Build my Wrangler for me.

Speed Freak

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2005
Location
High Point
Build my Wrangler for me.UPDATE.

Ok Guys,
I have been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I bought an 88 Jeep wrangler today, it's totaly stock with a 6 banger and 5 speed trans.(86000 miles). I want to know what you guys would do for my situation.
1- Second car but I will drive it on the street to and from 4-wheeling.
2- I want to hit some local trails a little mud mainly uwharrie type stuff.
Here is my thinking...
35's, Lift, Gears, Lockers in the rear.
But I have no idea what brand of anything to use. I want to keep it as low budget as possible. I don't mind used stuff if anyone know's where to get it.
Here is a lift I was looking at on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7982724351&category=33650

I can weld and am above average in the garage.
If you guys can give me some help on what to use and where to get it would be great.
Thanks
Guy
 
Well, where to start?
88 was not a good year for wranglers, It means you have the Puegot tranny(junk) , 4.2/258 (not the best of motors, but decent, no where near a 4.0) May have a np207, but maybe the np231 (crossover year) pray you have the 231 because there is basicly nothing available for the 207.

For the spring over, skip the kit you have posted, you can do it cheaper and better

A SOA(spring over axle) with stock springs will give you about 5 1/2" of lift. For a yj a sye (slip yoke eliminator) and CV rear driveshaft is a must with a soa.
The stock brake lines can be reused if you relocate them to the bottom of the frame rail instead of the top.
Stock springs will work for SOA but the stock front springs are very soft and weak and will bend over time. Rubicon express makes a spring specificly desingned for SOA, I am running moddified rear yj springs up front (7 leafs) and happy with the results.
You can get away without doing highsteer, you will need a drop pitman arm though and the draglink may bind against the spring under flex, high steer is the prefered option.
Waggoneer springs are also popular in the front or rear, they will push your axle about 2" forward/backward, redrill the spring perches and you can move the axle forward/backward also, the problem if you move the axle to far forward in the front is the steering will bind, A cheap easy solution is a steering box from an Chevy astro, It is identical to a YJ box except the steering arm faces forward instead of backwards.
For more wheelbase in the rear a set of XJ springs can be used, You will have to relocate your rear spring mounts though, This will give you about 7" more wheelbase. Gas tank mods and fender mods will also be nessecary.
When doing a SOA it is very crutial that the perches are welded on to get a good caster angle in the front and good driveline angle in the rear. Around 6 degrees of positive caster is what you want.
Tire size fitment after a SOA will vary depending on wether you trim your fenders or not, some people run 33's and can get them to rub with SOA and uncut fenders, I have 38.5's with heavily trimed fenders and no Rub.

You also talked about locking your axles, not a good idea with the dana 35 rear, especially if you are planning on running 35" tires, I would look into finding a explorer 8.8, xj dana 44, or xj 8.25 if you plan to run 35's and lock it
If you lok the dana 30 I highly reccomend upgrading to the lager 570/297 shafts
 
You will learn that in the world of offroading that not many things can be done low budget. To do it right as stated above and have something that is dependable and will last you are gonna have to fork over some dough. Take out a loan now.... :)
 
Get a winch first!!!

That will get you out of most any situation you get into, lifted, geared, and locked, or stock.

If you do a SOA, do a shackle reversal up front. There are numerous kits available for it for a YJ, but if you can weld and are above average in the garage, you may be able to handle it yourself.
 
Lee
Wow. That is just the kind of information I was looking for. I checked the transfer case and it it the 231 so I do have one thing going for me. You posted I can do the SOA myself, do I buy a kit or just buy hardware individualy?(where)
Tell me about full width axels do you recommend them on not? Is there anything I nedeed to look for when buying? Year,gear,Make,Brakes,steering?
Thanks everyone.
Guy
PS The motor runs great and seems strong but I like power and a V8 could be in the future.(a year or two)
 
Hey, if you need a hand, lemmie know. I am in Trinity, right around the corner. :)

Andy at Carolina Rock Shop might have the stuff you need to do the SOA (perches, etc.) His name is Zubz on here.

Ask John (Rockeater) or most of the others about running fullwidths
 
Speed Freak said:
Lee
You posted I can do the SOA myself, do I buy a kit or just buy hardware individualy?(where)
Click to expand...
Order some spring perches from the dodge dealer, the mopar spring perches are cheap and work great. I would reccomend welding you perches on rather than those bolt on deals definetly. Find a vendor that sells drop pitman arms (zubz on here should be able to help you out), I reccomend measureing for shocks after the lift so you can flex it out and get an idea of what you will need for compressed and extended lenghts. The SYE should be done before you order the sriveshaft in my opinion so you can measure for the proper length, it also best to wait to weld the spring perches on the rear until you have your SYE and driveshaft so you can correctly set the rear driveline angle. I am sure I am missing something but that is pretty much it.

Tell me about full width axels do you recommend them on not? Is there anything I nedeed to look for when buying? Year,gear,Make,Brakes,steering?
Thanks everyone.
Guy
Click to expand...

Full width axles depend on the type of wheeling you do. I chose to go with a waggy dana 44 and C&C 14 bolt rear, I am about 63" WMS. about halfway between stock and fullwidth. I wanted to keep it a little narrower because IMO it helps on the trails I run. Just like doing the spring over the perches will have to be welded on at the correct locations. Axles options are pretty much up to you, you will need a driver drop front axle, so a ford dana 44/60 or a Waggoneer dana 44 are your more common choices. For the rear axle the are many choices (44, 60, 70, 80, 14 bolt, 10 bolt, toyota axles, ect, ect) It all boils down to what tire you want to run and how hard you are gonna push it.
 
You did not say if you were new to wheeling or not. If you are the first thing I would do is check everything out on the Jeep, change/check all the fluids and check for proper mechanical function (t-case/trans/axles/brakes/u-joints/etc...). Then get together with a few folks and take it to Uwharrie and try it it out. After a few trips out in your Jeep you may have new ideas on the things that you want/need for your Jeep. You can have a great time at Uwharrie in a stock Jeep.

Congrats on your Jeep. :driver:

<><Fish
 
hmmm.... you guys are telling him full widths and stuff which is nice, but his plans dont really require that ? URE? Id tell him hit the FS section grab some 31"-32" tires and a rear locker and a winch... then come back in a year and see where hes at...

There are a ton of good used parts to help him out with out requiring him to toss his junk engine/tranny/tcase/axles just becasue they dont support him running 38" tires?

Just becasue you guys all need hugh ass rigs to concure URE not everyone does :flipoff2:
 
yager said:
hmmm.... you guys are telling him full widths and stuff which is nice, but his plans dont really require that ? URE? Id tell him hit the FS section grab some 31"-32" tires and a rear locker and a winch... then come back in a year and see where hes at...
Click to expand...

I would tend to agree.. and he'll be a better driver IMO because of it.. Though I hear with the Jeeps and the D35, a locker in the front might be better? Or better yet, find a guy selling a "Super 35 kit" used, and you'll be Ok for a while..

To start, my $.02 - Snag some Mud-terrain type tires, a winch, recovery gear, and start wheelin! The more built you get, the further you (typically) have to drive for a challenge.. (Devil's playground not withstanding)
 
I will agree with the guys here, look for someone upgrading their D35 to something else and go ahead and snag their locker and spare axleshafts. If you don't mind trimming, stuff some 31/32/33s under there and a winch on the front (and tow points front and rear) and go have some fun.

Heck...stock you can do alot of URE, durn near everything on a dry weekend. Some of us would be happy to help you out on the first trip, start you slow and work you up to the good stuff. Plus it gives you lots of chances to check out rigs and what is out there and working.

I am in the Greensboro area...and I usually lead a "stocker" run or two down at URE each year for guys and gals just getting started.

Sam Hinton
www.triad4wda.org
 
yager said:
hmmm.... you guys are telling him full widths and stuff which is nice, but his plans dont really require that ? :
Click to expand...

Read again, just answering the mans questions :flipoff2:

Notice I first suggested a 8.8/44/8.25 to get rid of the 35, I don't care how hardcore you are or are not, the 35 is a timebomb waiting to happen even on the street
 
all these guys are correct. I am in school so it went a little slower but it took me about year and around 3 grand to do everything right for fullwidths, but i also went ahead and got a new xcase as well.

I think you should just stick to some 33's or 35's if you are new, go to ure and check it out a couple times. youd learn alot.

ps. i am trying to sell some axles that would fit right in your jeep, spring over or under, 4.56's, detroit rear and truetrac front. you could just slide those under and run 35's easy.
Call me for more info, 919-812-9071
tyler
thanks
 
Shit, I do URE with open diffs on bald 31's and I'm just an OK driver. I don't take the hard lines on Kodak, but other than that, I've done it. Even a little wet (OK, not during a frog strangler, but muddier than I can walk on without busting my ass). Yeah, I get strapped once in a while, but it's more fun if you're trying to push the boundaries.

Ride it stock for a while. Then plan your upgrades based on your needs and what makes you feel better. That Jeep is perfectly capable of handling the trails you're talking about bone stock.

J

PS. IF you didn't want a different view on your question and needs, then go with Lee's advice, or look at what Yager built. But, for simple semi-DD stuff, you'll be suprised what a little Jeep and a light touch on the gas pedal will do.
 
you need some of these before you damage your rockers:



p608-1120167018.jpg




Rob
 
I don't know guys I only have 8"s if ground clearance stock rims w/215/75/15 tires?

I went over to spare time 4wd in Greensboro yesterday and they had some used 33" TSL's on steel wheels for $550 but they where 10.5 wide. However they did offer me a 4 " lift for around 1700.00 bucks woohoo I'm there!!(Can you hear the sarcasm)?

I like what I'm hearing you guys are definitely helping my thought process. I know I need to do some work on the jeep I just don't want to spend a ton of money now just to find out that I need go bigger in two months.

I am going to look at some parts tomorrow and I will give you a call Tyler.
Thanks
Guy
 
my humble opinion.
get some rock rails as pic'd above
run a small lift or fender trim ( I like the 2nd one)
run a 31" tire-MT
get a winch (a good one so you only buy it once)

have fun. when things get dented- cut em off
 
Go to Galloways and see what he has. I got some used but still great tread 32" swampers w/ steel wheels for 450. :)
 
I'd say like most have said, make sure the mechanics are sound. Then take it to URE one weekend. There's no need in sinking a bunch of cash in a ride right away. See what it will do mostly stock, which will probably suprise you.
 
Learning to drive it stock will do a couple things. Let you decide what you need/want and it will make you a better driver. Just my opinion
 
I'd prob go stock for awhile as well. It will do quite a few thing for you. You will learn what the rig can do factory, save money for future upgrades and find good prices on parts. I'd probably look in the traders at the local gas station. Leaving it stack will also let you lear about the rig itself. Every one will tell you the stock is crap but they all go rock climbing. Maybe you like basic trail riding/camping or you might like to get muddy. Most people here are a geared for rockclimbing the choices would be best up to you. Wouldn't hurt to start looking for a D44 and Ford9 both are plentiful and have fair prices. And if I were to raise one I'd do an SOA it has more flex than a spring under. If you want it to ride better buy a high brand 4" lift with SUA.
 
Everyone is talking about down the line a little.

IMHO, you need a winch FIRST!!!
Then maybe some good meats with an equal sized spare (no lift required).
Then some body protection, especially rocker guards caus your gonna hit those after you learn to drive the stock Jeep and try harder obstacles. If you don't care about body damage, skip this option.

Once you get more $$$ or when your stock sized (maybe a little bigger) tires wear out, then go for a lift, gears, and at least on locker with new tires all at once. Don't half-ass it and get a lift and tires and no gears, it can be done, but it sucks on the road and trail. You don't need a locker then, but while you are in the axles, a lockright isn't but about $200 and you can do it all at the same time to save time. However, if you put a locker in the rear, make sure you have 1 piece axles or you will spin your hubs, so you may want to save this upgrade (locker and 1piece axles) until later or save the money and build a decent new axle, like a ford 9" or 8.25 or whatever. With leaf springs, its easy to build the axle and just swap it in one afternoon.


Rob
 
Remember, with a winch, you need to make sure your electrical system is up to the abuse it may see. A good battery is never a bad idea.

Rob
 
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