Boat Trailer Modifications

BigBody79

BigBody79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Location
Lumberton
My current boat trailer is pretty much not what I want. Can't really afford to buy a new trailer at this point.

Here is the picture so you we are on the same page.
ai891.photobucket.com_albums_ac119_nbaff_IMG_0102.jpg


Notice how the the fenders go up and above the sides of the boat. The problem here is that there is almost not clearance between the fender and the side of the boat. Less than 1" on each side of the boat.

I had two ideas on fixing this problem. The first one was to raise the bunks on the trailer. I was just going to use spacers underneath the current bunks but that is going to change the angles and where the bunks hit the boat.

The second idea is to flip the axle. The axle is actually just a piece of 2x4 tubing that has a spindle welded to it. The spindle is welded to the top part of the tubing. The middle of the spindle is actually lined up with the top part of the tube.

My thinking is that if I were to flip the axle over I would gain nearly 4 inches of clearance between the fender and the tire. Then I would be able to lower the fender 4 inches and then the boat would be over the fender.

This is where the problems come in. If i were to lower the fender it will no longer attach to the mounting points. As you can see the mounting points are welded on to the sides of the trailer.

I don't really know what my best options are going to be.

1. Cheapest. cut off the old mounting point and re weld them on where they need to be.
Biggest problem on this is that I'm probably not going to be able to come close to matching the paint.

2. Cheaper. Jump up and down on the fender till it flattens out enough to reach the old mounting points.

3. Cheap. Make some custom square jeep style fenders. that just go up and over.

4. Not as cheap. Pay some on to roll up some custom fenders that will reach the old mounting points. Again paint becomes a problem. Fender arch won't match the wheel arch.

There is an option that I am not seeing. Any solid ideas?
 
My vote is leave the trailer the same height, so it keeps the same center of gravity and just move the fenders out some. You could also cut a strip out of the fenders and narrow them, keeping the same outer location. Even a small shackle lift would help keep it lower than a spring over.

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk 2
 
I agree. Except that it not possible.

The inner fender already rub the tire some.

Another reason something needs to be changed.
 
thats how every boat ive ever had has been.
Not sure I see the need to change?
 
Make the axle a little wider maybe? Or just wheel spacers so you can cut the fenders off and move them out some.
 
Might not look like it but the trailer is right at 102" wide.

It has been like this since 2007. I've had to get the gelcoat on the right side patched up from where the trailer has hit the fender and it is getting beat up pretty bad.

When I said that there was 1" clearance that's really generous. I cannot wash that area of the boat because it is so close to the fender. It is so close I cannot stick my finger between the boat and the fender.

I kinda like the spacer deal but I don't want to put any more stress on the hubs than I have to. But a 1/2 spacer is huge and won't really get me to where I need to be.



There are quite a few boat that are on the trailer like this. However, if you look at them there is room between the fender and the boat. When you start looking at boats that have a wide beam. Most of them are up and over the fender.
 
As to flipping the axle, consider camber (unloaded) and any possible caster set in the axle in stock position.
 
What about cutting and widening the axle about 3" that would give me another 1.5" on each side. That might just do the trick.

That would be better than spacers because it doesn't put added stress on the hub. Keeps the overall height low and keeps the caster/camber to where it was before.

I figure I would just take the axle down to the place and have 3" put in it. I would have to redo the spring perches but that shouldn't be that hard.
 
Caster won't matter bc it's not a steering axle, as well as camber since it should be 0. But makin the axle wider would be the best way.
 
Another thing I though of is to put an extra set of side rollers on the the trailer to keep the boat from hittin the trailer.
 
im going to say something unpopular....
are you power loading?
If so is this your first boat? Are you sure you are loading it right? I see lots of guys back waaaay to deep, if you are enough out of the water to make the bow take the guides you should not be able to get into the fenders unless you are coming in sideways. On my Ranger I cant get a finger between the fender on either side. Now Ive got into the fenders before in a rough chop or bad cross wind...but really you do not want air coming between the boat and the side bunks at speed.
 
This is not my first boat. I have had plenty of them. That's why this is really bothering me. This boat has been on and off the trailer more than most. It hits the water regularly more than 30 times a year.

Don't really power load. I have really experimented with how deep the trailer goes in the water. I have 4 bunks on the trailer. If I keep the trailer up and out of the water it is a pain to pull it up the bunks, but it does center better on the trailer. I have thought about going with the ultimate bunk board which is slicker and I could stay further out of the water. My wife is the one that puts it on the trailer. She does a good job. Couple of times the current and some cross winds have got us. Most of the time we drive on to about 4 feet from the winch post then I just pull it up the rest of the way with the winch. I have been backing in the water a bit deeper than before. That has helped remove a lot of stress on the bow eye.

Just having a hard time keeping the boat from hitting it mostly on the right side. I am just not real happy with the whole set up. I have a saltwater boat with a saltwater motor and I have a painted trailer. I would much rather move up to an aluminum I beam trailer that would work much better.

I agree it does sound like I don't know what I am doing, but I do. Put it nice and easy at a crazy 4th of July boat ramp with boats everywhere.
 
Ron said:
im going to say something unpopular....
are you power loading?
If so is this your first boat? Are you sure you are loading it right? I see lots of guys back waaaay to deep, if you are enough out of the water to make the bow take the guides you should not be able to get into the fenders unless you are coming in sideways. On my Ranger I cant get a finger between the fender on either side. Now Ive got into the fenders before in a rough chop or bad cross wind...but really you do not want air coming between the boat and the side bunks at speed.
Click to expand...
I was wondering this and glad you asked. Why not just raise the bunks 1 inch? By boat looks about as tight as yours.
 
How do you guys load your boats?

Most trailers are drive on. I drive it up on the bunks but I do not power it all the way to the winch stand.
 
I do drive on, but the key Im trying to make is the bottom bunks should be 1/2 or more out of the water.
back in all the way to wet them so they slide and then pull out until the top of the fender is out of the water.
Ease in until the bow takes the bunks, trim down, let it eat until the ring bottoms out on the roller.


I see a whole lot of guys back in until the top of the fenders is 6-10" under water, then you boat floats above the bunks and you have no guide.

My trailer has side rails though which def makes a difference.

BTW a Champion is a great hull, cant tell which Rude you have out back but I love my OMC's as well.
 
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