1986 Samurai

pyranha

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Location
Asheville,NC
I have been working on my Samurai for about 2 months now and this is what I have done so far. Scout D44's 513's Spool Rear, 34" LTB's, YJ springs, Custom shackle reversal in Front stretched about 3" on both ends.
 

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All right! Looks good. Now lets see some action shots!
 
Looks good!

where in asheville are you? i'm out here in candler. I keep seeing people on here from town. we should have a meet & greet
 
Looks good!
where in asheville are you? i'm out here in candler. I keep seeing people on here from town. we should have a meet & greet
X2
Lots of nice rigs out there now. You should bring out to the swamp at friends house to break it in, we always have a ball.
Really nice sami by the way, clean and I really dig the body to axle width. I want a sami damn it... I highly recommend the 6.5 gears, it made all the difference in my buddy's we just did, we're doing rear steer on it now.
 
I live just off Charlotte St. However my Samurai is in Johnson City, TN. I still have work to do on it like a cage, drive shafts, shocks, brakes, and bumpers. I'm hoping to get it done in about another month or so. I would love to get some gears in the t-case, that will have to be down the road.

Hey Jonthan,

I got the hub turning nicely, and the C's where a bitch to turn.
 
Sammy

It's not for sale. I haven't got it done just yet. I need to get pictures of it but I figured out a way to high steer a Scout Dana 44.
 
High Steer

What's your plan?

I took two pieces of 1.25 DOM about 3" long bolted them to the steering arm at the two holes for the drag link and tie rod. the took a piece of .25x3" flat bar and matched the angle from the front piece of DOM all the way back to the back of the steering arm. Then took another piece of
.25x1.25" drilled two hole to match the holes in the DOM and match the angle on steering arm as well. Then I welded it all up to the steering arm. It works really well. I used 1.25 DOM for the Drag Link and Tie Rod. with .75 Hiems Joints and High Misalign spacers. I bolted the Drag Link to the back hole in the steering arm over the spring. I bolted the tie rod in the front hole under the spring. I will get pictrues the next time I go home and post them up.
 
I hope this is a trail only vehicle. I've always read that welding to the knuckles is a big no-no. They're cast iron (not cast steel like the pumpkin & Cs).

To keep the 5 on 5.5 wheel pattern there are a few options. The IH guys usually opt for a set of 74/75 full size IH truck knuckles and get them milled/drilled/tapped and use highsteer arms. Partsmike sells everything for around $700. IHONLY also sells a kit, similar price. Very expensive to do it the "correct" way.

There's some good info here too
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

I'd like to see your pics.
 
Welding Cast Iron is ok If you know what your doing. As long as you use a MG 289, 281, or 750 welding rod or a High Nickel content Mig wire you will be fine. Also there are methods to which you can weld Cast Iron... One is heating the cast to no more then 1400 degrees welding it and letting it cool slowly. Two is keeping the cast cool while you weld it e.g. lower temp. on the welder to ensure your metal doesn’t get over 1400 degrees where you are welding. If it get to hot and you haven’t heated your cast with a torch before you weld it will crack around the weld. My brother is a professional welder and custom fabricator, he welded it for me. Also, I'm not relying on the welds to keep the set-up on the knuckle I'm relying on the grade 8 thru bolt for the main structural support. The weld on the knuckle is just icing on the cake.

I will post pictures the next time I go back to TN to work on it.

Drew
 
High Steer Scout D 44

Here is my High steer set up for my Scout D 44.
 

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4

The last two pictures are of my gas tank set-up till I get my propane kit.
 

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