Burning Money

[Scottal]

Junk

 

[Bebop]

Have a few 1.25" heims already wore out also... what are yall using for heims? These generic ones from barnes/ruffstuff aint cutting it.

EMF

The exhaust flex joint was blew out like my buddies sister after a bad friday night cause it was cheap

No flex joint for me. Make a bracket to hold the exhaust directly to the drivetrain instead of the chassis and you won't need one.


What are you doing for the trans cooler ? Keeping it where it was ?

 

[Scottal]

EMF



No flex joint for me. Make a bracket to hold the exhaust directly to the drivetrain instead of the chassis and you won't need one.


What are you doing for the trans cooler ? Keeping it where it was ?

Makes sense on the exhaust joint however I have no desire to start bending exhaust tubing again at this point. Picked up a "good" flex joint from summit to weld back in this ones place. Trans coolers are the same, still running two. The "small" griffin below the fuel cell and the derale above the fuel cell for just a pass through. May or may not have to wire up the fan on the second one for summer.

 

[Scottal]

Motor, trans, case, axles are in. Should have good progress this week.

 

[Scottal]

Almost done putting the party wagon back together. Got some wiring to finish up, seats, bleed brakes, load new tune, and put external panels back on. Still lacking paint for hood and grill also which isn’t a big deal being that it may be hoodless for summer months anyway. Motor sounds great with the cam and party muffler.

 

[Scottal]

Got the party wagon finished up and made a successful windrock trip over the weekend. Covered somewhere around 50 miles Saturday riding from windrock campground to the sand mines and back. Currently looking into a bigger radiator and changing the second trans cooler to a bigger one. Got the sway bar fixed for now and what a huge difference that made on the go fast side of things. Really happy with how this thing turned out overall!

 

[Scottal]

Small updates... the JHF chassis has been dropped off at Rev Limit Fab.

As for the party wagon, rear brake MC has been changed to match the front and improve brakes, bigger trans cooler to replace the small secondary is ordered and should be here this week, 4 tube bypass shocks are ordered for the rear, and 300m floater shafts from Branik have been installed in the rear 14b.

 

[Scottal]

Nothing real exciting happening here but progress is progress. I forgot how bad I hated cleaning axles. Anybody know the exact measurement of the 05up stuff from back of C to wms??

 

[rcalexander105]

Nothing real exciting happening here but progress is progress. I forgot how bad I hated cleaning axles. Anybody know the exact measurement of the 05up stuff from back of C to wms??

Pretty sure @Chris_Keziah has one in the parking lot

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Nothing real exciting happening here but progress is progress. I forgot how bad I hated cleaning axles. Anybody know the exact measurement of the 05up stuff from back of C to wms??

I'll go measure here in a few

 

[Jody Treadway]

I'll go measure here in a few

Doesn't your ruler start at 3"?

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Doesn't your ruler start at 3"?

If it does I'm in the wrong profession

@Scottal ~45.5" C to C, so should be ~13.25" WMS to C minus rotor thickness.

 

[Scottal]

If it does I'm in the wrong profession

@Scottal ~45.5" C to C, so should be ~13.25" WMS to C minus rotor thickness.

Thanks! I had 12 7/8 so I wasnt far off. Hoping to get these axles clean sometime soon and start cutting on stuff. Shooting for 66"wms or there about on the rear steer axle.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Thanks! I had 12 7/8 so I wasnt far off. Hoping to get these axles clean sometime soon and start cutting on stuff. Shooting for 66"wms or there about on the rear steer axle.

Accounting for rotor thickness your probably right pm, I could easily see them being 3/8"

 

[Scottal]

No updates but we did ride atomic ridge over the weekend.

 

[Scottal]

Little axle cutting over the weekend. We’re all of the kingpin 60s 1/2” wall tube?? Maybe this is a cucv axle? Either way I was impressed. 4” section is cut out of the gm60 and spindles are cut off the 14b. A buddy has drawn an adapter for the 14b tube to 05 sd C and will be sent to the machine shop probably this week. I need to find about 6” of thin wall 2.125” to slug the d60 back together. Wilwood pedals and a bunch of various tabs showed up last week for this chassis also. Trying to gather enough parts to make a good start on it before dragging it in the shop.

Had an extra set of hands Saturday and the actual measurements from back of C to wms on unit bearing for 05up sd is 12.5”.

Also rebuilt an old super joint for the short side shaft for this d60. That joint is OLD and has seen signs of a good time in the past but rebuild better than expected. I was pretty pleased it rebuilt as tight as it did.

Triple bypasses showed up for the party wagon from Diddys Big Block Race Shop, and will probably be cutting dads buggy apart this winter for trailing arms. Stay tuned.

 

[Scottal]

Slowly thinking through a few things in between the slow progress being made... Questions:

Anybody know exact or close measurement from center of kingpin to tie rod hole on arm for 40 degrees of steering with 8" ram?

Anybody know what degree steering you get on 05up factory knuckle bolt hole with 8" ram?

What degree should the motor and trans be set at while the chassis is level? Ive heard level and ive heard tilt it back 2-4 degrees.

Does a cbr pump share the same mount as a tc pump? Or is it actually bigger?

tell me tell me tell me

 

[Bebop]

What degree should the motor and trans be set at while the chassis is level? Ive heard level and ive heard tilt it back 2-4 degrees.

How often is your buggy sitting level on flat ground?
Doesn't matter

Does a cbr pump share the same mount as a tc pump? Or is it actually bigger?

Yes, same pattern, but the depth and pulley offsets are different


Rest of the questions I can't answer, there are other parameters to take into account before providing with an answer.
Also, 40 degrees only for steering angle ?

 

[Scottal]

How often is your buggy sitting level on flat ground?
Doesn't matter
This was my thoughts also but figured somebody had an opinion.

Yes, same pattern, but the depth and pulley offsets are different
Perfect

Rest of the questions I can't answer, there are other parameters to take into account before providing with an answer.
Also, 40 degrees only for steering angle ?

40 is max I can go without machining shafts. That's out of the cards for the time being on the front unless I get excited with a grinder. But the rear being 1550, I'm curious to know if somebody already knew what kind of angle was possible with 8" ram and factory knuckle holes. Will be using single ended rams to save weight and money. Could use a 2x10 tractor supply ram on the rear if necessary to max the 1550 shafts

 

[LBarr2002]

What degree should the motor and trans be set at while the chassis is level? Ive heard level and ive heard tilt it back 2-4 degrees.

tell me tell me tell me

When I was setting up my 5.3, I opened the hood of the yukon xl sitting beside it and slapped an angle finder on top of the intake, and set the jeep one the same. It's not critical, but back a couple degrees is stock.

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Nice diff cover mod btw

 

[NCJeeplover]

But the rear being 1550, I'm curious to know if somebody already knew what kind of angle was possible with 8" ram and factory knuckle holes.

Seems like this would be cheap enough not to worry about it. Jesse has already figured it all out.

Weld On High Steer Kit 05+ Full Hydro

Weld On High Steer Kit 05+ Full Hydro

www.jessehainesfab.com

 

[Scottal]

Seems like this would be cheap enough not to worry about it. Jesse has already figured it all out.

Weld On High Steer Kit 05+ Full Hydro

Weld On High Steer Kit 05+ Full Hydro

www.jessehainesfab.com

I dont disagree but I hate the idea of the weld on arm. I dont have the correct rods and stuff to do it the right way either. Less fail points without that and large money savings on not buying a 3x9 double ended ram.

 

[Bebop]

I dont disagree but I hate the idea of the weld on arm. I dont have the correct rods and stuff to do it the right way either. Less fail points without that and large money savings on not buying a 3x9 double ended ram.

FYI, I've have had decent luck with mig welding them with standard wire after a good pre-heat, controlled cooldown.
That said I wouldn't trust them for rockbouncer use.

 

[Scottal]

Not much to update but the wagon got rear bypasses from Diddy Big Block Race Shop, currently working on some injector madness, and my metal came in to splice the d60 back together for the JHF buggy.