78 Kingpin D60 brakes.

ghost

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Location
Hartsville/Camden,SC
So I broke a rotor in Harlan The caliper spring and H key kicked out and the caliper slapped up and down and bent the caliper hanger. I believe this is the rotor I need. It's been so long since this thing was apart I can't remember. Isn't the rotor and hub separate?


DuraGo BR5445 Front Vented Disc Brake Rotor

Doesn't give the stud size and I've seen that there are two rotors one with 9/16 studs. Since my brake caliper hanger is bent I'm looking to replace it too. I'm finding conflicting info. One diagram says it's 2B292 A thread on Pirate says its 1978-1979 Ford Dana 60 Front Caliper Bracket Right Hand Passengers Side 620090 R. Also can anyone confirm that way it is supposed to go together? H bracket on bottom with spring on top of H bracket? Will add a few pictures of the damage.
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This is worth every penny FWIW.
 
This is worth every penny FWIW.
Maybe I should consider that.... then I would have the same caliper front and rear.
 
Daily drove my k5 on tons for a while with that lugnut 4x4 front brake setup. Stock master cylinder and it would lock all 4 up. I used 1/2 ton calipers out back at first but then got some caddy ones. Same thing they will lock up the 39.5s.
 
Daily drove my k5 on tons for a while with that lugnut 4x4 front brake setup. Stock master cylinder and it would lock all 4 up. I used 1/2 ton calipers out back at first but then got some caddy ones. Same thing they will lock up the 39.5s.
I have his rear kit on my 60. I'll probably call and see if there is an option to order that front kit with the e brake calipers and use my current calipers on the rear on the front. That way I get my e brake back that I have been wanting to do.
 
I got the rears off rockauto bc of the better price but I’m also kind of Jewish
 
This is worth every penny FWIW.
I'm going to second this.

When I drug my 78 Ford D60 out of the shed to build my Jeep, I wanted to replace the calipers, and had trouble finding them at the typical Advance, Autozone, and O'riellys. I think I found one side, but not the other. I decided that I didn't want to end up needing a caliper one day at Harlan or something and not be able to find it, so I bought the kit Jody posted.
 
I ran the WFO brackets/2500HD brakes on the one in the 99 Silverado I had. It was nice to have slide off rotors and dual piston calipers. If you're running 16" rims or larger, they'll fit and they stop damn good!

Edit: I will also say that it was nice to have a brake setup from this century that was readily available anywhere AND offered several options for rotor/pad choice.

The LugNut setup is pretty sweet too.
 
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Got the lugnut4x4 kit in late yesterday and came to the shop to put it on today. Looks like the rotors in the kit use a 9/16 stud but my factory set up was 1/2. Looks like I’m in the hunt for stubs.

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Also the rotor seems to be pressed on the back of the hub. Any suggestions?
 
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The studs go through the rotor and into the hub. That's what holds the rotor in place. You just need to get 9/16 stud with the same knurl diameter you currently have.
Probably look at 88 F350 studs for reference
 
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Thanks. Got the rotor off. Needed more ass behind the air hammer.
 
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So O’Reily’s had 5. These are for an 88 F350 does it matter the knurl is in a different position?
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You want the knurl to go into the hub so it holds the rotor in place.
As long as it holds, you're ok. Otherwise, just get a 9/16 version of the 1/2" stud.
 
Ok so just because they are tight in the old rotor and appear loose in the new one with everything together nothing moves.

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On to calipers. The rotor is too close to the bracket and the caliper will not go on. I figure I’ve done something wrong but not sure what. Instructions say knuckle spacer then bracket then spindle. Looks to me like the spacer should be between the bracket and the spindle.
 
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Tore everything apart and moved the spacer and it went in. However the caliper hit the knuckle. So a little bit of grinding and she went in. Now I need to see about a different line. I oreded the 18” but now I see mine was 22”. So need to get his 24” line or see if anything at a local parts house will work.
 
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