AMC 360 in a CJ - engine mount options

CJKevin1984

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Location
Pilot Mountain
I was warned by some regarding stock OEM style engine mounts when I swapped my 258 for this 360. Because it was much cheaper I still decided to try the standard stuff. Now it seems clear that my passenger side is broken. Heavy throttle results in lots of movement in the transfer case shifter. It operates perfectly other than this, but I am sure there is extra stress on the driver side mount and its only a matter of time until....

So, is there an option between the cheap OEM style mounts and the really expensive "Bomb-proof" mount system?
 
Several companies make Poly motor mounts that work with the factory CJ V8 mounts.
Question, Are you running the CJ factory torque arm at the the transmission/transfer case mount?
I run factory CJ V8 motor mounts in my V8 CJ's and haven't had that problem, I have seen it in others but they were not using the torque arm.
 
Just looked and it appears to have the torque arm (its a lot shorter than I expected) but the bolts going into the transmission are not tight and appear to have been loose for a while.

So, as long as I get tthis sorted out the stock engine mounts should get the job done? I will look at new bushings for the rear mount and new front mounts and see how it goes. And get the bolts tight, of course.
 
Did you swap in the correct V8 bracket (IIRC, one I-6 bracket is the same as V8, the other side is different between the 2 engine types)?
Also, are you sure it's the passenger side that's cut loose?

I've pulled apart numerous 🙄 DRIVERS side mounts, as engine rotation/torque "pulls" the driver side, but compresses the pass side... , but NEVER a passenger side.
Resolved the DS mount issue years ago with short length of chain from frame to engine mount with enough slack the engine is "restrained" during heavy throttle, but comfortably resting ON the mount for everything else.
 
CJKevin1984 said:
Just looked and it appears to have the torque arm (its a lot shorter than I expected) but the bolts going into the transmission are not tight and appear to have been loose for a while.

So, as long as I get tthis sorted out the stock engine mounts should get the job done? I will look at new bushings for the rear mount and new front mounts and see how it goes. And get the bolts tight, of course.
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On the torque arm, I'm pretty sure the 2 piece mount is made with a 1/8" or slack in the center of the mount. It allows for "some" slight twist. Just so you know.
 
Caver Dave said:
Did you swap in the correct V8 bracket (IIRC, one I-6 bracket is the same as V8, the other side is different between the 2 engine types)?
Also, are you sure it's the passenger side that's cut loose?

I've pulled apart numerous 🙄 DRIVERS side mounts, as engine rotation/torque "pulls" the driver side, but compresses the pass side... , but NEVER a passenger side.
Resolved the DS mount issue years ago with short length of chain from frame to engine mount with enough slack the engine is "restrained" during heavy throttle, but comfortably resting ON the mount for everything else.
Click to expand...
I remember there being a different on one side from the 6 to the V8 so I am pretty sure that the brackets are right. I was certain that the pass-side was broken but after reading your post I think I should double check. My certainty was based on the movement of the T-case shifter when under power.

Your pulling apart numerous broken mounts and the relatively short "torque arm" has me thinking more about the bombproof option. Outside of the high costs, I am a little concerned about them being too rigid for comfortable operation.

Your chain option is interesting. I had considered something similar but using a heavy cargo strap "clamped" between the mount and the engine/frame. This Jeep is a spring and fall jeep so I have a little time.
 
Well I was wrong about which was broken - the driver side is certainly ripped apart. I didn't jack it up to check the pass side but it may only be stressed or the rubber has pulled away from the metal. And the fact that the passenger side bracket is clean while the driver side looks much older should confirm that thoseare correct.
GOPR2383.JPG
GOPR2384.JPG


I also attached a pick fo the rear mount. Does that look normal or is the outboard bushing way too high to be helping? Finally does that look normal for the reported 1/8" of slack in the bolts into the case? If the bushing is doing nothing, as I am thinking then I am back to the opinion that the stock mounts may be good enough.

GOPR2385.JPG
 
When I installed the rebuilt 360, I replaced both engine mounts. One looked good, & one was starting to separate. Don't remember which now, but easier to do both while the engine was out. Your bushing is probably ok; just hard to see through the grease.
 
CJKevin1984 said:
Well I was wrong about which was broken - the driver side is certainly ripped apart. I didn't jack it up to check the pass side but it may only be stressed or the rubber has pulled away from the metal. And the fact that the passenger side bracket is clean while the driver side looks much older should confirm that thos eare correct.
Click to expand...
Yeap, the DS mount gets pulled apart... I ran $5 Chiwanesse/Indian to $50 "Made in USA" mounts... all destroyed within 1-2 rides/100 miles until the "chain" was employed. A wee bit ghetto to most, but has been working for 20+ years :D

CJKevin1984 said:
I also attached a pick fo the rear mount. Does that look normal or is the outboard bushing way too high to be helping? Finally does that look normal for the reported 1/8" of slack in the bolts into the case? If the bushing is doing nothing, as I am thinking then I am back to the opinion that the stock mounts may be good enough.

View attachment 375946
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with all the various CJ mounts, BUT... a couple things stick out to me:
- Agreed, the LOWER torque arm bushing appears to be either shot/MIA or stud grossly misadjusted
- There *should* also be a rubber mount UNDER the torque arm and until confirmed good (they'll disintegrate when oiled down), would also be suspect given the the amount of movement in the torque arm
 
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