12 volt to 24 volt output

MR. GADGET

MR. GADGET

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Location
Raleigh NC
To start I'm looking to put 12v outputs on the front and rear of the Dodge tow rig for the warn 8000 multi mount and got to thinking about using the quick connects for the Ready Welder II as 12 volt for light work then when needed hook it up for 24v to for heavy steel.
What I was thinking was to take the 12v truck output (+) hook it to a (-) on a battery setting on the ground (extra battery I carry) and then the (+) from the battery (on the ground) to the welder and the (-) from the truck to the welder to make 24v.
I know it will be 24 v and run the welder but the question is if that will do anything to the truck electric system? It should be 12v at each battery.
Any help.
Jon
 
What you're describing is basically the floating ground system that you'll find on any CUCV. It will work, on paper. I'd be very hesitant about hooking up a system like that on a late-model truck, tho. Way too many sensitive electronic parts that could be damaged.
 
saf-t scissors said:
What you're describing is basically the floating ground system that you'll find on any CUCV. It will work, on paper. I'd be very hesitant about hooking up a system like that on a late-model truck, tho. Way too many sensitive electronic parts that could be damaged.
Click to expand...
Don't think I follow you I thought the CUCV was 24 volt only and just had 2 batterys in series set up. Are you saying that the starter and motor were 24v and all the other stuff was 12 volt heater lights and stuff like that?
J
 
Charging the system

The biggest problem I see is charging the additional battery. In the system you describe, your Alt will/can only charge the first (your normal permanent truck battery) battery, As long as it keeps it's ~14V and the proper amp, no amperage will go to the second battery to charge it. When it drains, it's gone until you manually charge it. If you try to charge the second battery with your alt, you'll more than likely fry something due to any wiring on the second battery seeing 24V
 
MR. GADGET said:
Are you saying that the starter and motor were 24v and all the other stuff was 12 volt heater lights and stuff like that?
J
Click to expand...

That's correct. The starter and the NATO plug in the grille are 24V. The glow plugs themselves were 12V, but they used a resistor pack in series to run on 24V. Everything else was stockish GM 12V stuff on one battery.

The trucks had two alternators, one for each battery.
 
Easiest way. Put disconnects on both batterys. Isolate them completly from your trucks system. When finished, reconnect them for charging.
 
Jon
I can help you with that, and your electric system won't care . Give me a call and we will figure it out. Electronics is my Job :)
 
Chris_M said:
The biggest problem I see is charging the additional battery. In the system you describe, your Alt will/can only charge the first (your normal permanent truck battery) battery, As long as it keeps it's ~14V and the proper amp, no amperage will go to the second battery to charge it. When it drains, it's gone until you manually charge it. If you try to charge the second battery with your alt, you'll more than likely fry something due to any wiring on the second battery seeing 24V
Click to expand...


The truck is a Diesel and has two batterys that charge fine as it is. I'm going to add a temp battery and run it as 24V or another for 36 volt for the real heavy stuff and don't care about charge.
The ready welder can run for a long time and you batterys don't even change or know your running it.
Jon
 
upnover said:
Easiest way. Put disconnects on both batterys. Isolate them completly from your trucks system. When finished, reconnect them for charging.
Click to expand...
Chip it is a 03 diesel and would be a PITA to cut and re do all the wires on both that are in the truck.
I need to get the connectors from you and think I will keep doing like I have been and run off the two trailer batterys and just run the power for the winch on the truck 12 v.
 
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