78' cj5 questions???

tommy_boync

New Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Location
sanford
:driver: Hey guys was up just bought a Jeep. I was told that this thing has a 300 inline 6 ford motor init but when comepareing parts on ebay the motor in it looks pretty much like a 258 jeep motor Is there enyway to tell a diffrence between the too???
Also another question I have will a ford 8.8 bolt rite up to my rear or will I have to move the perches on the axle??? and if I done this will the back be wider than the front?? thanx everyone :driver:
 
tommy_boync said:
:driver: Hey guys was up just bought a Jeep. I was told that this thing has a 300 inline 6 ford motor init but when comepareing parts on ebay the motor in it looks pretty much like a 258 jeep motor Is there enyway to tell a diffrence between the too???
Also another question I have will a ford 8.8 bolt rite up to my rear or will I have to move the perches on the axle??? and if I done this will the back be wider than the front?? thanx everyone :driver:
As far as the engine is concerned, they do look similar and both use Motorcraft components. Try to find the engine block # and post it here for ID. As far as the 8.8 rear is concerned, I read in JP magazine where an 8.8 from an Explorer with disc brakes will bolt up without moving the spring perches.
 
I will get those numbers tommrow does enyone know the measeure ments on the explorer 8.8??? I am curiuos about this rear end cause i can find all day long and actually have a few laying around. and know where some spare explores are sitting. thanks everyone
 
a 300 ford is a long an large 6cyl., I doubt thats what you have.
it could be a 240 or a 260 ford but i doubt its a 300. the blocks
will be bossed with ford, an the amc blocks will be stamped
232 or 258 next to the waterpump.
 
maverick said:
a 300 ford is a long an large 6cyl., I doubt thats what you have.
it could be a 240 or a 260 ford but i doubt its a 300. the blocks
will be bossed with ford, an the amc blocks will be stamped
232 or 258 next to the waterpump.


why do you doubt? I've seen ford 300 in a CJ.... It fits fine....

as fort eh rear axle, who cares if it's a little wider, wider is bettter. if it's that much wider, grab a wider front axle... the thing you want to watch is the lug pattern. many Ford 8.8's are 4 on 4.5. your cj (if stock) will be 4 on 5.5.....
 
Brent, I know it is early, but his will be 5 on 5.5 :D

Doesn't the Ford motor have the intake and exhaust on the Passenger side?
That would be one way to get a better idea.

Is there a reason you want to throw in an 8.8? Is the axle there not working, or are you looking for a strength upgrade?
What are your plans for the Jeep?
Are we talking 38' fer muddin', or are we talking mall crawler? Somewhere in the middle, maybe some trails?
Let us know what you plan to do with it and we can better help you plan the build.
 
Hey guys was up ok here goes the numbers on the pasenger side of the block reads
e
412 15

Driver side block reads:
2 h
3213867

There is no where that it says ford or amc nor eny other numbers also the headers and intake are on the same side. If this helps eny> I did get a carberator rebuild kit for the single barrel carberatur today and it macthed the jeep but you never know the carb maunal does state that this carb is on a ford 300 motor too and several others as well. As far as my plans for the jeep it will be for my week end worrior Four wheel with the buds and later down the road will probally make it to the mud sling a couple times at the moment I am sanding grinding all the damn rust of it and since the last guy who had it braced everything up and he only spot welded everything together. I am going back over his work and fixing all that. I am probally going to put full widths under this thing in the winter but for now just trying to get it looking decent and fabcating and rust proffing the whole thing to best of my abillity and then get it driving on the road. I know I least got about 3-4 weeks before it will be ready to atleast drive>> I was curious abou the 8.8 cause a have 2-3 laying around and know where to get plenty more. I just want to strenthen the axles to allow the 35's I am going to run on it for now. But I guess I will find out how well the stockers hold up. Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
sry for got to clairfy that the intake and exhauts is on the driver side.
 
here is a pic of the Ford engine.
FFF2004%20056.jpg

I ASSume it is not like this.

Here is the Jeep engine.
ai6.ebayimg.com_01_i_03_87_75_8e_1_b.JPG

I woulndn't take the time to swap axles and lug patterns if you are going full width later on. The stock axle will do okay, but you may want to look into a set of one piece axles. At the minimum, make sure and torque the living hell out of the flange nut.

Post pics as the build increases.
 
That's what I was going to say...they put six cylinders in early mustangs, but never a 300. I'd assume that's a 200. The 240 and 300 are pretty much the same engine but with different strokes, kind of like the 302 and 351w, so they'd look the same. The ford will have the intake and exhaust on the pass. side while the heep wont.

Here's a 300...

afordflaresides.clubfte.com_240300.jpg
 
Braxton, I tried to link the same pic you did and got the same result. :D

I had to find another pic. I know the pic I showed is in a mustang and is not a 300, but they are externally simliar and I was just using the pic for him to have a reference point between the 2.

I think it has been established now that he has a 232/258 amc i-6. :flipoff2:
 
Hey guys thanks for the help I now Know what I got so now I can order that leaking rear main seal. Thanks for the pics they say a million words. You have a good point on the axle swap I will just take my time and not mess with them for now. As soon as I find the camera that hu..........um my sister lost I will get up some pics asap. The rebuilt carb goes back on and the gas tank is coming out. For some funny reason<probally sitting for 2 years> it wil not allow gas to suck though the pump. So I just ran a piece of gas hose in to a 2 litter bottol for temparly getting the motor to run. My neihbor has a sand blasting machince but doesn't know much about it does enyone know what kind of sand to get or were to get it at????
 
mbalbritton said:
why do you doubt? I've seen ford 300 in a CJ.... It fits fine....

as fort eh rear axle, who cares if it's a little wider, wider is bettter. if it's that much wider, grab a wider front axle... the thing you want to watch is the lug pattern. many Ford 8.8's are 4 on 4.5. your cj (if stock) will be 4 on 5.5.....
That's 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5
 
tommy_boync said:
Hey guys thanks for the help I now Know what I got so now I can order that leaking rear main seal. Thanks for the pics they say a million words. You have a good point on the axle swap I will just take my time and not mess with them for now. As soon as I find the camera that hu..........um my sister lost I will get up some pics asap. The rebuilt carb goes back on and the gas tank is coming out. For some funny reason<probally sitting for 2 years> it wil not allow gas to suck though the pump. So I just ran a piece of gas hose in to a 2 litter bottol for temparly getting the motor to run. My neihbor has a sand blasting machince but doesn't know much about it does enyone know what kind of sand to get or were to get it at????
Any medium or fine sand that's dry will work. I usually buy mine from a place here that makes brick and block. They sell it by the bag. Try Lowes.
 
Every Jeep I have ever had that sat a while, I had to replce the fuel pump. Diafram goes bad and fills crankcase full of gas.

I use play sand from sLowes. Cheap and dry.
 
The fuel pump looks pretty new and it pumps good when I change the oil that will be somthing to look for thanks I probally wouldn't have even thought about checking the oil for deposites. But on the other hand I am did word my problem correctly I ment to say that the pump draws fuel but it will not draw thogh the fuel line I am going to drop the tank and blow air though everything. Has enyone had a jeep fuel tank out latly?? What am I too look for as to when I get it out> is it line feed to the bottom or is it a shaft tube that sticks down in it???? Thanks for the info on the sand too>>>>
 
look to replace the filler line and filler vent. MOst often the tank strap bolt is fused with rust and will break, no biggie to fix if you have a welder. Just take a good look at all lines, rubber and metal. Not real expensive to replace it all.
 
Got my blasting media from Northern - $5 a bag.

Buy your neighbor a comsumable kit for the blaster as a thank you...
 
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