Adjusting IFS Camber

Ricky B

Ricky B

Wiiide Open
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
I got the Superlift 4-6" kit on my Z71 now, I have it cranked all the way up and I'm wanting to take it back down as far as I possibly can because all I use my truck for now is towing and I don't need it to be lifted really anymore. I realize all I have to do is crank the Tbars back down to the 4" or so level but what I'm wondering is what should i do to set the tbars at the proper camber? Is eyeballing it really the only way to do it? I don't want to crank down too far and have my front tires wear out on the inside really bad, but I do want to crank down as far as I possibly can without messing with tire wear.
Thanks
 
Torsion bars don't set camber. Camber can be affected by the ride height, however your best bet is to get an alignment and let them tell you what the limits are.
 
maybe camber isnt the right term i just mean how angled the A arms are. For instance on my truck i got the t bars cranked all the way which forced the a arms down and closer together since they pivot and causes wear on the outside of the front tires. If i were to drop it too much it would pivot the A arms out and up and at a certain point cause the tires to wear on the inside. Thats what im trying to avoid id like to get the A arms setting just right so it will wear my tires evenly from the inside to outside.
 
Why dont you take a angle reading on a stocker and set yours to that angle. Then get it aligned? The ackerman angle is affected by the arm geometry and can cause outer edge wear from over toeing on tighter turns. (the lower a-arm angle)
 
Just spend the $50 and get it aligned.
 
You put the torsion bars where you want them, then you give the alignment guy money. He worries about the caster, camber, and toe. That's what an "alignment" means.
 
If you had a solid front axle before the tie rod, which controls toe in/out, is the only thing adjustable. With your IFS, castor, camber, and toe are all adjustable. Most lift kits should be set within factory specs. If your alignment shop can't tell you what its at and what factory specs are they suck donkey balls. You tires will probably look like they lean if after you let the t-bars down and before an alignment, that is the castor setting. Don't just eyeball it to try to correct it, get it aligned!!

Personally I would ditch the tbars altogether and do a Solid Axle Swamp.
 
Thanks for the info man, i'm def gonna get it aligned after let her down.

Yea i would do the SFA too if i were usin the thing offroad, all i use it for now is DDing and towing until i get out of college and can afford to get me a decent deseil tow rig, untill then im just droppin her down amongst other things here and there to help improve towing capabilities.
 
Yo,

Guessing at the alignment will cost you tire wear and after you buy some more, due to their early death, you will still have to have a shop do the alignment. My financial calculator says do the shop alignment first to save yo tires. If you must crank down the bars, find a similar truck and measure top of rim to bottom of wheel arc. Crank your down to same value on both sides. That will put you in the ball park until the alignment man can do his thing and take yo $50.

:beer:
 
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