05 F350 new dd/tow pig! *questions*

[Qwk87Coupe]

I have been searching for a while for a 2wd crew cab dually. I looked at 7.3,6.0, and cummins trucks. IMO all had there pros/cons. The Dodge's (that I could afford) didnt have enough cab room, the 7.3s I found with reasonable mileage were priced 5-7k over book value or they had 200k plus. I decided on this 05 F350 6.0 with 57k on the clock. It already has the bulletproof egr delete, new Ford oil cooler & a powermax turbo upgrade. Im already planning on headstuds, antifreeze filter, 4in exhaust and a few more upgrades. For the 6.0 owners is there anything else to watch or for or upgrade?

Few questions..
The rake is killing me, I'd like to lower the rear, or raise the front approx 2in to level it out. Anyone with 2wd duallies "leveled" their truck using either method? Opinions? Also looking to run a taller tire to help offset the 4:10 gears for fuel mileage. I'd like to keep the factory 17in wheels, it has 245/75R17's on it now. Not sure what will fit??

 

[shawn]

Isn't the front suspension TTB? That would rule out a spacer. Is there a block in the rear springs that you could remove?

 

[Qwk87Coupe]

Isn't the front suspension TTB? That would rule out a spacer. Is there a block in the rear springs that you could remove?

The rear doesnt have a block, it has a small plate between the spring pack and overload spring. I dont think it can be removed. I believe the only option for the rear is a drop shackle. I'll have to look at the front to be 100% sure. I was thinking it was ttb with a coil spring I havent checked to see if they make a spacer.

 

[shawn]

Somebody probably makes a spacer, but it needs to include some kind of caster/camber shim to reset the front end alignment. I don't know enough about how those are put together to say exactly how it works... but you can't put a taller spring or spacer on it w/o throwing the front end out of whack.

 

[Qwk87Coupe]

Somebody probably makes a spacer, but it needs to include some kind of caster/camber shim to reset the front end alignment. I don't know enough about how those are put together to say exactly how it works... but you can't put a taller spring or spacer on it w/o throwing the front end out of whack.

Exactly, I think the rear would be the easiest. I def. dont want a horrible ride or have it slammed. It just has to much rake for my taste.

 

[GCncsuHD]

Somebody probably makes a spacer, but it needs to include some kind of caster/camber shim to reset the front end alignment. I don't know enough about how those are put together to say exactly how it works... but you can't put a taller spring or spacer on it w/o throwing the front end out of whack.

The front is coil sprung I Beam, same idea as TTB suspension wise. There are spacers/leveling kits out there but they do require offset BJ bushings to correct the camber, and some trucks require a little grinding on the spindle or I beam for clearance with those offset bushings.

For some reason I was thinking the F350s did have a block in the rear, even on 2wds, but I may be wrong. My F250 did not have a rear block though. The previous owner (Airgas) had added two leaves to each side for extra carrying capacity, it had about 5" of rake. Removing those two leaves brought it down to about 3.5" or so of rake, and I added drop shackles (1" is as much as you can get on the super duties, there are some advertised at 2" but they don't give you the full drop), and clamped the main spring pack to the overload in the front of the pack for a little more drop. Now it has about 2" of rake. You could also look into the DJM front spring hangers, combined with drop shackles you can get 3-5" of drop in the rear.

You could also remove a few leaves for a little drop and a better ride, then go back with helper bags to regain carrying capacity.


This is how it sat when I first bought it, with the bed insert and liftgate removed the rear picked up another couple inches.

After removing the two added leaves from each pack and drop shackles.

As of current, with spring clamps snugged down slightly.

Eventually I want to get the 3" dream beams up front, and fab up a flip kit for about 6-7" drop in the rear, but for a daily beater this will do.

 

[shawn]

<shrug>

I think it looks fine in the photos. If you dont like it, you can always put 5k# in the bed.

 

[GCncsuHD]

I missed the 2nd question about tires, but 235/80R17 should be a direct fit, but will only be 1/2" taller. Next up, would be a 255/80R17, that would be 1.5" taller at 33". It is still narrow enough that you shouldn't have any issues with the duals touching each other, and the front should clear fine even at stock height. The only issue with that size is that it is not a very common size tire. BFG KM2s are the only tire off the top of my head that are made in that size. You could do 285/70R17, that would be about the same diameter and a commonly available size, but you will need spacers between the duals in the rear.

 

[Qwk87Coupe]

Thanks GCncsuHD, I think im going to go with the 235/80r17s when its time. I want to stay with a street tread being a 2wd, and I live off a gravel road and the BFG rugged trails throw rocks horrible. I really like the looks of black steel 19.5s but that route looks pretty expensive.

 

[Kamel]

Since you are in Roanoke (I assume VA), there is a guy at the Ford dealer in Martinsville, that is a 6.0 PS guru. Eric I think. Also, remember, the rake is there for towing.

 

[Ron]

Other things to watch out for?

How crazy you want to go?
FICM will eventually go. Ed at fix repair gives a lifetime warranty for 425 and does amazing things to the way the truck drives without changing cylinder pressure.
Bumped up alternator will keep FICM happie rlonger. And a $45 blue spring will have your injectors last. Lot longer....

Now for the big one..get the ford gold coolant out of the truck NOW...hopefully whomever did the delete and oil cooler already did..if not flush it right and replace with a diesel rated coolant.

 

[BigBody79]

I put a spacer I'm our f350. Made it look good. Alignment shouldn't be a problem. You will need the 4.5 degree alignment bushings

 

[Qwk87Coupe]

Since you are in Roanoke (I assume VA), there is a guy at the Ford dealer in Martinsville, that is a 6.0 PS guru. Eric I think. Also, remember, the rake is there for towing.

Yea Im actually out near Smith Mountain Lake now. Someone else mentioned the guy in Martinsville, I may check with him. When it comes time I'll most likely do the head studs myself.

Other things to watch out for?

How crazy you want to go?
FICM will eventually go. Ed at fix repair gives a lifetime warranty for 425 and does amazing things to the way the truck drives without changing cylinder pressure.
Bumped up alternator will keep FICM happie rlonger. And a $45 blue spring will have your injectors last. Lot longer....

Now for the big one..get the ford gold coolant out of the truck NOW...hopefully whomever did the delete and oil cooler already did..if not flush it right and replace with a diesel rated coolant.

The shop that said they flushed and replaced the antifreeze when they did the oil cooler/ egr delete. I know they mainly work on 6.0's so Im thinking the used the better stuff. I'll double check with them and see. Im going to get the dieselsite antifreeze filter kit soon, so If not I'll do it then. On the oasis it had the FICM replaced at some point. I looked at Eds site it seems like he def. knows his sh*t, looks like something else to put on the list when its head stud time. Not really trying to get crazy with it, just need it to be reliable.

 

[Ron]

I used the performance machine coolnt filter kit.
It comes with new hoes and they are premium silicone with high pressure crimped ins...and $10 cheaper.
Installed it in 15 minutes.

 

[jeepinmatt]

It comes with new hoes and they are premium

Duly noted.

 

[Ron]

Duly noted.

fo shizzle