, and built bodies beds and equipment of all sorts of frame rails.Light trucks to double/tripple layer rail cement mixer chasis so send me a message if I can help with advice or otherwise.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info. Im just gonna keep my eyes open for a used flat bed. or a whole truck that i can take the bed off of. Will it hurt to drive it for a few weeks with the bed welded to it. some have said its gonna crack the frame
 
you can build one cheaper most of the time.
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if there aren't any mounts on the frame make some outta angle iron. then make a spacer based on the clearance of the rear wheels with a jack under one wheel.
 
big sheet of diamond plate, 2 rec tubes and 6 pcs of square tube for. does't include the top window rack. 250$ all material bought @ kings mountain scrap yard . the flat bar i had laying around. If you need the clearance go with 4x4" square tubing on the bottom. I've fit 2 full size 4wd atv's and a dirt bike .

here's a flatbed i made up but never actually built
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