4.0L reman companies ?

MallRated

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Location
apex
So my #6 cylinder has a major issue sounds to me like a rod bearing but my be piston skirt failure but deff major damage and plenty of metal in the pan.

At 160k to me there is no reason to band aid it and I wanna go the reman route so I am confident to drive it everyday if i choose.

My question for y'all is anyone have a place that offers reman that they have used and recommend.
And / Or
A company or person they have used to get an engine and install through.
My last day after 12 years of being a subaru tech is this friday and will no longer have access to a lift. So trying to find a place to take it as I dont have a garage at my house.

I usually do all my work in my dads separate garage but hes not ok with leaving his bass boat outside for 2 - 4 weeks when i complete it on weekends.
 
Promar is the company I went with. It got here fast. And came with a nice crate to send the core back. As for a shop. I do not have a recommendation. I swapped mine at my BIL with his and Adams help.

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Gotcha Ill look into theirs.
I talked to a few buddies one who works for Jeep in cary hes gonna get me a quote on factory reman and a buddy whos got a deal with LKQ remans (apparently they offer 3 year unlimited warranty on theirs) so well see how the cookie crumbles.
 
MallRated said:
Gotcha Ill look into theirs.
I talked to a few buddies one who works for Jeep in cary hes gonna get me a quote on factory reman and a buddy whos got a deal with LKQ remans (apparently they offer 3 year unlimited warranty on theirs) so well see how the cookie crumbles.
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I know it took us 3 weeks I think. Mainly working on weekends to do the swap. I suggest go ahead and swap alternator and starter so they are good to go. I didnt and had to replace them a couple months later.

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Keith1138 said:
o. I didnt and had to replace them a couple months later.
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thanks for the heads up will do. I also just ordered engine gasket kit , water pump, thermostat , and oil pump to change put on either the reman long block or the used engine depending on the route i go. But yes being a auto tech for the past 12 years never leave anything on it swap all sensors and so forth as the others are probably shit.
 
If you button down a straight 4.0 swap is done in 2 full days. Like mentioned have any and all replacement parts on hand. Pull it fully dressed and stab it back in the same way. It’s not a hard swap.
 
Why not rebuild a 4.0 with 160k miles? Has this thing been severely neglected?

I plan to rebuild my 4.0 with 220k miles on it.


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My vote is on just rebuild yours as well. Take it to a machine shop and have it gone through, then dog it for another 200k miles.
 
Whether you rebuild or swap in another rebuilt motor may depend on the amount of wear to the cylinder walls of your motor.

If it has a lot of wear, then it may require going too far overbore to clean up the cylinders. Just a heads up.

The amount of ridge and out of round will determine this. Sometimes it’s easier/cheaper to start with a completely different block to rebuild.

I’d rather have a rebuilt motor that I know what parts are being used vs buying a rebuilt long block with unknown parts installed.

It equals more down time for the jeep, but it equates to know what parts were used in the rebuild.
 
Thanks after doing a bunch of research ended up going thru my buddy whos a shop foreman at another dealership. He got me his discount and picked up a Reman 4.0L brand new rebuild with 3 year unlimited warranty for $1800 (+core and +tax) That includes delivery to his shop at his house and core pickup.

It should arrive by this weekend or first of the week. I plan to do it all the following weekend in his shop at his house. We are gonna tag team it and with 20 plus years together dealership experience i plan to flat rate the hell outta it and have it pulled and the new one put in and running the same day.

Pictures of it all will be added to my build thread following the whole thing.

Thank you again to all those who commented and gave ideas, didnt realize i would have so many old friends on facebook who would jump to lend a hand once i posted about the negative turn of events.
My only reason for not rebuilding is simple time to get it to a dependable point like i want to drive it all up through overland trails with stops on the way from georgia to tenn, to nc, to virginia without worry. In order to get it to that point its tear down, replace rod bearings, mains, oil pump, pistons (side skirt issues known in oem), and do a full head job when im in there. My goal in my head is firm and have my birthday Oct 16th be its maiden voyage.
 
I've done xj 4.0 motor swaps by myself inside 6-8 hours, including swapping everything over except oil pan. I threw a rod in my xj at lunch (wrist pin froze up, not even a 1/4 mile from the shop), got one from a yard , swapped it in starting at 5:30, and drove it home about 11:30. That was the second motor installed in that jeep in a week.

So it's very doable to knock out in a day.
 
4.0s are easy to swap. Takes 2 people who have done a couple a day of just working on it, not balls to the wall like /\
 
Pro tip #4740

Pull motor/trans/tc in one piece instead of just the motor. Much quicker and simple.
 
a_kelley said:
Alt pro tip #4740:
Drop x member, remove upper bell bolts, temp install with two bolts, then do reverse on install. I find that easier than the above.
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But then your laying under the jeep and pulling the starter and torque converter bolts then lining it all up for reassembly. Pulling the whole unit allows for easy disassembly/assembly and you can clean up the trans/tc and change the seals while standing at the bench drinking beer. It's harder to drink beer while laying under the jeep.
 
GotWood said:
But then your laying under the jeep and pulling the starter and torque converter bolts then lining it all up for reassembly. Pulling the whole unit allows for easy disassembly/assembly and you can clean up the trans/tc and change the seals while standing at the bench drinking beer. It's harder to drink beer while laying under the jeep.
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I get the starter and TC from the top/front.. to each their own.
 
Yes to each their own. Due to part of my trans and transfer case being above my long arm skid and mounts i will be leaving them in the car. I will most likely do it how i do vehicles at work. get everything but top bell housing bolts loose, then lower the lift till the transmission bell housing rests on a jackstand with wood to support it then pull just the engine.... just my plans might change once im in there. the wood stabilizes the trans when rocking the the engine out.

If anyone else has tricks they have done I am never to proud to try something that someone else has found easier.

My goal is get up at 6 have it loaded on the trailer by 7, at his house at 8am and the new one running by lunch and towed home by 5 after test drive and buttoning it all back up/topping off fluids.
 
You should be good. I recommend removing the mounts completely when you go to pull the motor out. Sounds like you got it in the bag though.
 
The 2 top bellhouse bolts are E20 i believe. That always screws with people the first time. I replace them with standard bolts.
 
I can piss farther then all 3 of you:burnout:
 
GotWood said:
The 2 top bellhouse bolts are E20 i believe. That always screws with people the first time. I replace them with standard bolts.
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E12. I leave them, easier to get the small socket on there than the full size. 1/4" 6pt is a close fit, but in sure the professionals we are talking with have e-torx sockets. :smokin:

14&15mm starter bolts (13&8mm electrical)
15mm xmember
16mm main bell
14mm(?) Upper side bell
E12 top bell
13mm inspection cover bolts
15mm converter bolts
18mm mount through bolts
15mm mount to body bolts/nuts
13mm dipstick to bell & one under intake from bell cover to bell
14/15 mm Exhaust to down pipe - they can be pressed out (ball joint press does great) and replaced with through bolts if they break

I usually remove the harness and zip tie out of the way. If the injector connectors use the metal clips, I remove the rail with them all connected and position out of the way.

Hope that helps you out a little.. it's all from memory so don't blame me too much, it's been a few months since I swapped one.
 
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