Bought a winch, now what? Battery lead questions.

From looking at this, I would say I need to order the 300+ AMP ones, and use 2 gauge wire. Guess I answered the question myself. If anybody else has needed input, please let me know. Thanks!
12V DC performance specs, XD9000i and XD9000 (first layer of drum)
Line Pull Line Speed Motor Pull by layer:
Lbs. (Kgs. ) Ft./min. (M/min.) Current layer/Lbs (Kgs.)
0 38 (11.6) 70 amps 1/9000 (4082)
2000 (910) 14.4 (4.39) 180 amps 2/8190 (3715)
4000 (1810) 11 (3.35) 255 amps 3/7500 (3402)
6000 (2720) 8.67 (2.64) 330 amps 4/7010 (3180)
8000 (3630) 6.88 (2.10) 415 amps
9000 (4080) 6.38 (1.94) 460 amps
 
Yo,
Your "175's" will become a psuedo fuse under a very heavy pull. AKA will fail at a really bad time. I would stay away from any quick disconnect because they will ultimately become problematic and will always be a inline impediance that is not wanted. If ya just got to have them, go with the highest rated ones you have listed to cover the 9K pound rating.

My $0.02 :beer:
 
If you're going to hard wire runs to the front and the rear, I would recommend #0 going to the rear to combat voltage drop.
 
Tacoma747 said:
From looking at this, I would say I need to order the 300+ AMP ones, and use 2 gauge wire. Guess I answered the question myself. If anybody else has needed input, please let me know. Thanks!
12V DC performance specs, XD9000i and XD9000 (first layer of drum)
Line Pull Line Speed Motor Pull by layer:
Lbs. (Kgs. ) Ft./min. (M/min.) Current layer/Lbs (Kgs.)
0 38 (11.6) 70 amps 1/9000 (4082)
2000 (910) 14.4 (4.39) 180 amps 2/8190 (3715)
4000 (1810) 11 (3.35) 255 amps 3/7500 (3402)
6000 (2720) 8.67 (2.64) 330 amps 4/7010 (3180)
8000 (3630) 6.88 (2.10) 415 amps
9000 (4080) 6.38 (1.94) 460 amps
Click to expand...


So question for you?
If you get the 20' or 24' wire setup from warn or any other winch maker to hook up to the rear of say the dodge I got they sell you 2 ga wire and 175 amp quick connecters, the same ones everyone sells is that not good enough? I have been using it on the trailer for some time and it works fine no heat or anything bout 10' or more 2 ga wire, but that is short pulls.
Next time I will put the amp meter on to see what amp I'm pulling on the winch.
This is on a tow rig and will not be used much but I know a lot of people on nc4x4 that use the warn red 175's with 2 ga. They are also the same ones on the ready welder I use with 12,24,or 36v don't know what amp the welder runs on but it has to be a lot to weld 1/2" steel.
JOn
 
When AMP rates those connectors, that's 24/7 usage, such as an industrial app. Intermittent pulls can go over those, and really, there aren't alot of times where you're continually pulling 6000lbs of load.. That's why it's OK.

My suggestion for the #0 was just to ensure that if/when he's demanding everything the winch has, whatever voltage is at the battery makes it to the motor, since undervoltage is what kills 'em.
 
Rich said:
When AMP rates those connectors, that's 24/7 usage, such as an industrial app. Intermittent pulls can go over those, and really, there aren't alot of times where you're continually pulling 6000lbs of load.. That's why it's OK.
My suggestion for the #0 was just to ensure that if/when he's demanding everything the winch has, whatever voltage is at the battery makes it to the motor, since undervoltage is what kills 'em.
Click to expand...

Thats what I thought about for the conectors. I know a lot of fork lifts that use the same conectors.
I will go with you 100% on the size of wire and voltage drop!!!
But in my case I think in the dodge I will use 2 ga because I found it for 1.39$ per foot and have not found a deal at all on the #0 .
Plus most will be used for jumping, inverters, lights and so on as maybe use the winch some but not much.
If I need to use it alot I will put it up front on the hitch I got.
It is just nice to have a hitch on the front,rear of the dodge and center and both sides of the trailer. in all 5 places to put it.
If someone is asking why the sides of the trailer, because I can!!
Really, it works good to pull wood, trees, tree stands, cleaning deer,and junk like that.
Jon
 
Well my battery is mounted in the back under the spare tire, so the cables going to the rear will be about 1-1.5' long MAX. I went ahead and bought the connectors, but can take them back if absolute need be. They are for 4 gauge, 175 AMP. The cables that come on the winch are 2 gauge, so I wouldn't see that it would need larger than that (but I know, overkill is good). Where is the best place to get good copper stranded cable, I guess 2 gauge, maybe 0 gauge to run to the front of the truck, and then 2 gauge to the connector on the front (as short of a length as possible).

I would think I could solder the 2 gauge to the 4 gauge connector without problems, just all the wire might not fit inside it.

I assume it should be OK to use the connectors, since Warn sells the same kind, etc?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks a ton for all the help.
 
welding wire is super flexable, and alot cheaper than the car audio stuff..
 
Tacoma747 said:
Awesome, just so happens I will be going to Machine and Welding tomorrow morning to pick up some MIG wire for work. :)
Click to expand...
If you have the 175 and make sure they are 2 ga and that is what I'm running. The 50AMP is 4 ga. I have done 5 ends with the 2 ga and 175 conectors. found them 24$ for a pair to the door. on the web. Northern had them for 40 for a pair. Got 2 ga wire from Agri Supply for 1.39 per foot and its welding wire.
Northern Tool also carry it but its in 25 or 50' pre cut in a box for bout 1.50 per foot.
The older Northerns still sell it by the foot. Batterys plus has it at 3.50 a foot to. :)
Jon
 
Got some 2 gauge welding wire today, $1.50 per foot, 20 feet so I spent $30 (no tax through work).

I guess instead of connecting the 2 gauge to my regular wire already run to the front of the truck, I will just run a new one all the way just for the quick connector to exclude any extra connections.

I paid $29 for each pair of connectors from a local auto store, but we buy alot from him and I figured even if I paid a couple bucks more it was faster and gave him business.
 
I haven't seen anyone mention the Tweco connectors yet. They tend to be more reliable than the Anderson type that people typically use, and they come in different current ratings to match larger cables.
 
My connectors are Federal Mogul, seem to be fairly nice. I got the hooked up today, as well as put an end on y jumper cables. The winch should be here Wednesday, then I need to build a receiver mount for it, as well as weld a receiver on the front bumper somewhere (along with more bracing).

Another question I have is:

The specs for the winch calls for a 650 CCA battery, mine is only 585 CCA. Will I be ok with that? And also, will it burn up my alternator to run the winch? I figure as long as I hold the idle a little high then it should be OK, but I would like to get a good idea of what I need to do beforehand.

I am thinking of running dual batteries also, if I re-route my exhaust in the back (cut it shorter), then I could make another battery box and put another battery on the opposite side.

Which would be better, to run two batteries (2 regular batteries, nothing special), or to run one Optima, or heck, one Optima and one regular battery?
Also, if I run an Optima, red or yellow?

Thanks for the help guys, I just want to make sure it gets enough power, and also that I don't burn up the stuff I already have.
 
you'll get plenty of yellow top fans, but my red top has been going strong for years. one optima imo would be better since they don't leak. one red top -the biggest one- has been running my 8274 just fine, to include that pull up the last hill at globe with the rear axle locked.

shift key is on the fritz it would seem..
 
Rich said:
you'll get plenty of yellow top fans, but my red top has been going strong for years. one optima imo would be better since they don't leak. one red top -the biggest one- has been running my 8274 just fine, to include that pull up the last hill at globe with the rear axle locked.
shift key is on the fritz it would seem..
Click to expand...


Thanks. I will look into one I guess, I have heard the yellow top is better for vehicles with winches, but are there any downsides to them? I will get an optima shortly, since that would be easier than doing dual batteries, but if a yellow top would be better than a red top for winching and such, then I might as well get one. If a red top is fine and won't be too drained after a long pull then I guess it would be fine. I know you say it pulled you up at globe, which was a massive hill, but IIRC Mike's truck helped some, but either way, it did good, I just don't want to take the chance, and I also don't want to get the yellow top if it is major overkill.

Whatever I get, I hope it fits in the battery box I already have :)
 
Tacoma747 said:
I know you say it pulled you up at globe, which was a massive hill, but IIRC Mike's truck helped some, but either way, it did good, I just don't want to take the chance, and I also don't want to get the yellow top if it is major overkill.
Click to expand...

True, his was there after the first 70' or so, but the rear axle was locked solid too.. that's a harrrd pull.
 
Rich said:
True, his was there after the first 70' or so, but the rear axle was locked solid too.. that's a harrrd pull.
Click to expand...

lol, I don't remember excactly how it went down (guess I wasn't 'involved' enough) How did it go, break, pull it up a ways to where his would reach, then go the rest of the way?

Is your redtop the 800 CCA and 1000 CA one?

Thanks
 
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