RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
'93 Toy pickup. Had R12 until not long ago, finally leaked out, I added an R12-134a fitting kit from AutoZoo. Used that to try Freeze 12, which eventually leaked out too. So now doing complete conversion, add dye to find the leak etc.
Few weeks ago I added R134a so I could at least find the leaks. held vacumm ok before filling. Hovever it took foreeeeeever to pull from the cans. Like 45 misn for the first 12 oz, then I could only get another 6 and it was reading really high pressure (like 53 / 250+) and vent temps still only ~67. I quite, let it sit a week.... came back, no pressure at all. OK clearly have a leak, but must be small bc it hold vacuum... suspect o-ring?
I also realize retrospectively I didn't bleed the input line between removing the pump and 1st can, so probably pushed some air in.
All of this was through the low pressure port. Suspicious of the cheap R12-134a adapter today I pulled it off and looked at it closely. It seems its a little prong that permanently presses in the old shrader valve, then it has a valve of it own and pushes air through 2 very tiny holes on either side of the orifice. Going through my manifold I blew air from my yellow hose inlet end through the adapter, initially by mouth and was supprised how much restriction there was, then used shop air w/ a rubber fitting. It flows but not a lot at all.
Threaded it back on, first confirming the native Shader valve works, this time adding dye and being sure to bleed it via the valve on the manifold inlet before opening. Oddly though this time the pressure low side manifold pressure pegged to 70 initially, then just kept creeping up. Hi side never moved (but the compressor also never kicked on). Prevously it would eventually once the system had enough to hit the low pressure switch.
The more I think of it I'm suspicious that adapter is prevently proper flow. Even wonder if this last thing there was no flow at all and that was pressure building up just between the can and the fitting? Any other thoughts?
Also been wondering if I could just operate through the high pressure port (with the compressor off of course). The can internal preure should be enough to push the refrigerant out right? Esp if I dunk it in hot water?
Few weeks ago I added R134a so I could at least find the leaks. held vacumm ok before filling. Hovever it took foreeeeeever to pull from the cans. Like 45 misn for the first 12 oz, then I could only get another 6 and it was reading really high pressure (like 53 / 250+) and vent temps still only ~67. I quite, let it sit a week.... came back, no pressure at all. OK clearly have a leak, but must be small bc it hold vacuum... suspect o-ring?
I also realize retrospectively I didn't bleed the input line between removing the pump and 1st can, so probably pushed some air in.
All of this was through the low pressure port. Suspicious of the cheap R12-134a adapter today I pulled it off and looked at it closely. It seems its a little prong that permanently presses in the old shrader valve, then it has a valve of it own and pushes air through 2 very tiny holes on either side of the orifice. Going through my manifold I blew air from my yellow hose inlet end through the adapter, initially by mouth and was supprised how much restriction there was, then used shop air w/ a rubber fitting. It flows but not a lot at all.
Threaded it back on, first confirming the native Shader valve works, this time adding dye and being sure to bleed it via the valve on the manifold inlet before opening. Oddly though this time the pressure low side manifold pressure pegged to 70 initially, then just kept creeping up. Hi side never moved (but the compressor also never kicked on). Prevously it would eventually once the system had enough to hit the low pressure switch.
The more I think of it I'm suspicious that adapter is prevently proper flow. Even wonder if this last thing there was no flow at all and that was pressure building up just between the can and the fitting? Any other thoughts?
Also been wondering if I could just operate through the high pressure port (with the compressor off of course). The can internal preure should be enough to push the refrigerant out right? Esp if I dunk it in hot water?
