Axle shaft suggestions

ShimShim

ShimShim

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Location
Charlotte, NC
I might kick myself for going down this rabbit hole but I’m gonna ask for suggestions here. After pulling all four shafts, it’s clear I could benefit from replacing the fronts. There’s more than surface rust and it’s just a matter of time for them. Pic of one below.

For info, it’s a 2007 JKU with stock D30 front and stock D44 rear. 35 inch tires. Mild wheeler. 185000 plus miles.

So now I’m thinking while I’m already this deep, I’ll go ahead and replace the fronts so I’m not crying on the side of the road or trail later on. I need suggestions on brand and type of shaft. I’m not going hard core and Uwharrie is likely the most I’ll see. Might throw a locker in the front or rear in the future but that’s a ways out and I’m not going bigger than 35 inch tires. Budget is a consideration.

Also, I while the rear shafts look way better they have the same miles on them. I already need to see what a shop is gonna charge to replace the bearings and seals. At this point am I better off just going new shafts all around? I’m leaning toward yes but my savings account already hates me.

TL;DR give me your shaft suggestions. Plus is it worth it to replace rear while I’m at it?
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Really, any typical "chromo" set of front shafts will be fine. Give ECGS a call and talk budget.
I charge $200 to replace rear shaft bearings and seals on a JK FWIW.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Really, any typical "chromo" set of front shafts will be fine. Give ECGS a call and talk budget.
I charge $200 to replace rear shaft bearings and seals on a JK FWIW.
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Thanks Jody, I'll give them a call too. I've got three other places I planned to call today, can't hurt to check with a fourth.

Does that $200 include the parts as well? And I assume that price is if someone brings you the shafts already out of the jeep? It's good to have a ballpark to know what to expect so I appreciate your input.
 
ShimShim said:
Thanks Jody, I'll give them a call too. I've got three other places I planned to call today, can't hurt to check with a fourth.

Does that $200 include the parts as well? And I assume that price is if someone brings you the shafts already out of the jeep? It's good to have a ballpark to know what to expect so I appreciate your input.
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That's parts and labor if the diff is already apart for regear, locker install, etc.
Would be $300 otherwise.
 
Just call ECGS and get a set of shafts if you're wanting to replace the current ones. Chromos in a 30 are cheap. Not sure if bother changing the rear shafts, but new shafts will come with bearings. I would talk price with ECGS and go from there.
 
NickMaul said:
What we can’t see are the ears around the u joint. Buy a new set and keep these as spares at the least :driver:
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By his description, he's an open diff, light wheeler, and it's a JK axle. He's more likely to bend the front housing than he is to break the shaft. Even in the rear, he'd more likely bend the flange than break anything. The rust is superficial. Rust flakes are something like 10x the thickness of the original metal thickness. It makes it look worse than it really is. Based on the comments that he doesn't want to spend the money, I'd suggest doing nothing.
 
shawn said:
By his description, he's an open diff, light wheeler, and it's a JK axle. He's more likely to bend the front housing than he is to break the shaft. Even in the rear, he'd more likely bend the flange than break anything. The rust is superficial. Rust flakes are something like 10x the thickness of the original metal thickness. It makes it look worse than it really is. Based on the comments that he doesn't want to spend the money, I'd suggest doing nothing.
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Uhwarrie is the perfect place for a Dana 30 185k mile original ujoint on 35s to self implode and break both ball joints :D

I’m not worried about the rust on the shaft either. Just the ability to service the u joint is not going to be a walk in the park if the ears and ujoint are as bad as the rusty exposed shaft. I don’t even think he would need chromos. Just stock replacements with full circle clips.
 
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shawn said:
By his description, he's an open diff, light wheeler, and it's a JK axle. He's more likely to bend the front housing than he is to break the shaft. Even in the rear, he'd more likely bend the flange than break anything. The rust is superficial. Rust flakes are something like 10x the thickness of the original metal thickness. It makes it look worse than it really is. Based on the comments that he doesn't want to spend the money, I'd suggest doing nothing.
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It's not that I don't want to spend the money. I mean who does? But I don't mind spending it if it's needed, especially for peace of mind. Did not know that about rust flakes being so thick.
 
NickMaul said:
Uhwarrie is the perfect place for a Dana 30 185k mile original ujoint on 35s to self implode and break both ball joints :D

I’m not worried about the rust on the shaft either. Just the ability to service the u joint is not going to be a walk in the park if the ears and ujoint are as bad as the rusty exposed shaft. I don’t even think he would need chromos. Just stock replacements with full circle clips.
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This is the stuff I need to hear though and what makes me think I should spend the money for peace of mind. The ears don't look bad, in my uneducated opinion. I'll snap a pic before I leave for work.
 
ShimShim said:
This is the stuff I need to hear though and what makes me think I should spend the money for peace of mind. The ears don't look bad, in my uneducated opinion. I'll snap a pic before I leave for work.
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Probably just replace the joint with quality spicer joints and full circle clips and be done. Especially if you are going to be bumping it over ledges. Typical shaft breakage occurs at the splines or the ujoint anyways.

However, spare shafts with the unit bearing all set to go are hard to beat if you want to get out of the forest before the sun goes down. Someone might have spare d30 jk shafts laying in a pile around here anyways…
 
NickMaul said:
Probably just replace the joint with quality spicer joints and full circle clips and be done. Especially if you are going to be bumping it over ledges. Typical shaft breakage occurs at the splines or the ujoint anyways.

However, spare shafts with the unit bearing all set to go are hard to beat if you want to get out of the forest before the sun goes down. Someone might have spare d30 jk shafts laying in a pile around here anyways…
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This is good advice if he's wheeling an XJ or TJ, not for anything newer. JKs can run with no shaft at all, and have much bigger u-joints than the earlier D30s.
 
I would clean that rust up and rock out. If your U joints move freely and don’t squeak, rock out. A shaft isn’t really a wear item, it’s either broke/bent or it’s not. It really doesn’t wear out. Stretched ears and twisted splines are a possibility, but doesn’t sound like you’re going to run into that. Clean that rust and put a bunch of oil on it, and call it good.
 
Hear are the ears (see what I did there? I crack myself up) on the front shafts. I think they look alright but I don’t know what to look for either. Don’t think they’re squeaking and pretty sure they’re moving freely. I’ll check tomorrow after work to be sure.
Thanks everyone for the replies and advice so far.
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Different levels of spend/do here.
1. check for play in the joints, if good, clean them up and slap them back in
2. replace with warrantied shafts and joints from ECGS (warranty and service)
3. have some C gussets installed as well has some tube inserts on front,( they will bend, spread, and cause all sorts of issues, yes, even on 35's) Add in all of #2
4. If you go with all of Number 2 and 3, it's a great time to have it all serviced with bearings, seals and a great time to add in the locker.

I can't say who in your area, but up this way, Chris at Buckeye performance, and @Jody Treadway For any axle work.
don't be afraid to travel for quality work, and expect to have a wait time since most are repairing these days(vehicles) instead of replacing, and most places are slammed due to employee shortages.
 
It all looks fine to me. If there isn't any slop in the u-joints, I'd throw it back together and run it. Replacing u-joints runs the risk of deforming/stretching the ears and the u-joint bore, so I wouldn't replace them as PM in your case.
 
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