81 CJ-7 bone stock. Got $5k to spend.

danattherock

Active Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Location
NC
I have a stock 81 CJ-7 that my folks bought new in 1980. I have owned it for the last 20 years but never had the money to fix her up. Now I have the money, but lack the insights as to fixing her up. The Jeep is in good mechanical condition. Takes 10-12 pumps on the pedal to fire her up, she idles rough for a few minutes, and has lost lots of power over the years. But she is mechanically sound and has no rust.

First thing I have in mind is an engine rebuild. Read where a new ignition/distributor, MC 2100 carb, etc.. would be good to do at the time of the motor rebuild. Any thoughts on this appreciated. Also, any suggestions on reputable shops to do the rebuild. I live in Rockingham but will travel if needed.

Secondly, I want a lift kit and bigger tires. Perhaps a 4" lift that will let me put some 33's under it. Don't know jack about lift kits. I want to keep the ride quality good. Heard lots of folks jack their rides up and have bad steering/handling issues. I want to avoid this. Don't mind spending money for a quality lift, just not sure what that is. Any shops recommended to do this. I have only heard of Galloways.

Lastly, seems many folks upgrade the gears, axles, drive shafts, and brakes when they get the lift kits and big tires. I know nothing of this. Any suggestions on what would be ideal would be appreciated. Again, any shops that do good work?

For my intended usage, I just want this Jeep to be more "beastly". Lots of sentimental value so I don't want to do too much to ruin her stock appearance. I want to get her tough enough where I can take her to Uwharrie on weekends and do some mild/moderate trail riding. Most the time I use her to take my kayak out fishing, or to shoot guns, simple stuff like that. I will try to attach a picture below.

Thanks for any and all thoughts.

Dan

afarm4.static.flickr.com_3351_3204982839_c5f27f0520.jpg
 
Thats a nice looking Jeep. It sure would be a sin to destroy such a nice original, 1-owner Jeep.

I'd use the $$$ to rebuild the engine and carb and fix any other mechanical issues.

Take the rest of the $$$ and buy a beater Jeep to lift and beat around with in the woods
 
I can appreciate those comments. I don't intend to destroy her. She would not look like she does now if I ragged her out. I just want to fix her up some. I know the lift/tires would change the look. But other than that, I want to keep her just like she is as far as looks go. In fact, hoping to rechrome the wheels and use them with the new tires in an effort to maintain her current character.
 
Is the engine using oil now, low power or anything? Oh and is it v8 or 6 cyl? What transmission does it have auto or 4 speed? I would browse the net for a while and look at what other people have done.
 
I should have mentioned that, thanks.

It has a 258 and has lost lots of power. Runs good though. Just weakened over the years. It has the manual 4 speed transmission which works fine. 100 k original miles. I hit the gas 10-12 times then she fires up, idles a little rough for 3-4 minutes, then she is good to go.
 
I would have the 258 rebuilt with a 4.0 l head and the MC2100. I would also add some form of electronic ignition, such as an HEI conversion or a TFI upgrade (search either term in google and you will find out more than you want to know).
Replace the clutch when the engine is out.
As for the lift, just make sure it is from a reputable company and includes things like shocks, longer brakelines, new u-bolts, etc.
With the 4 speed, you can get away with stock gears for now, but I would upgrade the rear axle with one piece shafts.

As for where to get it done, I would say the best place would be your driveway/garage. The knowledge gained will be invaluable and its fun too.
 
Thanks for all the info so far. You guys have been a big help. Trying to educate myself a bit and I have a ways to go. So far, the only things I know that I want to do for sure is...

One piece axle shaft
upgraded U joints
ARB locker
MC 2100 carb
engine rebuild (mild overbore, cam, intake, and headers)
clutch replacement
3.73 gear (I use the Jeep on highway at times)
TFI/HEI upgrade

Still not sure on which lift kit. One question that remains, if I went with a 2.5 inch lift, what size tires could I go with. I am finding some conflicting info. From what I am reading, this may be the safer route to go and would maintain more of the stock appeal my CJ has. Also sounds like it may avoid a long list of possible problems with the higher lift kits. Any thoughts?
 
a 304 with a T5 tranny is real fun and will live happily in that thing if you dont beat on it. cant beat the sound and is real cheap. 2 1/2 lift will get you into 33's unless you want to flex it out real bad. other than that, leave the exterior alone. I ran one like this for years and wish I had it back. I had swapped the 258 for the 304 and LOVED it. not much more power, but I liked it better than the 258.
 
Thanks for the reply Chuck.

I will be keeping the 258. I do want to improve her a bit though.

As for the 2.5" lift allowing 33's, this would be ideal. Any suggestions on what type/brand 2.5" lift kit?
 
look into the larger weber for a carb, it is badazz. I had one before I took out the 258 and would do it again. lots of power for not much $$.
brand of lift- look for a BDS, that was my nicest ride quality. or maybe get a yj lift for it, seem to ride better than the CJ lifts.
 
The 1 piece axles are nice, but not necessary unless you have a rear locker.

I'd stick with the mechanical repairs first then move on to aftermarket stuff like lockers, lift, etc. You'll be surprised how much you can spend on the typical mecanical items. An option would be to buy a reman long block and add some 4.0 heads. That may be the fastest/easiest if you just want something new and don't want to build it.
 
Locker?

I am liking the one piece rear axle shaft. I would like a locker as well. Sounding stupid, but have to ask, is it more common to put the locker on the front, or back? Also, saw the Omix locker which has a cable actuator. Any comparisons with this locker to the ARB?
 
I've never used that locker of the ARB.

Some will say front, some will say to put it in the rear. I think it depends on the use of the vehicle. If its a daily driver and you only do 1 locker right now, most will say the front. However, I had the locker in the rear of my CJ5 and it performed 100x better than without. But, it will require 1 piece shafts. I don't know if I'd go with a locker in the front of a stock CJ with 33" tires. With that being an 81, you have the weaker 5 bolt hub fronts and you'll be asking for more trouble than its worth, IMO
 
I would say the 2.5" with 33" will be a nice ride.

Add a set of rocker guards/with steps to keep the nasty rocks off you.

Put a Warn M8000 winch on the front (Harbor Freight has a good "Jeep Winch Plate" that mounts directly to the front where the tow hooks go. No need for a new bumper.

Winch will get you out of more problems than lockers!! (Lockers just get you INTO trouble, heh!! Without em you won't be nearly as tempted to try Kodak, just take the bypass and enjoy your day on the trails)

If/when you ARE ready for the locker (by the way, you can do everything you will want to do at Uhwarrie withOUT a locker) then since this is a nice/daily type driver, a selectable locker is a pretty good idea.

It will cost more / since you will need to have the gears set on it, but the ability to have it OFF for around town is nice. Not sure if OX or the other selectable guys have an option for you.

At that point, the 1 piece does make sense...and I would put the locker in the rear. Front lockers put a LOT of strain on those ujoints, especially if you are turning.

With a rear locker...if there is something you cannot go over / then WINCH over it or go around.

Spend most of the cash on keeping that thing pure, the engine happy, etc. MC2100 is one of the best purchases you will make...loved it on my 258.

Nice looking CJ bud!
 
Sure appreciate these last few responses. Very helpful.

Anyone want to tell me what axle shafts I should be getting. I hear about one piece rear axles a lot. Makes sense to upgrade that. But what about the front? Is that a worthwhile upgrade as well.

And for lockers, man, they are pricey. Worth the dough for mild/moderate trail riding. Looking to get up in Uwharrie quite a bit. But up above, it sounds like I may get around ure without an ARB just fine. Lots of trails there and I don't intend to ride the most challenging. Any other opinions on the ARB lockers. Needed, or not? It is a big chunk of change.
 
You don't mention what gears you have in there, probably 3.55. You should be OK with 33s and these gears, it might lug a little. With a 4" lift on the narrowtrack axles, it might be a little top heavy. I went that route and did not like it, I swapped to widetrack axles. the axles I found also happened to be 4.10 gears. This was a little to low for decent (I drive fast) highway cruising, so I bumped up to 35"s.

The 2-piece shafts used in the AMC20 rear are prone to failure. People will argue if you keep the big nut tightened, they will be fine, but it is very common, perhaps due to overlooking maintenance on this nut. I spun mine, replaced with another factory set. When I upgraded to widetracks, I rebuilt the rear with Superior one-piece axles.

Up front, the Dana30 will be OK with 33s and mild wheeling. If you really hammer it, the tiny U-joint will break. Once again, I've done that, but it was after I added a granny low tranny (and 35"S). I upgraded to Superior chomoly shafts that use a larger U-joint.

Locker, sure add one in the rear, I love the NoSlip in my rear. Heard people say a Lockright is a little jerky, but i have no firsthand expereince there. I read many reviews and decided to pay the premium for a NoSlip.

And on the engine side, you will be estatic after you ditch the Carter carb and upgrade to Fuel Injection.
 
danattherock said:
And for lockers, man, they are pricey. Worth the dough for mild/moderate trail riding. Looking to get up in Uwharrie quite a bit. But up above, it sounds like I may get around ure without an ARB just fine. Lots of trails there and I don't intend to ride the most challenging. Any other opinions on the ARB lockers. Needed, or not? It is a big chunk of change.
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Don't do it then... your $500+ is MUCH better off spending on a winch instead. (You could also try a Lock Right in the rear at some point, prob cost $250ish and something you can put in yourself...you don't like it, pull it out and sell to someone else)

But you can do everything you want to do at URE with no lockers... I covered every trail there in a stock 72 GMC Jimmy on 32s. Lots of guys covered all those trails in stockers.
 
I think you'll find the 2pc axles may not even hold up to the open rear. Tater smoked a set on the road and that was with 31"s. Luckily for him, the jeeper that stopped to assist him during the last striped hub was Sheldon (OBS, impact, etc)! After that, he put in a set of Superiors...

Simply replacing the front axle joints will go along ways towards strength. Most have NEVER been maintained, much less changed! Even though they're small, there's been a few advances in the metallurgy over the past 27+ years :lol:

If you do find the narrow-tracs "tippy", it's perfectly acceptable to add some moderate (1.5" on each side) wheel spacers to end up with wide-trac width. As Tony says, the 3" overall increase in width is definitely noticeable.

If you do a bunch of asphalt, you could always leave the axle gearing alone (3.54 shouldn't be too bad with 33"s) and go with lower TC gears for a slower low-range.

IMO, skip the Weber (too many "PITA to tune" stories) and go with either the 2100 or FI (Howell or DIY TBI). *ANY* of the above will be night&day better than the BBD/Carter.
 
yes, a winch should be #1 if not #2 on the list of aftermarket upgrades. Even though its not used that much, don't skimp (i.e., off-brand) on it as when you need it, you usually really need it and expect it to work.

Moser makes a nice 1 piece AMC 20 rear axle and does well and is affordable.
Change the front axle joints and with 33" tires, you'll be good.
Lockright makes a nice affordable rear locker
 
These last few replies are very valued. Thanks. I appreciate your input and it is my intention to proceed with caution. Below is what I have in mind...

BD 3" lift kit with 33's on my stock rechromed wheels

Motor rebuild with cam, Clifford intake, headers, MC 2100, and ignition upgrade (TFI/HEI?) Engine bay sanding/painting while the motor is out. All new hoses/belts/etc.. and an upgraded oil pump.

One piece rear axle shaft (44?). New U joints up front.

Other than this, the one thing I am considering is a locker up front. The non selectable type. Sounds like it would be about half the price of the ARB. Revealing how dumb I am again, but the logic in putting a locker on the front is that I don't need a selectable locker (ARB type) since it will be disengaged except for when I am in 4wd. So it only works when I am in 4wd. These type of lockers are less expensive because they are always actuated (but only do work when in 4wd if in the front). If I am following correct, this would not effect handling when I am in 2wd, and cost me less money that the ARB type selectable locker. Is this correct? If so, that may be an option. Assuming this is the case, what brand/type locker would be a good choice up front? And for that matter, should I upgrade the front axle if planning to use a locker on it?
 
You should have an AMC 20 rear axle. They are OK axles, but much more than a 33" or 35" tire and they are not great.

the non selectable lockers are more affordable, especiall the Lock Right. It fits inside your carrier in place of the spider gears and works well for the price. You are correct with the locker in the front. Since you have manual hubs, you can unlock your hubs and put the transfercase in 2WD and the locker will have no affect while you are driving on the road. IMO a locker in the front of a CJ with 33s and bone stock axles and joints is not a good idea. I think you'd be better with it in the rear. The AMC 20 can handle the locker and you won't have any steering issues. If you plan on running a locker in the front, I'd at least use some aftermarket axle shafts, joints, and stub shafts, which will end up costing more $$$
 
danattherock said:
These last few replies are very valued. Thanks. I appreciate your input and it is my intention to proceed with caution. Below is what I have in mind...
BD 3" lift kit with 33's on my stock rechromed wheels
Click to expand...
sounds good. Despite what the tire stores tell ya, 33x12.5 will fit on your stock 7" wheels. Just keep the air pressure a little low, but still expect to see the center tread wear quicker than the edges. Been there done that.
Motor rebuild with cam, Clifford intake, headers, MC 2100, and ignition upgrade (TFI/HEI?) Engine bay sanding/painting while the motor is out. All new hoses/belts/etc.. and an upgraded oil pump.
Click to expand...
sounds good again, although I would probably skip the Clifford intake and just use the stock one, we're not building a racecar here. The header is fine, people may say you lose low-end torque over an exhaust manifold, but the header is nice and simple. I had a Hedman 2-piece header, now I have a Borla. The Borla is worth the extra coin IMHO.
One piece rear axle shaft (44?).
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Careful, your noobie is showing :lol:. Your rearend is an AMC Model20, not a Dana44. You'll be keeping the AMC20, just replacing the factory 2 piece shafts (hub bolted/keyed to the shaft) to a one piece (hub portion is forged from the same piece of steel as the shaft).
New U joints up front.
Other than this, the one thing I am considering is a locker up front. The non selectable type. Sounds like it would be about half the price of the ARB. Revealing how dumb I am again, but the logic in putting a locker on the front is that I don't need a selectable locker (ARB type) since it will be disengaged except for when I am in 4wd. So it only works when I am in 4wd. These type of lockers are less expensive because they are always actuated (but only do work when in 4wd if in the front). If I am following correct, this would not effect handling when I am in 2wd, and cost me less money that the ARB type selectable locker. Is this correct? If so, that may be an option. Assuming this is the case, what brand/type locker would be a good choice up front? And for that matter, should I upgrade the front axle if planning to use a locker on it?
Click to expand...
Screw the selectable lockers. A lunchbox liker like a LockRite (~$250) or NoSlip ($400) will be fine. Road manners arent bad at all with a NoSlip, I speak from experience. I drove about 5 years setup like your Jeep, then the last 10 locked front and rear. A Lockrite in the front is the best choice, I dont think there's any cheaper (non-welded/spooled) option out there.

I say lock the axles before the winch. Winches are used to pull people who don't have lockers :flipoff2:
 
one more point...if you have manual steering, skip the front locker until after the PS upgrade.

and speaking of steering, think about putting an aftermarket PS box bracket on the CJ. The stock stamped brackets are flimsy, big tires will rip it off. Learned that lesson, twice.
 
Renegade,

What brand axle shafts do you suggest? I may do front and rear if I can afford it. Maybe a full time locker on the front.

And for the steering, I have power steering. You are talking about a stronger bracket. Where would I buy something like that. I like being proactive. Something that may break is something I would like to address ahead of time. It is that very reason I am so preoccupied with the axle shafts and U joint upgrades. Same for the new oil pump with the motor rebuild.
 
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