Battery Cutoff Switch

YJJPWrangler

YJJPWrangler

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2005
Location
Charlotte
Looking to add a battery cutoff switch that I can surface mount behind the passenger seat near the battery. I am wanting to run both engine power and winch power to this and have the ability to cut power off to both in the event of an emergency or other situations.

Found this on amazon. Will this work? Or should I look for something else.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Batte...812705150901&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0
 
@Fabrik8 Correct. I already have an engine kill switch, I want to be able to disconnect the battery from both motor and the winch.
 
@Bebop just from looking at the specs, it looks like 1 input(1 wire from battery) and then two outputs(motor and winch). Does anyone see any issues with running 1 wire from the battery to this switch to run both? I am running a yellowtop optima and have brand new 1/0 cable and lugs.
 
I can't tell you yes or no.

Depends the length of the run between the battery and the switch and the quality of your 1/0 cable.
 
@Bebop. Napa battery cables(if that makes a difference). 8ft from battery to starter and 10ft to winch. That's actual distance with how the cables are routed.
 
I'd go with 2/0 of actual welding cable because I like to go overkill. But might not be necessary.

Double your measurements for the total run (think about the ground side).

Make sure your battery has a properly sized chassis ground.
 
Am I the only one that runs the ground for the winch and the main chassis through the cut off rather hot side?
 
snappy said:
But if the ground is undone there is no hot lead.....lol
Click to expand...

If you have a short anywhere on this cable prior to the cut off switch, yes there is.
In case the battery switch is on the positive lead you have less cable "downstream" from the switch vs the amount of cable "upstream" from a switch in a negative switched system.

That's one of the reasons why every single racing sanctioning body mandates switching the positive side.

With everything in good condition, I agree, it doesn't change much from a functional standpoint and will achieve the same result which is stopping the winch.
 
snappy said:
Am I the only one that runs the ground for the winch and the main chassis through the cut off rather hot side?
Click to expand...
Your not, your doing it right.
Correct way is to cut the ground. Not the hot. Years of setting these up in industry and buggies and race cars. Once disconnected there are no hot wires. You can’t insert “what if you have a wire shorted”, as it applies to the positive shorting it will arc to chassis, grounds wont arc they are grounded. The ground can be much shorter since it goes to chassis so potential shorts are less likely regardless. Just size the disconnect according to winch max load plus 20% is what the warn folks told me years ago. These are reasons why you disconnect the ground side as taught to me anyways.
 
Last edited:
Bebop said:
HD-Series Heavy Duty On-Off Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems

This is what you want.

The 3000 model comes with 1 IN (battery) and 2 OUT (winch and engine) studs.

It's rated to 500amp continuous and 900amp in short bursts.
Click to expand...

just ordered this from this this thread for my runner. I really like the dual stud option. The rating is great for the high draws of a winch to. And water proof! Amazing how many aren’t water proof. Hoping to hide it under my fuel door since the tank is in the bed now.
 
I have seen some winch solenoids arc out and get stuck in "winch in" mode.

Any winch cutoff I install, I make sure is accessible to the driver in case of emergency. I also never winch without someone inside the rig.

PS : Last time I saw this happen, someone lost a couple fingers.
 
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