2002 TuRD

[gslander]

Wonder if the driveshaft out of phase destroyed the old one

Nah. Its a factory Toyota rubber mount that I bought new in 2008, it sat in a box in my garage until 2019 when I finally installed it, and it's been seeing 4,000 ft lbs of torque in double low since then, so it was just roached due to old age and abuse.

 

[gslander]

Hooked up my remote filter for the steering and ditched all the barb fittings in the system. My wife came out to start the truck while I dumped in fluid, then BAM the seal blew out on the filter, gay. I probably didn't tighten it down enough, so fired up Amazon and ordered one up.

Then I decided to drop the airbumps, that went nice and easy. The fluid in one of them was black and stank, the other one wasn't bad. I'm going to shorten them down to 1" of travel, and do the same in the rear one day after work this week.

I'm tentatively signed up for a 24hr rally in April 2027, I'll for sure sign up next month. @Rnuovrcj5 build thread and my friends running that 1000 rally convinced me to try it lol.

 

[gslander]

Well f the steering filter, the new filter blew out also, so I'll listen to the truck and not install one.

Tore down the airbumps, now I'm waiting on parts. I knicked a shaft and tore up a seal head. I have another shaft that's bad so put in an order at poly performance that probably won't be here until after the holiday.

Leave it up to me to rust out the inside of a sealed system lol!!

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Did you have the filter on the return side of the system?

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Did you have the filter on the return side of the system?

Yes per his post in another thread. But that filter should hold pressure, an oil filter will easily hold 80psi. He should be near 100 psi on the high pressure side, so it’s likely overheating and the boiling fluid is over pressurizing

 

[gslander]

Yes per his post in another thread. But that filter should hold pressure, an oil filter will easily hold 80psi. He should be near 100 psi on the high pressure side, so it’s likely overheating and the boiling fluid is over pressurizing

@paradisePWoffrd This is on initial startup, runs for a few seconds then it blows when I assume it sees an air slug hit the filter housing. Heat should not be an issue at all. Even filling the filter and housing up it still blew. Either way I removed it since that will be in the back of my mind whenever I'm driving, especially if I have to trail repair the steering system for whatever reason. The hoses were on the correct inlet of the housing as well. After pulling everything off and hooking it up the old way, the steering system fully bled in a few mins like it normally did.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

@paradisePWoffrd This is on initial startup, runs for a few seconds then it blows when I assume it sees an air slug hit the filter housing. Heat should not be an issue at all. Even filling the filter and housing up it still blew. Either way I removed it since that will be in the back of my mind whenever I'm driving, especially if I have to trail repair the steering system for whatever reason. The hoses were on the correct inlet of the housing as well. After pull everything off and hooking it up the old way, the steering system fully bled in a few mins like it normally did.

That is wild. Shouldnt have been an issue, but I am with you on ditching it.

 

[gslander]

That is wild. Shouldnt have been an issue, but I am with you on ditching it.

Yea man I'm stumped.

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Get a magnafine it installs in 5 minutes, I wonder if you had it plumbed lower than the tank if you would have that issue, the caps are vented on the power steering reservoirs

 

[gslander]

Get a magnafine it installs in 5 minutes, I wonder if you had it plumbed lower than the tank if you would have that issue, the caps are vented on the power steering reservoirs

Yea, I don't know. It would have to bleed back through the steering box and pump to get back to the res, it actually sits kind of below the res. I filled the res up with fluid and let it sit for a week thinking along the same lines, still popped. Once I get everything else sorted on the truck, I'll take this housing apart and see what's going on with it. It was start truck, fluid gets sucked down, I start pouring fluid in and bam! In about as long as it took to read that.

 

[frankenyoter]

Sure you did this but did you cycle the steering a bunch with the engine off? Run it for a few seconds, rest and repeat? I’m no pro by any means but that’s been my process.

 

[gslander]

Sure you did this but did you cycle the steering a bunch with the engine off? Run it for a few seconds, rest and repeat? I’m no pro by any means but that’s been my process.

I have one of the fancy radial dynamics self bleeding reservoirs, so it's normally fire it up, fill it up after the fluid level drops, and watch the bubbles for a few mins, turn the wheels a few times, see if it needs more fluid and shut it down, done in about 5-10mins. I figured filling the housing and filter up with the fluid syringe would work, I guess not. Best it blowing up in my garage than at WOT on the trail and burning my truck down!

 

[gslander]

Took the day off and decided to sweat my sack off for a few hours in the garage this morning. Swapped my shocks f/r because the rears are valved stiffer than the front, well I didn't realize that I had non short body shocks in the front lol. The front shock is on the left:

I thought awesome, I always wanted shorter shocks in the front, however here is what the rear looks like with the fronts in the back:

Not great. I'll probably take it for a rip and see how it feels and swap them back. I would have done it today, but my stupid nitrogen fill setup leaks like crazy and drained a 10lb bottle doing 3.5 shocks (new parts on the way from Amazon). So I had to get a new bottle, some sub station II and passed out on the couch for a few hours and now it's like 690 degrees in the garage so I'll stay inside lol.

 

[gslander]

Took it for a drive today around the back roads of Bethlehem and I think I like the stiffer shocks in front. Trucks rides a lot better IMO, I don't know if that's in my head, the valving difference or the fact they actually have the factory spec of nitrogen in them (about 100psi low all around) or all the above. Im going to drive it to work and maybe take it up nc105 one day to see how it feels, if I like it I'll just swap the valving off the "rears" to the front and vice versa when I rebuild the shocks this winter.

Mo betta uptravel before hitting the bumps which will make trail riding and some street driving much more pleasant.

Ignore my bent mainleaf

Waiting on a shaft from poly performance for the rear bumps because my dumbass ordered the wrong one and I should be good to go with those. I should be ready for fall and winter wheeling once I get all this wrapped up.

 

[gslander]

Rebuilt 2 of my shocks today, first one took a while as expected, and making my vice stand took a bit, mostly f'ing around with my welder.

I knew my redneck diff rebuild stand would come in handy:

The res fittings are 1/8npt. A ton of trial and error, and despite the bilstein 7100 being around since the dawn of time, there is like not info online about it.

Added some 90s so they fit better. I also swapped the valving between the f/r shocks, hopefully I didn't mess that up lol.

Question, I set the IFP depth 1" too shallow on one of the shocks, do I have to fix that? Shock compresses fine by hand without any pressure in it, but the internet says I run the risk of blowing the cap off the res. Other than that, I broke both shreaders using the tool to get the end cap off so that was cool.

Overall an easy project, I would never pay someone to do that lol.