Body Mounts

Ricky B

Ricky B

Wiiide Open
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Ok i have two questions this is for a 95 YJ body onto a 74 CJ5 frame.

One is that i drew a design for a body mount and included it below. Now from the pic you can see that the flat steel goes out from the frame and has two gussets of steel on either side underneath to support it. Here's the first question: These body mount will have to go out like 12" or so from the frame will these be strong enough and what steel thickness should i use?


Ok Second Question: I am prob gonna run a 1" body lift but will most likely have to use 2" body lift blocks in the front to accomidate for the rear being a little higher up than the front. Now i know you can buy just the body lift blocks from 4wparts or wherever. Are body lift blocks enough for a body mount or do I still need the body mount bushings as well as the body lift blocks?

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 12-07-05_1523.jpg
    12-07-05_1523.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 343
If you're having to build your own body mounts, just put them where you need them, at the height you need them.

Your drawing is basically how most manufacturers build them. You want more steel in the gusset out at the body bushing than you're showing, though. The gusset section should be ~1" tall or better out there. You'll probably also want a gusset across the front (or just break the lip of the body mount) to tie the ends together.

I dunno if you have the option or not... but I'd move the body mounts inboard to keep the length of your frame stands to a minimum. 6" is certainly acceptable, but 12" is pushing it.

3/16" should be plenty as far as thickness goes.
 
How would you move the body mount on the body? I'd be all for it because it sounds like it be easier. I know you can't just bolt through the floorboard because it wont be strong enough so how would I do that?

And When I said the question about the Body lift blocks and body bushings themselves I meant do I need the bushings them selfs? Because they are made of polyurethane and so are the body lift blocks from performance accesories. So can I just use the body lift blocks as the body lift bushings or do I need both?

Thanks
 
:lol: :lol:


well, do not use just a body lift for body bushings. Body lift blocks or pucks are not bushings are a different material. :confused: you need rubber or poly. If you must have something different, go to a boat shop and buy the poly or rubber trailer rollers. They allow you to make whatever you need as far as heighth. Or just buy stock Jeep ones, cheap and easy to find...

And, by all means, add more steel to that gusset as stated before. 12" is OK, but less is better. Also, why have different body mounts in the rear than in the front???? If you make your own body mounts, why not make them all the same??? :confused:
 
You shouldn't have a problem using just the body mount if you make them. If your not going to worry about the ride so much then just make your own. Trust me if you have 40+ tires you aren't to worried about the ride either.
 
Yea I ain't dumb enough to use hockey pucks, lol

Yea thanks for the input on my little drawing there i'll add some more metal like you guys said

I mean yea I can get some body bushing from JC whitney or wherever no prob I just didn't know weather they were neccesary with body lift blocks.

Back to the previous mention about moving the body mount on the actuall body itself. Would that be a better idea and if so how would I do that?
 
don't move the body mount!!! Keep it like it is and build to the factory body mount. If you start fawkin with it, it will get all hacked up and not be done like it should be (professionally)
 
Get some 4"x6"x3/16" or 1/4" tubing, Cut it to the desired length of the mount that you need. Lay it on it's side an draw the mount , when you cut the tubing diagonal, you will have 2 equal mounts, very easy actually. Once you hold the mount up to the frame, match it to frame height at the bottom an trim off excess, they will look factory. (Measure down 1 1/2" on one end an do the same on the opposite corner, draw a line an cut out with jigsaw, flip it over an do the same.)
 
Just wondering how you lengthened the frame for the new body?
 
StudNuts said:
wow.....all i can say is wow.

Who do I call to get my engine fog'd?
Click to expand...


All i can say is wow ... what a dick. You were young once too and in case u need reminding not everyone was born as gifted and omnipotent as u.

I have meet Ricky he is a GREAT guy. Doesnt claim to know it all or put down others for their bashing or ignorance. What u are doing is like picking on a baby for not being able to walk. WTF that shows complete ignorance.

Whatever man.. Just growup highschool is done and so should be the childish flaming shit.
 
jrraw23 said:
Yea I ain't dumb enough to use hockey pucks, lol

Yea thanks for the input on my little drawing there i'll add some more metal like you guys said

I mean yea I can get some body bushing from JC whitney or wherever no prob I just didn't know weather they were neccesary with body lift blocks.

Back to the previous mention about moving the body mount on the actuall body itself. Would that be a better idea and if so how would I do that?
Click to expand...


1, hockey pucks have been used for years to make a 1" BL. They work great. 2, yes 4wpw used to sell just the 2" pucks separately for ~$2.50. I don't have the part no. anymore, and I don't think they sell them anymore anyway...email them and see. 3, as Shawn said...why even use pucks if your building the mounts from scratch:confused: ...Build them two inches higher instead.
Are the body mount holes on the yj body really far enough out that these need to be 12"? Generally, shorter is better, and with a large full-length gusset being used, it'll be like an underbody mud/rock/snow plow.

Basically, do away with the lift pucks and design a shorter gusset. I'd use 3/16 also. Two often used methods are to either cut a 3x3x3/16" into the mount basically like you have it drawn, or use tube. You can use a leaf spring bushing instead, and also tie the cage into the mounts as well.
 
braxton357 said:
1, hockey pucks have been used for years to make a 1" BL. They work great. 2, yes 4wpw used to sell just the 2" pucks separately fo ~$2.50. I don't have the part no. anymore, and I don't think they sell them anymore. 3, as Shawn said...why even use pucks if your building the mounts from scratch:confused: ...Build them two inches higher instead.
Are the body mount holes on the yj body really far enough out that these need to be 12"? Generally, shorter is better, and with a large full-length gusset being used, it'll be like an underbody mud/rock/snow plow.

Basically, do away with the lift pucks and design a shorter gusset. I'd use 3/16 also.
Click to expand...

Oh I just heard Hockey pucks deteriorate really quick so they were a bad idea??? But yea i found the page for just the body lift blocks the other day you can get em in 1/2/3" sizes. Yea that was a dumb point thou when I can put the mounts wherever I want like you said. But yea In all seriousness I think it is actually 14" wider than the frame so those body mounts are gonna be long as crap. If there were a way to do a shorter gusset im up for suggestions but then I probably would lose strengh???
 
Just get some 2x4 steel, stand it up, miter one whole side of it so its like your drawing shows, the full 4" side will be on the frame for plenty of weld. The 2x4 will be stronger than using plate and easier to fab up.

I was just playin ricky, just pokin fun at your mini comp and wondering why i wasnt invited. Scarface you can chill you dont know me, nor do you know I know Ricky so STFU and mind your own.
 
i may have missed it in another thread, but why are you using the cj7 body? you've already stretched the frame so why not find, or buy another cj5 body and stretch it to fit the frame and it'll be a cj6. If you need money im sure there is someone looking for a cj7 body on ebay. that would seem to fix your body mount problem.
 
jrraw23 said:
Oh I just heard Hockey pucks deteriorate really quick so they were a bad idea??? But yea i found the page for just the body lift blocks the other day you can get em in 1/2/3" sizes. Yea that was a dumb point thou when I can put the mounts wherever I want like you said. But yea In all seriousness I think it is actually 14" wider than the frame so those body mounts are gonna be long as crap. If there were a way to do a shorter gusset im up for suggestions but then I probably would lose strengh???
Click to expand...


Something along the lines of this with a small gusset is what I would do and have done.
tieintoframekitmainhoop3794256.jpg
 
Something along the lines of this with a small gusset is what I would do and have done.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, Interesting, I like that gusset but The thing is I don't know how sturdy that'd be all the way around because the front three body mounts on either side will have to be put way out there. Plus that looks kinda hard to make, and rocks arn't really gonna be much of an issue because while, yes the Jeep will probably see uwharrie It will mostly be a mud bogger. Besides I have the Long tube headers that run outside the frame with turndowns right under the rockers so they will catch rocks b4 the body mount do. Plus the jeep Is gonna be on 44's and Im putting the Chevy Superlift 12" Swamprunner springs under it so It's gonna be waaaay up there anyway. Still havn't figured out how im gonna get in yet :confused:

Just get some 2x4 steel, stand it up, miter one whole side of it so its like your drawing shows, the full 4" side will be on the frame for plenty of weld. The 2x4 will be stronger than using plate and easier to fab up.

I was just playin ricky, just pokin fun at your mini comp and wondering why i wasnt invited. Scarface you can chill you dont know me, nor do you know I know Ricky so STFU and mind your own.
Click to expand...

Jon you know why you weren't invited, you hate mud, lol :flipoff2: Seriously thou Shane Is a friend of mine too, and was just tryin to back me up which I appreciate (at least he doesn't make fun of me thou :flipoff2: ), so no need need for hostility between the two of you :D . But yea the square tubing thing I what I'm pretty sure Im gonna do.

i may have missed it in another thread, but why are you using the cj7 body? you've already stretched the frame so why not find, or buy another cj5 body and stretch it to fit the frame and it'll be a cj6. If you need money im sure there is someone looking for a cj7 body on ebay. that would seem to fix your body mount problem.
Click to expand...

Yea the reason I'm using the new YJ body is because I found a good 95 YJ body for sale super cheap and I could never find a CJ5 body and trust me I tried, lol.
 
Back
Top