Bent tie rod - on purpose

mcconnell

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Location
Apex, NC
Setting up my steering and don’t see a decent way around putting 2 slight bends in my tie rod to clear the diff cover. I’m using Dodge UB outers that have the stock arms pretty high. It’s mocked up with 1” offset heims.

Tie rod below and drag link above was the plan but I hit the diff cover at about 22deg of steering to drivers. Clears fine to passenger
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The tie rod clears the diff if mounted above on the knuckles, but then I’d have to find a way to double shear the top on the passenger side and there isn’t a ton to build off of. Also may have frame interference in uptravel.
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I think a 20deg bend at each to get about 2” offset will work. I’d switch back to straight heims too. Any major concerns with this plan? 1.5x0.25w and I will have hydro assist attached to it.
 
It wouldn't be all that difficult to double shear it (if you went that route). Top of those knuckles are somewhat flat and you could add bolts are well as a proper weld
I wouldn't bend the TR. It'll be a pain down the road.
 
Hokie_YJ said:
This is full hydro, but these are 2nd gen Dodge outers in my single seat buggy. Maybe a little inspiration for a double shear setup.
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Oh yea, I’ve had that page of your build thread bookmarked for a while. Mine will get a bit taller with 2 joints on top, but otherwise I plan to copy it.

And to @Jody Treadway point, I don’t want to deal with adjusting a bent tie rod. That had slipped my mind.
 
mcconnell said:
Oh yea, I’ve had that page of your build thread bookmarked for a while. Mine will get a bit taller with 2 joints on top, but otherwise I plan to copy it.

And to @Jody Treadway point, I don’t want to deal with adjusting a bent tie rod. That had slipped my mind.
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Awesome. It should be pretty doable, and not too tall, especially if you use standard spacers on the tie rod instead of high misalignment.
 
Ol' Jeeps built plenty with bends at each end.

Edit: with High misalignment spacers or the like it isn't gonna get ridiculous roll axis travel on the rod end. Keep the ram nice and parallel to mitigate side loading the rod end and roll out. Double shear welded arms and fabricobbled knuckles are weakest at the knuckle weld zone. Also the cross section of the weldable area and the lack of reinforcement opposing the direct line of force doesn't make them terribly strong. Stronger then nothing? Yes. Stout and bullet proof? No.

As a note look at the design of double shear welded styles. Compare that to the actual flat cross section of say a flat top milled arm with studs. Granted the studs are in shear and the best are keyed but this is the strength you looking for any time you move the stresses to another location of a factory cast product. Not to mention that factory casting was never meant to fight compounding forces of off road tires, momentum, and a hydraulically compounded force on the other end of the trajectory pointing device in your hands.

Better knuckles or keep the line of force as close to the original location and beef up as best can be accomplished.

Edit number 2: I didn't want to give the impression I was bashing @Hokie_YJ . So quoting what I said:
"keep the line of force as close to the original location and beef up as best can be accomplished" His are exactly what I was referencing. The horrible way is when done and someone tries to raise the mounting point well about the original like a high steer knuckle.
 
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