05 Escape wheel bearing

[GotWood]

I changed the front wheel bearings pin the BIL car a couple month's ago(5k mi or so). They are now shot. We had a simular problem on his F150 a couple years ago. That problem turned we needed to change the entire rotor assembly per FSM. Pressing the new bearings into the old rotor stretched them.

Could this be the same issue but instead of pressing the bearing into the rotor its in the steering knuckle?

Advance doesn't list the entire assembly but Amazon does.

 

[Fabrik8]

The knuckle and hub should be able to be reused if there is nothing wrong with them, if it's the same as most other FWD cars with press-in wheel bearings. Looking at RockAuto, that's a very standard bearing and hub design, and should be able to be reused with no issues.

What brand bearing did you buy, was it a sealed bearing (did it come filled with grease, etc), did you replace all of the seals, did you use a new axle nut, and did you torque the axle nut to required spec with a torque wrench?
The axle nut torque is very, very important for that type of wheel bearing, as the axle nut torque is what sets the bearing preload (they're dual tapered roller bearings, with a common outer race and a split inner race that sets the preload). Improper torque means improper preload, and the bearings can destroy themselves very quickly. This is not like a bolt-on unit bearing where the preload is already set and the axle nut doesn't perform that function.

Also it's a staked axle nut, so bad idea to reuse the nut. If that nut backs off, there goes your bearing preload.

 

[a_kelley]

Definitely do not tighten axle nuts with an impact.. ask how I know.

 

[a_kelley]

And if they are pressed, how you press them in is important.. outer race only unless pressing in the hub then only inner race.

 

[Jeff B]

so how many ugga-uggas did you use?

 

[GotWood]

The knuckle and hub should be able to be reused if there is nothing wrong with them, if it's the same as most other FWD cars with press-in wheel bearings. Looking at RockAuto, that's a very standard bearing and hub design, and should be able to be reused with no issues.

What brand bearing did you buy, was it a sealed bearing (did it come filled with grease, etc), did you replace all of the seals, did you use a new axle nut, and did you torque the axle nut to required spec with a torque wrench?
The axle nut torque is very, very important for that type of wheel bearing, as the axle nut torque is what sets the bearing preload (they're dual tapered roller bearings, with a common outer race and a split inner race that sets the preload). Improper torque means improper preload, and the bearings can destroy themselves very quickly. This is not like a bolt-on unit bearing where the preload is already set and the axle nut doesn't perform that function.

Also it's a staked axle nut, so bad idea to reuse the nut. If that nut backs off, there goes your bearing preload.

All of this! Used the old bearing to push just the right spot, all new bearing and hub and nut, torqued to 300ft/lbs etc.

I haven't taken out apart yet to inspect. When this happened to the F150 the bearing fell out of the rotor, no need to press out.

so how many ugga-uggas did you use?

Ugga-uggas were only used to tighten the lug nuts. Only 4.

 

[Fabrik8]

All of this! Used the old bearing to push just the right spot, all new bearing and hub and nut, torqued to 300ft/lbs etc.

I haven't taken out apart yet to inspect. When this happened to the F150 the bearing fell out of the rotor, no need to press out.


Ugga-uggas were only used to tighten the lug nuts. Only 4.

What brand bearings and hub did you use? I don't suppose that really matters, as even a shitty bearing should last at least 5k miles unless they're shipped with preservative and not proper bearing grease. Those bearings should be pre-filled with grease from the manufacturer, at least if they're a quality replacement like SKF, Timken, Moog, OEM.

Has anything else changed with that assembly, for example are the axles aftermarket?

The fact that both bearings are toast after 5k miles points to something very wrong obviously, either with the parts themselves or something overlooked during the install. I know that's exactly where your head's at right now.