Broken/rounded/stripped/stuck fastener tricks

a_kelley

a_kelley

mechanical fixer
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Location
Rutherfordton
Best method is prevention, six point sockets on six points, preferably with cam locking sides like the gear wrench sockets(the thin walls do crack due to this but it's worth it, I'm sure it's quite a bit of force the cam puts on the socket, even by hand), and impact if it won't turn by hand.

Here's the ones I use in no particular order:

Vise grips/pipe wrench
Left hand drill/tap (not tried, but occasions would have worked of I had some, I guess easy outs count though)
Weld washer/nut
Cold chisel/prick punch
Undersized socket hammered on
Drill/tap
Cut head, slot bolt/vise grips
Air rachet with helicoil tap in a socket
Drill with extensions, universal joint, and drill bit in socket (temp switch on older Ford diesel at the back of the intake)
Slice sides of nut and chisel apart and off.
Can cut a groove or two in the side of a bolt to help it start straight and clean threads on install.
Concrete bits to drill hard steel (may destroy the bit, but who cares, gets it done.. when cobalt bits get dull, try that or tungsten carbide $$$)
Heard of heating with a torch and quenching the bolt with liquid co2 or liquid n2, never tried but should work with the given temp changes localized.
Irwin bolt grips, not tried but look good.

My personal favorite for exhaust bolts is to leave the manifold at the machine shop but the last time i did that he asked if I had torches and drill bits.... Went to pick it up and he gave up after the first bolt.

Any one else got any other tricks to share?
 
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fastener chart.jpg
 
Best penetrating fluid- half acetone / half ATF. Works better than anything else I could get my hands on. Heat. As much as the parts can stand but sometimes not a lot on aluminum. I worked for a week on a broken spring bolt in a Dana 60 housing. Finally melted a little piece at a time with ox/acetylene while digging it with a small sacrificed screw driver
 
Heat and penetrating oil FTW first.

If it breaks after that, drill and tap. Never had much luck with any of the ez outs or such things.

Use good tools and take your time. If the bolt starts to move, I alternate loosening and tightening until it comes out.

Where did you get the air ratchet and tap idea from? Let us know how that goes :)
 
Second the heat/candle wax, used that on some cat and o2 fasteners that seemed hopeless.
 
broncosbybart said:
Where did you get the air ratchet and tap idea from? Let us know how that goes :)
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Works good for tapping for helicoils on stuff like a Subaru idler that was prestripped for my inconvenience(used air ratchet to get the tap started and finish it since I wasn't pulling radiator, condensor to get a drill in there). Some people apparently don't know what a torque wrench is for. Also Japanese, Korean, and most aluminum pulls threads pretty easily..
 
a_kelley said:
Also Japanese, Korean, and most aluminum pulls threads pretty easily..
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That's mostly a function of using fine threads and small-ish fastener diameter for almost everything. Easier to damage the hole, easier to cross thread, easier to cause problems with too much torque. Can't really blame the aluminum alloys or the casting technology, because it's some of the best in the world.
 
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