Advice for buying first welder

RRADFORD9ER

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Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Location
Asheville
I'm looking for some advice for buying my first welder. I'm a beginner, so I'll be learning from scratch. I'm looking into taking a class at the local tech college over the summer.

When I'm looking for a welder, what should I look for? Should I start on a stick welder or MIG? Whatever I buy will probably be second hand, found on CL, or from a friend. I'm not looking to fab intense stuff like a cage or a bumper, but I would like to be able to make some simple skids and some coil retainers.
 
You may want to search the tech section for this / we may even move this thread over there in a bit, but we have answered this before.

My standard answer is this... if you are not going to do fabrication, you really should consider a ReadyWelder. They are a portable welder that you can take with you on the trails too for emergency fixes!!

Other than that.. MIG is certainly easier to use (which RWelder is a mig gun) but stick is cheaper to find usually.

My personal setup is a ReadyWelder with an adapter kit that allows me to use DC power sources.

Dad and I then bought a used Miller AC/DC stick welder that can supply the power to the RW. We have never bothered to hook that part up and just instead use the stick welder all the time for our projects!

That is my 2 cents...

The el cheapo welders by Harbor Freight etc are really not worth much but then again if you are not doing much... but if you can save up an extra $200 I would say get a decent unit - resell value is much higher if nothing else.

Sam
 
Like Sam said, depends on what you want to do with it! For general purpose home welding I say get a Mig machine from a reputable manufacturer that runs on 115v household current and uses flux core wire, something like the Lincoln WeldPak or Hobart140. I recommend this setup for portability, you have power anywhere you want to take it, and ease of use, the fluxcore wire doesn't require gas so there are less "moving parts" and this is a portability issue also. As your needs change you can then move to a different machine with more power, gas,etc or to a stick machine if you need to.
 
I'd always recommend a stick to start with. Its harder than MIG and the transition from stick to MIG or TIG is really easy but the transition from MIG to stick or TIG is much more difficult. The MIG can be difficult to set up properly for a beginner.

Starting with the stick will make you a better overall welder faster. But, if you're only interested in MIG welding, then buy a small MIG welder. The stick is easily extended with longer leads (up to 500+ feet if necessary). With an AC/DC stick welder, you can get a TIG attachment for it for less than $200
 
I'm with above.
If you really want to buy a welder now, I'd get one of the smaller used 110v Lincoln units. They can do flux-core arc or MIG, and being small you can pick it up and moev aroudn the garage easily - and perhaps more importantly, it takes up little space in the corner or a shelf for all the time it ISN'T being used. Yo ucan prob pick one up used for like $10-150 or so w/ the stuff.
I def agree to take ARC/stick class first, then do MIG. If you do it as con-ed, most CCs have the courses as only 8-week stints so depending on teh schoo lschedule, might squeeze both in during summer or evenings.
And personaly, if you can wait, I wouldn't buy the welder until AFTER you've taken the course(s). The units the CC has will be alot different/better and you'll learn to know what you're looking for and how to set it up first.
 
I say buy a small 220 mig and don't look back. i started with stick, nearly a decade ago, but my machine RARELY gets used in favor of a 220 mig. In my opinion you will regret a 110V mig pretty quickly.

Not that stick welding isnt a good skill to have, but i would not have it as my ONLY welder.
 
Take a welding class then make a decision, or find a friend that has machine that you can try.
 
X2. I've got a Millermatic 175 and it will do anything I'll ever need it to. An ARC machine + Ready Welder is a reall good setup for the occasional user though. Plus you have the mobility of the RW anywhere you go.
 
I have a Miller DVI and I love it 110v/220v with a simple plug switch. MIG is the way to go for starting out. I got an old buzzbox but never use it unless im welding like 1 inch plate.
 
I'm with Rockcity on this one. I would definately start with stick welding you will be thankful for that later. Being able to stick weld well is an art and it gives you a much better understanding of what goes on is a weld. If it were me I would buy a cheap stick welder and some good literature on arc welding. One of the biggest key's to any kind of welding that I think alot of people overlook is having a steady hand, trying to hold a foot long welding rod still is the best way to train yourself. Go buy one of the $200 dollar Harbor Freight inverter Stick/TIG welders and a bottle of Argon. Use it for a while till you get the hang of things and by then you will have a better idea of what kind of work your gonna be doing. Then you can go invest in a good quality MIG that you'll use for years and you still have a 220 TIG you can do mild and stainless with when you need a little cleaner weld.
 
I'm going to agree with going SMAW first (STICK). If your really concerned with learning and want to see what welding really is this is the best place to start- just short of Oxy-Fuel welding. I have taught Basic Welding at a comm. college and I know first hand how lost a person gets by going straight to GMAW or Mig. I also know how fustrating it is to reteach or explain bad habits formed from just grabbing a Mig gun and putting down wire (no mention of a weld here for a reason). If you do go straight to MIG (with no stick welder for backup)get something bigger than 110 single volt machine for two reasons. Anybody who owns a welder will generally get to some point where they will need to weld 1/4 steel. Without getting into duty cycles gas or flux core arguements this is the best most of those can do for any duration of time. With a bigger machine poor bead control travel speed and set up can be compensated a little by having the extra amperage. Don't take that as hotter is always the best method. It's just my experiece that failed wire welds are often directly related to:
1. too little machine for the given job
2. poor joint configuration and prep
3. plain ol' bad technique
Any given wire welder can be set to melt wire and layout a decent appearing bead of metal. That's excluding cold lap, tie in, wetting of the weld edges, ect.. Small machines really lack this punch where its needed. Unless you like grinding all your joints to a feathered edge or plan to weld mostly sheet metal and unibodies back together go bigger than 110. The absolute smallest I'd go if your set on something 110 is a 175 amp miller or lincoln equivalent.
As for school somebody else on here said it best.
For the cost you'll get to:
1. use an array of equipment (think test drive)
2. weld and use exponentially more supplies, power, and materials than your tuition will ever cost (maybe even some outside projects for nearly free)
3. you'll learn a hell of a lot more
 
Ryan, I have gone from Lincoln 220v stick, to Clark 110v (140 amp) mig to my newest one, a Hobart 180 amp, 220v mig. The Hobart does everything I have ever needed. Cages, buggy building, axle brackets, bumpers, sheet metal, exhaust, etc. You have seen what types of work I do.

I would go with a Hobart or Miller 180 amp mig if it were me. These will need 220v service. If you dont have 220v available, then a Miller 140 amp unit will be perfect for ya. IMO, Miller welders are a bit better quality than Hobarts now a days.

I suggest the 180 amp units just because you will never wish you had less welder, only more.

I do have my old Clarke 140 amp, 110 volt mig that I could sell ya if ya wanted. It would be a good beginners welder for little investment.

Call me if ya need to about it...
 
FWIW:

-go mig
-big "three" highest current mig welders that dont max out a dryer outlet: lincoln 180c/t, hobart handler 210, miller 212
-expect gas to cost another $230ish for a 90cf of unimix, dont forget wire and tips

I settled on a hobart handler 210, it's under the miller 5/3/1 warranty, probably a bit cheaper made (and cheaper in price tag by far) but still has the current I need to weld thick metal. Disadvantage of this welder is that it is Tapped rather than Continuous voltage control like the lincoln 180 and the miller212... Continuous is nice for fine tuning when welding really thin gauge metal.
 
If you are going to take a welding class wait. Alot of times the schools are setup to get student discounts from local vendors. Don't waste your money on a cheaper off brand machine, they aren't as easy to setup and use. I'd say Miller, Hobart or Lincoln and go 220 buy a good one once and be done, it's cheaper than rebuying another machine as your needs and fab skills progress.
 
seems like the advice is split. start with stick advice from the professionals and the thought of starting with a MIG from the home user/hobbiest. pick your poisoin :)

I just know from experience that 90% of MIG welders that come from stick welding are MUCH better welders, both MIG, TIG and Stick. Welders that start out using the MIG are lost when trying to get them to use the Stick or TIG and when they do pick it up, it takes them much longer. I've even seen guys that have never Stick or TIG welded before pick it up faster than MIG welders trying it.

I guess if you never plan on doing any Stick or TIG, you don't have any worries starting off with MIG. Also, there are always exceptions to the rule, but its rare...
 
rockcity said:
seems like the advice is split. start with stick advice from the professionals and the thought of starting with a MIG from the home user/hobbiest. pick your poisoin :)
Click to expand...


Take a class or practice with both then make an educated decision. What ever you buy go miller.

I am not a professional at anything, but I did sleep at a Holiday inn express.
 
rockcity said:
seems like the advice is split. start with stick advice from the professionals and the thought of starting with a MIG from the home user/hobbiest. pick your poisoin :)
I just know from experience that 90% of MIG welders that come from stick welding are MUCH better welders, both MIG, TIG and Stick. Welders that start out using the MIG are lost when trying to get them to use the Stick or TIG and when they do pick it up, it takes them much longer. I've even seen guys that have never Stick or TIG welded before pick it up faster than MIG welders trying it.
I guess if you never plan on doing any Stick or TIG, you don't have any worries starting off with MIG. Also, there are always exceptions to the rule, but its rare...
Click to expand...

Very true. I learned on an old Lincoln buzzbox. Stick welding teaches you patience and attention to what you are doing. Where as with a mig, it seems easier to learn (properly or not) and progress from there.

For what Ryan's looking to accomplish, Mig seems the way to go.

Taking the welding class is a great idea. You need to learn principles in order to learn proper procedures IMO.
 
Thanks for the advice...great stuff so far fellas. I'm definitely signing up for the class, which starts next month. I think this is the first time I'll be excited about going to class...
 
RRADFORD9ER said:
Thanks for the advice...great stuff so far fellas. I'm definitely signing up for the class, which starts next month. I think this is the first time I'll be excited about going to class...
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make sure you sign up for the right class. When I was welding I wanted to get some "class training" to ensure I was doing it correctly. After 1 class everyone was so slow the teacher said we'd be spending class times working with just the torch :shaking: I never went back (and turned out OK, I think... :lol: )

I guess point is, if you want to learn welding, make sure you enroll in the right class. I thought I was going to weld and they never did.:shaking:
 
There is more to learn about proper welding techniques than I could ever know and going to school is a great way to get all the info and trials you can get. I think you made the right decision in signing up for class.
Just remeber that when it comes to four wheeling and building parts for yourself and friends which I'm sure is probably your plan. That your life and others may depend on the welds that you do so don't take learning the right way for granted.
 
Electrictian?

The welding class was already full when I tried to sign up, so I'm currently on the waiting list. I went ahead and picked up a Clarke 130 welder from Jody (WNC Custom Jeeps) to practice and learn with. Yesterday I bought a helmet, gloves and some flux core wire to get me started and welding. After "attempting" stick welding the other day I was surprised how easy it was to MIG (well technically I guess it was MOG or whatever you wanna call it).

So I've got a new question...I was laying some practice beads with the power setting on level 3 for about 10 minutes and noticed it wasn't penetrating very well. When I turned the power level to 4, it popped the breaker in the fuse box. When I looked at the fuse box I found that the fuse was the only 15 amp breaker in the box. That got me interested so I started checking into the wiring. It seems that the outlets inside the house are wired using 14-2 with 20 amp breakers. The two outside outlets are wired using 14-2 with a 15 amp breaker. Why would they do that?
 
RRADFORD9ER said:
The welding class was already full when I tried to sign up, so I'm currently on the waiting list. I went ahead and picked up a Clarke 130 welder from Jody (WNC Custom Jeeps) to practice and learn with. Yesterday I bought a helmet, gloves and some flux core wire to get me started and welding. After "attempting" stick welding the other day I was surprised how easy it was to MIG (well technically I guess it was MOG or whatever you wanna call it).
So I've got a new question...I was laying some practice beads with the power setting on level 3 for about 10 minutes and noticed it wasn't penetrating very well. When I turned the power level to 4, it popped the breaker in the fuse box. When I looked at the fuse box I found that the fuse was the only 15 amp breaker in the box. That got me interested so I started checking into the wiring. It seems that the outlets inside the house are wired using 14-2 with 20 amp breakers. The two outside outlets are wired using 14-2 with a 15 amp breaker. Why would they do that?
Click to expand...

Outside may be lower due to possibility of water intrusion? Typically inside power usage will be at a higher amp than outside.

*Not an electrician*

I have 30 and 50 amp outlets in my shop, never a problem. You may need a dedicated higher amp circuit ran from the box to wherever you will be welding. Even better would be a separate breaker box in the work area.
 
WNC Custom Jeeps said:
You may need a dedicated higher amp circuit ran from the box to wherever you will be welding.
Click to expand...

That looks like what I'm going to do. My main location for welding is ~ 8 ft straight down from the breaker box...I don't guess that'd be too expensive to have done.

A quick search showed that it's a no-no to just pop in a 20 amp breaker with the current 14-2 wiring.
 
They may have done the 14ga because 15amp GFCI outlets are cheaper than 20's.

your 20 amp breakers should all have 12-2 wiring on them (typically yellow jacketed), not 14.
 
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