22RE Fuel and Brake Questions

aikenis02

New Member
Joined
May 27, 2006
Location
Raleigh
I have an 86 Toyota Ext. Cab Truck with a 22RE with 155k. It runs but then stops after about 15 seconds. I changed the fuel pump relay and fuel filter. I hear the fuel pump cut in when the key is in the start position but not in the on position. The truck will continue to run if I bump the key to start which tells me the fuel pump is not continuing to run--I think. Any thoughts?

Brakes. My pedal was going straight to the floor with the truck on and off. I replaced the master cylinder and brake booster. Now the pedal has pressure with the truck off but not so much when the truck was running. I bled the master cylinder and brakes all the way around. What should I do now?

If anyone is around Raleigh and wouldn't mind lending a helping hand that would be awesome. I bought this project hoping to make a daily driver out of it and do some wheeling here and there. I have some wiring issues with the turn signals and reverse lights to.
 
Check the rubber elbow at the throttle body, and the boot at the AFM for cracks /air leaks. If the air coming thru the AFM isn't moving fast enough, the flapper door will not stay open and this can shut off the fuelpump.

There is a plug you can jumper that will run the fuel pump when key is in on position. Drivers side fender there may be three plugs, one large round, one small round and a 2wire rectangular plug, jumper the rectangular plug (don't let wires ground out)

If those plugs are not there, look over by fuse box on pass side fender, will be a black box that says "diagnostic" on the lid, open it up and there will be a pin out schematic, jumper B+ and FP terminals.

depends on production date as to which you will have. Late 85-early 86 will have plugs on drivers side.

As for the brakes, check your rear shoes, if they are worn or out of adjustment, you can bleed all day and never get a pedal,
check that the parking brake bell cranks move freely at the backing plate. Working the parking brake is what adjustes the rear brakes, if they don't move, you loose adjustment. ( manual adjustment is possible by pulling the knock out plugs and turning the adjusters with a brake spoon of small screwdriver)

Valuble link below, read ALL info, very helpful
http://www.4crawler.com/4Runner.shtml
 
Well. I have figured out that something is causing my Circuit Open relay to short out. That is my fuel problem.

Brakes are still an issue. My rear brakes are good--shoes, wheel cylinders etc. My calipers appear to be working alright. The master cylinder is brand new. What else?
 
Check over the rear end and you should see a brake valve on the right side of the truck. Try taking off the position arm from the rear end and pushing up toward the bed and then bleeding that valve. there is a bleeder screw on the top of it and air wilkl get trapped in there and not make it to the rear wheel cylinders. Hope this works :)
 
cut the rod, wire the remainder in the up position.

if you have a lift and the rod is still connected to the axle, you are gettting very little brake pressure to the rear.

a replacment is cost prohibitive, and using an after market will make you have to do a lot of extra plumbing you may not have the tools for.

Try cutting the rod first, then go from there
 
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