22RE help

BrianGreen

BrianGreen

SSG Brian Green
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Location
Kings Mountain
Is the bolt on the front of the crank right hand thread or left. I need to know before I put a cheater bar on it to break it loose. Thanks
 
I'm pretty sure counter clock wise to loosen. I just put a rebuilt 22re in my truck,and the crank pulley bolt was a motha to get loose on the old engine. Dowse it in PB Blaster and let it sit for about 15 min before taking the breaker bar to it.
 
You may not get the breaker bar to move it. I put my breaker bar on the frame rail and tapped the stater to break it free. Not for the weak of heart. But it worked real good. OH and remember to remove the wire from the coil to the distributer so it doenst fire and cause mayhem.
 
DanStew said:
You may not get the breaker bar to move it. I put my breaker bar on the frame rail and tapped the stater to break it free. Not for the weak of heart. But it worked real good. OH and remember to remove the wire from the coil to the distributer so it doenst fire and cause mayhem.
Click to expand...

This IS the suggested method and easiest, recommended to place a piece of plywood infront of the radiator just encase the breaker handle slips, IT WILL take out the radiator ( ask me how I know this )

19mm 6pt socket recommended, 12pt will slip off too easy

for refferance, that bolt os torqued to 116ftlb, but break away when loosening is MUCH higher.
 
nut

The best way, for me, is to put a socket on the nut. Then place the ground cable of a welder on the pulley, place a light spot weld on the socket and screw it out with your fingers. (golved of course). The heat from the current loosens the rust and it will come right out. Works every time for me.
Counter clockwise is the correct way for removal.
 
FWIW, there is also the "rope trick".

Take out an injector. Get a nice CLEAN length of nylon rope, and feed it down into teh hole.. .so that it is filling the chamber a bit. IMPORTANT - leave some of it hanging out, lol.
Now turn the pulley counter clockwise. Due to the rope, the crank will not be able to turn (stops the piston) and the nut wil pop right off when you apply some force (cheater bar or BFH).
Just be sure to take your rope back out before you crank it the 1st time, lol.
 
Actually, I've heard of that, just make sure the cyl you choose is on the compression stroke or you'll bend the valves. Basically it just cushions the piston/head while stopping the crank from turning when you use your breaker bar. (The crank the engine thing is easier though.)
 
Cperry said:
I hope you made that up, that is the most random thing i have ever heard and of course is also the most ridiculous.
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No, didn't make it up, I've used it on two different motors and know others that have done so as well. As mentioned, good idea to check you're on the right stroke so you know the valve is out of the way, but if it's a non-interference engine that dosn't matter anyway.
I agree that the starter-bump and breaker bar method is best, I've done that too... I've also damaged a radiator from over-bumping and pressing a socket into it. Doh!
However that method is only good as long as you have had the forsight to remove this nut BEFORE you are far into the teardown process; many times you already have things off and cranking isn't possible or will spew oil everywhere (e.g. 1/2-way into a timing chain replacement). So the rope trick is an alternate option.
 
I know you said you allready got it off but I have to put in my two cents about how this should be done. I use a chain wrench with an old belt around the pulley, smack the bolt head a few times with a hammer, and breaker bar it lose. This even works on those pesky Honda crank bolts.
 
Im still a bit confused here people you said pull an injector.....


im guessing you mean pull a plug, then the rope is wedged between the piston and the valve, Ya its certiantly a good idea to make sure the valves are closed. And 22's are interference motors.
 
Cperry said:
Im still a bit confused here people you said pull an injector.....
im guessing you mean pull a plug, then the rope is wedged between the piston and the valve, Ya its certiantly a good idea to make sure the valves are closed. And 22's are interference motors.
Click to expand...

Woops, yeah man, I meant spark plug... going in through the injector hole would take a tiny-ass rope, lol. Go in through the hoel for the spark plug, you have a nice 5/8"-ish hole access into the cylinder chamber.
FWIW, be sure to use CLEAN rope that won't fray, not some nsaty POS twine you have laying around. That could end badly.
 
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