4Runner build up Questions

chasespop

Active Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Clinton
I've gone to pirate and other sites to see which 4runner to build and have some questions.

I would like to buy a runner that is as new as possible with the removeable top. I plan to do a SAS or coil conversion and I really dont want to replace the motor, so I was thinking about the V6 edition.

So should I look for the automatic runner or stay with a stick? I want the auto but I don't know much about the tcase's strength.
Tcase gears/dual cases?

Other build up options or conversions to gm trannies from the toyota motor?

I am basically looking for the year of runner that will give me the most bang for the buck. However, I want auto,stout tranny and dependable driveline when its all done. I may have to swap everything out. But I was hoping to avoid that.
 
You can't find a 3.4 in a runner with a removable top can you? So how does the tcase hold up that's behind the auto?
 
3.0 only in the pop-top Runner... BUT.. Check with Marlin and make sure you can do a dual case or lowgearset with the auto's... That would be a deal-stopper IMO.

The t-cases are pretty strong.. Scott F. is running one (4.7 gears) in his '84 Toy behind a 355 SBC, NV4500, 42's, and 60/70. He did break the 21 spline input shaft after running it for a while when he dumped the clutch in low on pavement.. (no surprise) He's running a 23 spline now, with no problems.

The 3.0 is pretty weak.. It makes about as much power as the 2.7L 4-popper in the Tacoma, but it does run forever.. I have heard of head gasket issues on some though?
 
i have been in your situation before and here is my honest opnion to be helpful.

i had a 92 4runner with the 3.0 and a 5 spd. it immediatly got a SAS. this was a great thing to do. so what ever u get step one SAS.

as far as motor/ tranny goes here is what i have learned. the toy autos for the 3.0 are chain cases so you can not put gears in them or double them. they no good crawler options. you CAN and i went this route. though i would not again. you can purhase the adapter from marlin to got from a 3.0 tranny to a 4cyl gear dirven case. this is nice because u can run 4.7 gears or double causes from them. i have not seen a single toy auto with dual cases based on the autos being very inefficent. so for gearing you are stuck with a 5spd.

motors. do not, and i repeat DO NOT get a 3.0. this was a terriblly underpowered motor for the weight and shit fuel consumption. the 22re is a much superior motor. and with that the w56 transmission is ready for gear cases from the get go. better gas mileage, almost equal power, and reddily avaliable for the gear driven cases makes the 22re fuel injected 4cyl the better option. esp if you are sas'n because ifs 22re trucks are common and cheap.

good luck man if you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
hey i hope this help

84--85 runners had a removable top and solid front axle
some were available with a turbo and very few were available with the v6 in late 85.
the non turbos had a g54 or g52 series tranny in the 84 models and some 85's had a g54 some had a w56. all these had a 21 spline tranny.

the turbo trucks had a r151f tranny with low ratio first gear and a 23 spline t case(very strong combo)

the 86-88 runner were the latest ones with a removable top. the biggest available engine of the day was a 3.0 V6.

the auto tranny's rob a lot of the engines power and have a chain drive t-case from what i understand.
the stick shift ones had a w56 tranny and a 21 spline t case
you'd have to do a sas on the front of these or wheel with ifs.
 
I would stay away from the V6- reasons
1. a bitch to work on, it is all jammed in there, and i mean jammed.
2. more expensive to work on.
3. there is a whole lot of vacuum on these things escpecially the auto's, there is vacuum everywhere, and everything runs off of it, which in turn transfers to vaccum problems.
4. V6 have the chain cases as stated
5. they are refered to as the 3.slows (which i have heard is not true if you know what your doing with them but everyone i have driven is slow.)
6. i heard if you roll them there is a good chance of losing the motor because oil drain past rings one side can't get it out something or another.


my opinion is if your going to get away from the 22RE than just use the body, go chevy 4.3 with a good auto behind it and then you have options for trtansfer cases and such. otherwise get a 4cyl drop duals in it $600, get the new 30 spliners $600, go rears up front, chevy's in the back $250, get some 38's 42's and then beat the crap out of it until it dies and then swap in your auto and bigger motor. i guarantee you will have a capable rig with as little money as possible in it, that starts and runs good everytime.

edit: oh ya and hi-steer, lockers, gears. :D it is going to be expensive no matter what but stick w/ the 4 banger and it will be cheaper.
 
So are the autos just that ineffecient or does the tranny just need a higher stall to get into the power curve. I really like the idea of swapping the motor out later but I would like run what ya brung for the longest time possible.

It seems that by the time I spend the money for stall converters and adapters for gearsets I'm throwing cash away that could've been spent on the swapped motor and tranny in the first place.

This rig will be a daily driver and I'm not as concerned with the motor and tranny as much but if I could save some parts that didn't need swapped then I'd be ahead in the end.

So then the next question I like the simplicity fo springs but if I'm going to make or buy a SAS conversion kit for nearly $1000 including springs why not do the links and coils and be done with it. The money is almost the same.

What are the issues with linking the rear? I've heard the gas tank poses a problem.
 
Theres alot more fab time in a link setup, especialy a good one. And you will end up spending more money. A single "good dom link" should run you 100.00 plus. Thats 400.00 in links alone. Minmium. You can run a 3-link w/ a panhard in the rear, there just a little squirly on the road.
 
Personal opinion?

86 to 88, want more go? Drop in the 3.8 Poncho v6 with the supercharger. Good grunt, better milage than a 4.3 and a bit more compact to boot. Back it with a cable control 700r4 and a adaptor for the Toy gear t-case. The cable controled 700 will give you decent milage and allow you to have a toggle switch lockup control setup. Handy for those meat roasting runs in the muck.

Sas of course with high steer and a redneck ram setup so you dont kill the steering box. Personally, I'd stay with Toy rears out front and 63" chevys in the rear. Plenty of flex and better road manners than the super loose link systems. Not to mention you;ll hacve a lot more :beer: money left.
 
If you wanna stay toyota, supra stragiht six is a great engine and will bolt in to your truck, pretty much.
 
Ratman do you have a list of donor vehicles with the motor tranny setup you described?

Can you save any more cash going with a gm product tcase that would give close to a 4.7 reduction without doubling? If I could do that I could save the adapter money and put it into gears for the gm case
 
didnt some s10 blazers have a 700r4/231 case (chain case, but 4:1's avail)? It would put your diff on the drivers side, but if you're SAS'n anyway, you could just use an 80's waggy d44.

If it was me, I'd get a late 80's runner w/ 22re, SAS, hysteer, longs, rears, chevies, duals, welded rear, aussie front, 36's. seems to be an economical, proven, and kickass setup. maybe open up the exhaust and throw in an RV cam for a little extra grunt.
 
My opinion is to keep it simple. 22RE with the right gearing will take you anywhere on the east coast you want to got.

Sky-Manufacturing just released there new kit with will mate a Toy AUTO to the geardriven T-Cases $550(single/doulbles/gears...whatever you want). Sky and Marlin Sell the adaptor that will mate a gear driven case to the V6 manual tranny if you choose to go that way $3??.

Cheapest build would obviouly be a 22RE with manual. You save by cutting out several adaptors.

If you need any help or advise give us a call.

Everybody has a opinion...just research what you want...and go with it.

www.sky-manufacturing.com
www.marlincrawler.com

Seth
 
chasespop said:
Ratman do you have a list of donor vehicles with the motor tranny setup you described?

Can you save any more cash going with a gm product tcase that would give close to a 4.7 reduction without doubling? If I could do that I could save the adapter money and put it into gears for the gm case
Click to expand...


Any Gran Prix GTP or blown Monte Carlo, Bonne SSE and I think there are a few Buick Regals with 'em too. 3.8 camaro manifolds and make your mounts, dont skrew with the adaptor mounts, they suck. Camaro flywheel and starter. When you mount it, swing it about 2" foward to clear the firewall/heater hoses. The front drive accessorys work well for this, compact and use a eletric fan. There are tuners out there who will set up your ECU for the setup you choose.

The 700 is a early case from any mid 80's rear drive GM truck (fullsize), you can use the later version but, you need a early valve body and cable setup.

If you like changing t-case chains and having less than desirable crawler gears, sure, you can use the GM offerings for a t-case. The adaptor lets you use the tried and true Toy gear set box which has some of the best aftermarket support out there. Plus Toy cases are cheap, 50~100 bucks will get you a used case. One other option would be a dana 300 divorced with twin sticks and a 4:1 gear set but, they are overkill for a toy.

If you want manual, use a 3.8 Camaro mill with the supercharged top end and camaro manifolds. Use a adaptor for the 3.8. Camaro flywheel redrilled for the Toy clutch. (use a centerforce plate and a racing disc) The 52 will take it. I helped a buddy set a 95 5.0 with all the ford stuff into a 93. Passes OBD2 checks and goes like hell. On a stock 52 and toy transfer case. Only thing he has broken in 2 years is a rear u-joint. (on 35's and still ifs) :beer:
 
paulevans76 said:
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If it was me, I'd get a late 80's runner w/ 22re, SAS, hysteer, longs, rears, chevies, duals, welded rear, aussie front, 36's. seems to be an economical, proven, and kickass setup. maybe open up the exhaust and throw in an RV cam for a little extra grunt.
Click to expand...

I agree. If you go 22re w/ auto then you get a reasonably strong case that can be converted later, and if you feel you need more power, then many guys do a 4.3 or also the 7mge straight-6 is great if you wnat to "keep it in the family", just barely fits in there. But honestly as lon gas the gear is okay for yer tires the 4 cyl isn't bad and takes abuse well. As said, avoid the 3.0!

Oh and btw the "latest year" is '89 not 88, they produced that body style until April of '89, when they had an early-release of the 90.
Starting w/ and 84.5 or 85 would be easier b/c it already has SAS, BUT they're pretty hard to find and if not completely trashed tend to go for a pretty penny.
 
and with the 84-85's you have to swap to an IFS steering box anyway, so why not just get an IFS and SAS it. you can sell the IFS junk for a little extra jingle to help out. and with the IFS you get the wider, better rearend ;)
 
these guys seem to have the advice under control, i just saw you were from clinton, i grew up there many moons ago. :huggy:
 
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