Just another YJ build

Basically. Or adapt internal parking brake setup off a newer truck. Supposedly there is a parking brake caliper off a latel 90s E350, but ive never been able to find it.

late 90's and up should have an internal drum as the ebrake with the caliper as the normal brake. The rotors on those axles slide over the hubs rather than having the studs pressed through them into the hub.


I pmd Shawn at Lugnut4x4, and he said he will have some of the e-brake retrofit kits in stock by October. I might go that route. Not sure.

Emergency Brake Kit Front & Rear Brake Kits | 14 Bolt Disc Brake Kit

Those are just El Dorado calipers. I had a terrible time bleeding them and also had issues with them constantly leaking. I went back to standard Chevy front calipers. My plan was to plumb a Wilwood slave cylinder in the rear brake line and use that as a hydraulic ebrake. Now, if a rear line was to get cut, it obviously wouldn't work but if the master cylinder died, it would be able to apply the rear brakes. See post #145 in the below thread.

Betsy's Build
 
late 90's and up should have an internal drum as the ebrake with the caliper as the normal brake. The rotors on those axles slide over the hubs rather than having the studs pressed through them into the hub.

That is what I have found... apparently there is a unicorn out there that has integrated parking brake in the caliper.
 
Those are just El Dorado calipers. I had a terrible time bleeding them and also had issues with them constantly leaking. I went back to standard Chevy front calipers. My plan was to plumb a Wilwood slave cylinder in the rear brake line and use that as a hydraulic ebrake. Now, if a rear line was to get cut, it obviously wouldn't work but if the master cylinder died, it would be able to apply the rear brakes. See post #145 in the below thread.

Betsy's Build

Yes, they are Eldorado calipers.

I've never seen an E-brake done like that link you posted.

I've read some complaints on the Eldo calipers E-brake not holding well, but haven't heard about leaking problems.

This dude had good luck with them using a custom E-brake bracket:
14 bolt disk brake conversion with e-brake - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
I made a little bit more progress this weekend. I cut the leaf spring perches off my 14 bolt so I can move them to YJ spring width. I swapped the new Chevy brake rotors on to the Ford D60 front hubs. I also removed the fuel tank.

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No triangulation in that wood, it'll never work.


Looks good, even the red for "woooooo mule" stoppers.
Now the yellow with it screams Mac Donalds or 1985.
 
No triangulation in that wood, it'll never work.


Looks good, even the red for "woooooo mule" stoppers.
Now the yellow with it screams Mac Donalds or 1985.

I have a problem with paint, LOL.
 
Let me know how you end up liking those 4wheel supply arms. Going full hydro and those Artec arms are pricey!
 
Let me know how you end up liking those 4wheel supply arms. Going full hydro and those Artec arms are pricey!

I know a number of folks running the 4wheelsupply arms, with no complaints.
 
I've been fooling around in Pro-E. I'm mildly considering doing something like this and using my 8274 winch. I will probably just keep what I've got installed for now though.

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I like the shackle set up - I did one like that back in the day on a previous rig. Let the crossmember keep the shackle from inverting, keep ride height lower and clearance higher. Might need to notch the frame for drag link clearance (as long as you clear everything else as well).
 
I dig it! You want to model mine up for me next? I've considered trying to model my frame and axles so I can get some general idea of what I want to do with my suspension, but time is the thing that escapes me....maybe I'll have to start doing that during lunch breaks. Food for thought :smokin:
 
I like the shackle set up - I did one like that back in the day on a previous rig. Let the crossmember keep the shackle from inverting, keep ride height lower and clearance higher. Might need to notch the frame for drag link clearance (as long as you clear everything else as well).

Thanks. I'm figuring I will have to cut a section out of the frame for the drag link at full bump.
 
I dig it! You want to model mine up for me next? I've considered trying to model my frame and axles so I can get some general idea of what I want to do with my suspension, but time is the thing that escapes me....maybe I'll have to start doing that during lunch breaks. Food for thought :smokin:

I modeled mine up during boring meetings, lol.
 
I modeled mine up during boring meetings, lol.
Brilliant! I've got quite a number of those, to all of which I bring my laptop... You, sir, are pure genius. :beer:
 
I removed the front axle this morning.

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I removed the rear axle and bumperette things this morning. I'm going to cut the crazy long shackles down to stock length and bolt up the ton axles just to get a baseline.

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I'm going to cut the crazy long shackles down to stock length and bolt up the ton axles

"Just something to tool around Uwharrie in"
:lol:
 
"Just something to tool around Uwharrie in"
:lol:

I thought everybody knew that you had to have tons and 40" tires to go to Uwharrie, LOL?





I really wanted to wheel it stock for a while, just for some quick fun and to learn the vehicle. I even briefly considered buying an 8.8 or C8.25 or something, but it just didn't make sense with having a D60 and 14 bolt already geared and locked sitting in my shed from an old project.
 
I bolted up the axles this morning. I drilled another set of holes in the shackles at the stock 4" spacing. I bolted up the set of 245 rollers that i have. I've been hem and hawing around about buying wheels and tires, but it is time to shit or get off the pot. This is stock springs, stock shackle length, and stock spring hanger location.

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