22re EGR / Air injection deletion

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
'89 4Runner, 22re (fuel injected). I am having trouble with a rough idle and vacuum / valvetrain pressure problems and want to just get back to somple basics to make it easier to diagnose and adjust. Not a vehicle / situation requiring emissions controls.
I've seen enough info on how to remove the EGR and air injection system on teh exhaust, and a kit like this:
209yota1.com

EGR Delete Plate with Air Injection Kit 1985-1995 EFI 22RE - Yota1 Performance, Inc.

EGR Delete Plates with Air Injection Kit 1985-1995 EFI 22RE
209yota1.com 209yota1.com

But there are also block-off plates for the "EGR Cooler" on the back of the cylinder head. But I can't quite wrap mh ehad around that, and if it is necessary to also switch out? LCE includes it as part of their kit, but nobody else does. What does that do, and why would I need to also block it off vs just leaving alone?
 
I’d say leave the cylinder head part alone and just close the loop for coolant. Every one of those I have ever touched and broken bolts off in the head which would require removing the head or the motor and given the last issue you had with rust (front a-arm) I’d just go a”head” and skip that ass pain.
 
skyhighZJ said:
I’d say leave the cylinder head part alone and just close the loop for coolant. Every one of those I have ever touched and broken bolts off in the head which would require removing the head or the motor and given the last issue you had with rust (front a-arm) I’d just go a”head” and skip that ass pain.
Click to expand...
Well that was the other truck, which is much worse in the rust dept, but I hear ya 100%.
Can you elaborate on closing the loop for coolant? In all the EGR delete posts and videos, nobody talks about coolant lines, yet there is the "EGR cooler plate" thing, which I have no idea what it does or how it is relate to this... hence my confusion. I'm 100% ok w/ leaving dormant parts in place for the sake of minimizing my effort and probability of breaking a rusty bolt.
 
From what I've read deleting egr decreases fuel mileage and overall drivability, I'd leave that. Not sure on the air injection.
 
grapehead said:
From what I've read deleting egr decreases fuel mileage and overall drivability, I'd leave that. Not sure on the air injection.
Click to expand...
Vehicle will move about 500 miles a year. Gas mileage is just not a concern unless it's a 30% hit.
 
As for re routing the egr from the back of the cyl head it’s as simple as blocking the coolant parts that run too and from. I’m not too familiar as I’ve always had the engine out and did the full block off to include the under manifold/ back of the head all at the same time before resetting the motor. I will say there are eleventy- billion u-tube videos to gain another doctorates in the field lol.
 
Bringing this back.
I've disconnected the EGR and the 4 bazillion vacuum lines.
Removing the air injection is a huge pain in the @#$& because the pump is under the intake and the hard steel tube connector pipe that wraps around the back of the head doesn't have room to get back out that I can see.

1 - is there some trick to working that thing over the valve cover against the firewall?
2 - may just leave it intact. What happens if I just leave it connected but without the vacuum to it? Is there even an electrical connection or feedback from it?

Many years ago I swapped my battery and am and added a supra afm. At the time I ditched the air pump coconut and just put an open filter in its place. Never any problems with that.
 
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