Bleeding Brakes After Replacing Calipers

Nissan11

Nissan11

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Location
Marston, NC
I have an 08 Sonata with the 3.3 v6 and I am at the point where I am ready to have it towed to a shop to have the brakes bled.
On Thursday I noticed the smell of burning brakes when driving home from the vet and pulled off the road to find a front right caliper sticking. I limped the car home and quickly pulled off both calipers so I could get to the parts store before they closed on New Years Eve. It started raining on my way home with two new front calipers so I decided to wait until Friday to install them. Of course, in the morning the master cylinder was dry but I was not worried because I have my trusty mity vac.
After getting the calipers on I hooked up my mity vac to each front caliper, started pumping and cracked each bleeder. The system quickly took about 1/3 qt of fluid but I could not get any fluid out of the bleeders. For the next several hours I jumped between the front calipers with no change in the fluid level of the master cylinder.
Last night I asked to friend to come help me. He started the car and pushed the pedal for me while I cracked the bleeders. The order I did was RR, FL, LR, FR which is the recommendation from Hyundai. I quickly had a steady stream of fluid out of all calipers but there was no brake pressure. I did this three times and went to bed.
This morning I pulled the front calipers, removed the bolts securing the brake line and straightened out the bend in the lines while gravity bleeding. I had fluid coming out of the bleeders so I hooked up the mity vac and pulled more fluid for good measure. After installing the calipers I gravity bled, then vacuumed the calipers separately. I went around the car 5 times.
There is still no pressure. The pedal easily goes all the way to the floor. I checked the new calipers for leaks but have found none.
Is there anything else I should try before towing the car? Thanks.
 
Sometimes you have to bleed it at the master cylinder first. They can become air bound. You will get fluid flow but there will be no pressure. When ypu press the pedal with the bleeder open does fluid squirt out with a lot of force?
 
Monkeynono said:
Sometimes you have to bleed it at the master cylinder first. They can become air bound. You will get fluid flow but there will be no pressure. When ypu press the pedal with the bleeder open does fluid squirt out with a lot of force?
Click to expand...
No, not much force at all. How do I bleed at the master cyl?
 
Open the lines at the master (you don't have to take them all the way of just a turn or 2) depress and hold the pedal, close the lines then release it. Do that a couple of time till you get no more air.
 
Calipers are on the wrong side. Make sure bleeder is on top of caliper.
 
If the master was dry I’m with the bleed the. Master comment above.
 
the problem with bleed an aged brake system is the wear and possible build up of debris IN the master cylinder. you push past the wear point or crud build up ring in the bore and you've crapped the seal.

add to it being air bound when allowed to run dry, the master needs to be reasonably level to allow the fluid to displace air in any possible high spots in the bore.

Recommend filling reservoir, removing each line at master one at a time, place finger over bore have assistant SLOWLY press and release pedal, the pressure will push past your finger, but will seal enough to pull fluid from cup on return stroke. a few strokes and you'll have all fluid pushing, then connect line, push the pedal and crack the line a few times then do the other.
 
Does this have ABS? if so you will need to fire the ABS motor to remove the air out of the manifold. then bleed again, also, bleed the master first.

I know the Kelsy/hayes ABS manifold had a small plunger on the side that ones would hold in while pumping the brake to help bleed it. Still had to fire it though to remove the air completely.

You will need a scanner that has ABS capabilities.
 
Jeff B said:
Does this have ABS? if so you will need to fire the ABS motor to remove the air out of the manifold. then bleed again, also, bleed the master first.

I know the Kelsy/hayes ABS manifold had a small plunger on the side that ones would hold in while pumping the brake to help bleed it. Still had to fire it though to remove the air completely.

You will need a scanner that has ABS capabilities.
Click to expand...
Yes it has ABS. I did not think about that. Can you recommend a scan tool that has ABS capability? Do some scan tools not work with some manufacturers?
 
And I live on a long dirt road. I dont have a lot of pressure but the car will stop. If I get out and stomp the brakes enough for the abs motor to run will that help bleed it?
 
Not usually. I know on GM trucks when you command the ABS bleed procedure, it runs for a good 30 seconds and makes all the difference in the world.
 
I did this with 3 gm vehicles so it should work. Go about 10-15mph on your gravel drive,then stomp the brakes to activate the abs. Do this a couple of times then bleed and repeat. That was the recommended way on all the diesel forums to bleed the module without a scan tool.

Gonna need a $250+ scan tool to get ABS capabilities.
 
Where is the air in the abs system? In the calipers or in the MC? If not at the calipers then how does air from the abs system move all the way down the lines to the calipers?
 
Nissan11 said:
Where is the air in the abs system? In the calipers or in the MC? If not at the calipers then how does air from the abs system move all the way down the lines to the calipers?
Click to expand...
you may be able to lock the brakes to fire the motor, However with the amount of air in that manifold, probably better off to get the tool. There is a good harbor freight scan tool. I cannot remember the name, it's about 120$

The air will be trapped in the ABS manifold, may be under the seat or underneath attached to the frame. Your lines will run from the master cyl. to the manifold then branch out to the wheels from there.
 
Amazon product ASIN B07CSMJJK9

Looks like this new upgrade doesnt like amazon links.. Here is the title and cost to look up on amazon.


FOXWELL NT630 Plus OBD2 Scanner ABS SRS Code Reader Automotive OBD II SRS Airbag Diagnostic and ABS Brake Bleed Scan Tool

$139.98 & FREE Shipping​

 
Thanks! It looks like that one will do what I need.
 

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