AUTO to MANUAL toyota

ASU4runner

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Jul 22, 2009
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Submarines
ok so you may have seen my earlier post about a fubar auto tranny. i have a tranny guy goin through it now, he should get back to me on how much it will be to get it fixed. my decision is if i should get the auto fixed or just try and find a manual to throw in it. has anyone ever done a swap on a first gen runner? i am thinkin if i find a good tranny and tcase, buy a new clutch, master and slave cylinders, idk what else i need other than a pedal. any info would be awesome.
 
oh and also, if someone could school me on what tranny and tcase i would need to bolt up to my engine, its the stock 3.0 for an 88 runner.
 
Should be a R150 and a forward shift 23 spline case.
 
The brake/clutch pedal is one assembly. Once you have that, you will know where to drill the holes in the firewall for the assembly to bolt through and for the hole for the clutch master to go through. Remember that the pedal assembly has studs on the back side that the master cylinders bolt to.
 
awesome thanks
 
The front and rear driveshafts will have to be replaced too, the lengths won't be right anymore.
Not sure about the hole in the floor for the shiters too, you'll at least need the plate and cover from the donor vehicle.
This isn't a terribly "hard" task, but it's not cheap either, there's a lot of little things that change.
Your gauge cluster will be different, do you have a tach now (SR5)?

Also keep in mind the final drive gearing is different, the 5spd vehicles came w/ 4.10 in the 3rd members, yours will be 4.30 unless you have regeared. The difference isn't huge (5%) but it means teh shift points etc won't be in the stock "location" if you still have the OE size tires etc.
 
The front and rear driveshafts will have to be replaced too, the lengths won't be right anymore.
Not sure about the hole in the floor for the shiters too, you'll at least need the plate and cover from the donor vehicle.
This isn't a terribly "hard" task, but it's not cheap either, there's a lot of little things that change.
Your gauge cluster will be different, do you have a tach now (SR5)?
Also keep in mind the final drive gearing is different, the 5spd vehicles came w/ 4.10 in the 3rd members, yours will be 4.30 unless you have regeared. The difference isn't huge (5%) but it means teh shift points etc won't be in the stock "location" if you still have the OE size tires etc.



yeah i figured my shafts would have to be changed. i do have a tach, it is an sr5. and believe it or not, not ALL of the v6 models had 4.30's, i found that out when i was doing my sas, i have one of the few exceptions, i think it is because of the rare tranny/t-case combo unit i have, but it is stock 4.10. im not too worried about making this thing perfect, as long as it drives. its not like its a limo now anyways. it is a daily driver but i also take it on plenty of trails.
 
yeah i figured my shafts would have to be changed. i do have a tach, it is an sr5. and believe it or not, not ALL of the v6 models had 4.30's, i found that out when i was doing my sas, i have one of the few exceptions, i think it is because of the rare tranny/t-case combo unit i have, but it is stock 4.10. im not too worried about making this thing perfect, as long as it drives. its not like its a limo now anyways. it is a daily driver but i also take it on plenty of trails.

Sorry, I missedt he 3.0 - the 22res were 4.30 w/ AT (that's what I had originally).
The point was just that the final drive per gear is different - mostly b/c of the differences between having 4 vs 5 gears, in order to make up for the "longer" gear-to-speed distances on the A/T, Toyota balanced that w/ different axle ratios.
But really this works in your favor b/c it means you're a tad overgeared comapred to before.

Another option, if you like Autos, is changing to an AW4. Aparently this is a sister unit, you just keep your bellhousing to bolt it up. This allowsmore options later for transfer cases etc... I'm pretty sure when my A340h dies that's what I'll do.
 
You also have a computer that controls an auto. So will have to change computers.


thanks rob. i figured that the ecm or whatever its called would have to be messed with, im leaning more towards just trying to fix the auto now, because of how much i use it as a DD and trail rides. i dont see getting a doubler any time soon, so spending the money of driveshafts and such for the swap doesnt sound feasible right now. guess ill find out, a tranny guy in town has the tranny now and is going through it.
 
You also have a computer that controls an auto. So will have to change computers.

I do not belive you have to change the ECU (at least for the 22re)... When we did it, it was a 22re auto to manual and if my memory serves me correctly, we just had to bypass the neutral lockout switch.
 
I do not belive you have to change the ECU (at least for the 22re)... When we did it, it was a 22re auto to manual and if my memory serves me correctly, we just had to bypass the neutral lockout switch.

nice, that does make it a little easier sounding. some of the things i have read up on say that the low range in my auto now is lower than the manual low range, but the first gear is of course lower in the manual. anyone know about getting a auto that DOESNT have the integrated t-case? form what ive read, the t-case is hydraulically controlled and really takes away form my motor power, and as we all know i dont have any to spare with my 3.0
 
anyone know about getting a auto that DOESNT have the integrated t-case? form what ive read, the t-case is hydraulically controlled and really takes away form my motor power, and as we all know i dont have any to spare with my 3.0

Sorry - the A340 trannies ALL have the integrated case.
E.g. the only way you can divorce them to is to swap the tranny to something else.
Hence my suggestion for an AW4, it's very similar and can use the old bellhousing, but using a seperate case.

buuut - the difference in gearing between the A/T TC and the 5 spd is small- 2.2 vs 2.4 or maybe 2.6. Not enough to really stress over IMO.
 
Sorry - the A340 trannies ALL have the integrated case.
E.g. the only way you can divorce them to is to swap the tranny to something else.
Hence my suggestion for an AW4, it's very similar and can use the old bellhousing, but using a seperate case.
buuut - the difference in gearing between the A/T TC and the 5 spd is small- 2.2 vs 2.4 or maybe 2.6. Not enough to really stress over IMO.




ok. i wasnt sure what the diff was but i knew the AT tc was a little lower. do you know if there are alot of after amrket parts to "bulletproof" these autos? as in, if i got it rebuilt, could i get it rebuilt with stronger planetaries and stuff? i really want to keep the auto. i had a cj5 before i had this yota, and its just too convenient in the rocks to have an auto.
 
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