4.stupid

hammer11b

hammer11b

is 2020 over yet?
Joined
Aug 19, 2020
Location
charlotte
Greetings all, been gone from yall for a bit. Buisness is good lol.

So, looking to regear my 06 ram 3500 (suck-o-matic) from the factory 3.73 to something with a bit more teeth. I'm hearing 3 numbers from a bunch of different ppl. 4.10, 4.30(ish), and 4.56.

I got 35" toyo m/t, 3" lift, and I NEVER tow anything. This truck is my little red corvette that gets babied. My end goal in changing the gears is returning the truck to OEM engine speed. I.e best possible mpg.
No I don't know current rpm at 60mph bc my cheap ass hasn't fixed the tachometer since I bought the fucker.

Tate @Randys ring and pinion says 4.56 bc tire size and the lift adds aero drag. Bit would put the engine around 2250 @60mph. To me that sounds high for a 5.9 cummins. Pls hlp

Next on the agenda would be, who wants to help install? :) lol srsly. Installation is expensive.

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
hammer11b said:
Greetings all, been gone from yall for a bit. Buisness is good lol.

So, looking to regear my 06 ram 3500 (suck-o-matic) from the factory 3.73 to something with a bit more teeth. I'm hearing 3 numbers from a bunch of different ppl. 4.10, 4.30(ish), and 4.56.

I got 35" toyo m/t, 3" lift, and I NEVER tow anything. This truck is my little red corvette that gets babied. My end goal in changing the gears is returning the truck to OEM engine speed. I.e best possible mpg.
No I don't know current ram at 60 bc my cheap ass hasn't fixed the tachometer since I bought the fucker.

Tate @Randys ring and pinion says 4.56 bc tire size and the lift adds aero drag. Bit would put the engine around 2250 @60mph. To me that sounds high for a 5.9 cummins. Pls hlp

Next on the agenda would be, who wants to help install? :) lol srsly. Installation is expensive.

Thanks in advance.
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Stock tires on my 2012 F250 were something like 33" tall, and with 3.31 gears it had plenty of power, and could easily knock down 18-20mpg.. Current truck has a 6.7 Cummins and 4.88's and turns nearly 3000rpm at highway speeds, gets 13mpg. If I were choosing the gearing I would go with 3.73 or maybe 4.10. Theres no shortage of power, just need to drop the highway rpms. You want that engine to be running about 1500-1700rpms at highway speeds.
 
Ok. So. Tach/rpm are a complete fail. The guage does not function. I have NO way of measuring rpm's.

I never ever ever tow. Its basically an oversized grocery getter that occasionally gets to go play in the rocks and mud and dragstrip.

I'm gonna stay on 35" tires.

I dont understand how a tuner will change my engine rpms/mpg at 60mph without changing gears. Pls explain.
Gps speed app cannot read engine rpm's. Pls advise.

I want to regear the truck to return it to oem mpg. It came with 3.73 gears.

Yes its an automatic.

I said a lot of this in my initial post. (Confused)

Thanks for the responses.

P.s. I am aware its a diesel and has plenty of power to deal with the added stress. Thats not how I roll. The trans is 100% oem and hasn't puked up its guts yet. That's next. (Firepunk comp 1) the 48re isn't a happy camper with added stress of which I am trying to reduce by changing gears. But if I go too high, 4.56 and up, then I'll fuck up my mpg and just add stress to the damn engine. Need to find the sweet spot.

Shes mostly highway at 65mph with about 30% hard city driving
 
Gonna have to find some cheap ass way to measure rpm before I order this bullshit... :/
 
hammer11b said:
Ok. So. Tach/rpm are a complete fail. The guage does not function. I have NO way of measuring rpm's.

I never ever ever tow. Its basically an oversized grocery getter that occasionally gets to go play in the rocks and mud and dragstrip.

I'm gonna stay on 35" tires.

I dont understand how a tuner will change my engine rpms/mpg at 60mph without changing gears. Pls explain.
Gps speed app cannot read engine rpm's. Pls advise.

I want to regear the truck to return it to oem mpg. It came with 3.73 gears.

Yes its an automatic.

I said a lot of this in my initial post. (Confused)

Thanks for the responses.

P.s. I am aware its a diesel and has plenty of power to deal with the added stress. Thats not how I roll. The trans is 100% oem and hasn't puked up its guts yet. That's next. (Firepunk comp 1) the 48re isn't a happy camper with added stress of which I am trying to reduce by changing gears. But if I go too high, 4.56 and up, then I'll fuck up my mpg and just add stress to the damn engine. Need to find the sweet spot.

Shes mostly highway at 65mph with about 30% hard city driving
Click to expand...

Very common issue, you can send the cluster out for repair. Should be a couple hundo to fix iirc.

Re-gearing will likely not restore mpg's, just restore a bit of lost power. Not sure what mileage you're getting now but if it's in the mid-teens you likely wont see any gains at all.

Jody Treadway said:
4.10 if you don't tow.
4.56 if you do tow.
Or, just leave it alone and spend the money on a better converter and valve body assuming you have a 48RE. They will make a huge difference themselves.
Click to expand...

This
 
hammer11b said:
Gonna have to find some cheap ass way to measure rpm before I order this bullshit... :/
Click to expand...
Its an easy fix, pull cluster, Re flow the solder joints and then don't over tighten the screws in the housing around the tach. I have fixed at least 6 like this, they over tighten the screws from the factory and it flexes the circuit board.
 
83oldyoda4x4 said:
Its an easy fix, pull cluster, Re flow the solder joints and then don't over tighten the screws in the housing around the tach. I have fixed at least 6 like this, they over tighten the screws from the factory and it flexes the circuit board.
Click to expand...
Don't suppose I could hire you to do it? My last name may be shock but I am a stupid monkey with electronicalicity.

Its not just,, wtf why is this bold,, anyway (ignore stupid poster smfh).

its not just mpg, I miss the acceleration as well.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Smarty touch and be done
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I think he's more concerned with the potential grenade

hammer11b said:
P.s. I am aware its a diesel and has plenty of power to deal with the added stress. Thats not how I roll. The trans is 100% oem and hasn't puked up its guts yet.........stress of which I am trying to reduce by changing gears.
Click to expand...
 
Gonna do the smarty jr AFTER I do the gears and the trans. The engine bay is 100%oem with only 95k on the clock.
 
hammer11b said:
Don't suppose I could hire you to do it? My last name may be shock but I am a stupid monkey with electronicalicity.
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I'm not an expert with circuit boards. What i would try is just take the screws out of the cluster and see if that fixes it. Its mainly bc the board is in a bind. But by heating up each connection slightly it may make a better connection. If it has to have a chip or module replaced thats over my head. But i will say that hasn't been the case on the ones i have seen.

hammer11b said:
Gonna do the smarty jr AFTER I do the gears and the trans. The engine bay is 100%oem with only 95k on the clock.
Click to expand...
If your going to build the trans, skip smarty and get efi live.
 
You will not be able to regear a 7700 pound 4x4 truck on 35s to return MPG back when it was lower, less rolling resistance and with less rotating mass. It's impossible.
Howver, you can:
restore performance by regearing
restore driveability by modding the auto trans a bit
restore power by adding a tuner

I had an 03 for all intents and purposes, very similar to yours. HO Cummins, 48RE on 35s with 3.73 gearing. Same powertrain as yours. It towed 2 buggies on a 36' GN like a dream to Tellico,Harlan, all over the east coast. In your application, based off what you are wanting, there is no feasible reason to go lower than 4.10 gearing. 4.56 will be entirely too low.
 
But adding power(fuel) also increases fuel consumption (mpg-) rt? So wouldn't be wiser in the long run big picture to change the gears? Esp if I'm adding big power later?
 
hammer11b said:
But adding power(fuel) also increases fuel consumption (mpg-) rt? So wouldn't be wiser in the long run big picture to change the gears? Esp if I'm adding big power later?
Click to expand...

You don't need gears AND a tune based on what your original post stated. You *may* need either of them (or trans upgrades if anyone mentioned that).
Stacking mods isn't going to benefit you exponentially.
Kindly, do you follow the advice that members are offering? Or are you dead set on re-gearing your truck whether or not it is actually nessecary for your end goal?
 
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