Cannot go over 2500 RPMs?!

Jason924R

New Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2005
Location
Boone, NC
Just got the 4Runner back from being rebuilt again after it spit out the fluid when it overheated a couple of weeks ago. I pull out and it seems fine. It revs up the first time. After that it wont let me go over 2500 RPMs. It seems like it shifts from 1st to 5th. Does this seems plausable? I don't know what to do. I'm about to flip out and fuck it up until its not drivable and just be pissed off for a couple of years.

What should I do?
 
So you're saying in first gear it pulls just fine, then it shifts, and falls on its face? (You don't have a 5th gear in an auto)

if this is the case, your tranny guy didn't rebuild or adjust something correctly. Don't they do test drives? :rolleyes:
 
It's hard to explain. I shift into drive. It kicks the whole fucking vehicle. (Supposedly from slack in my diff from the locker or something I'm not totally sure.) I then start driving and no matter what, it wont go over 2500 RPMs. Floored, gently, pumping the pedal....

I'm royally pissed.
 
and if you pull it down into first gear manually? still the same? if it revs out, what about second?

I wouldn't drive it 1/2 mile with it like that... I am surprised you didn't just take it right back...
 
Sound like some thing is Fawked in the Valve body of the tranny or there is no vacumm going to the tranny to cause it to shift
 
I'm going back tomorrow morning. To show him what the hell is going on.

Yes, I'm thinking something along the lines of the valve body or vacuum.

Rich: I havent tried putting it in 1st or 2nd. I will on my way to work tonight at 5.

About these hard engagements...the whole rig kicks like a bronco. Do you guys think it could be the locker causing it?
 
Should'nt be the locker with the auto transmission(if it was manual, i could possibly understand) causing it to 'buck'. If mine is crossed up bad, and i go from reverse to drive, sometimes it will unload, but that is very VERY rarely....happened maybe 3-5 times over the course of the ~3 years Ive daily driven my truck with 35's or better and a lockright in the rear. I think your best bet is going to be to take the truck back to the guy/gal that did the work.


Josh
 
You are seriously gonna burn up that trans driving it like that. Not that you seem to care.
 
Maybe a throttle kickdown cable didn't get reattached or fell off? it would seem to me that it should go over 2500 in OD with that occurring though.

Does It rev freely in neutral or park???
 
I dont really know what I would do if it burned up. I would probably be happy and say fuck it so I could save for a v8 that comes with an acceptable transmission.

I'll dick around with it on my way to work.
 
What exactly was rebuilt, and how does it rev above 2500 in nuetral?
How does the engine respond when it "drops"? Is the engine sputtering or stalling?
 
Try this scenario: There is a variable control switch in the transmission that tells the tranny-computer loop where the throttle is once the throttle is opened a bit. That switch has the cable from the throttle body actuator arm attached to it. If that cable is out of adjustment or the switch is screwed, the transmission doesn't know whether to scratch its watch or wind its ass, and the computer will limit the engine speed if the input signals are way out of bounds. Eventually the Check Engine light will rear its head.

Go to the throttle arm end of the cable and take a close look. Look for the little metal piece crimped onto the exposed portion of the tranny cable near the throttle actuator arm. The little crimp should just show its outer edge past the end of the cable sheath with the throttle closed, and don't let it worry ya, but that cable should leave some slack in it.

Best case scenario, the cable is disconnected on one end, or the cable is adjusted too loosely. Worst case scenario, the cable wasn't adjusted properly, is too tight, and the switch has been pulled apart inside the tranny. Most likely, that cable or the switch is the problem.

These transmissions will easily go 200K miles with reasonable care and maintenance, and I speak from three experiences on that. If there's a weak point, it's the same as most autos: big tires and high gears building heat and stressing the torque converter and, as Stankoma can testify, breaking flexplates. If you off-road it, keep it cool and just change the flex plate at 100K and save yourself the shoe leather. :D
 
On a '92, the crimp on the cable may be a ball about half the size of a BB.

Back to the switch. If the output side of the switch is shorted to ground (like it's broken and exposed in tranny) or the switch is unplugged, the computer interprets that as a loop failure and doesn't know where to set the internal line pressure. The default is high, so you get a lurch when putting it into gear. In addition, if the switch is shorted on the voltage supply (input) side of the switch, it will affect the voltage levels in the computer which will cause the computer to do wierd things which will make the truck run poorly, if at all, and it will quickly burn up the portion of the computer circuits involved. If you insist on continuing your attempts to drive it, you're going to have to set aside the money to replace the computer, too. There's a pretty good chance you've already screwed the pooch.

Just from what you've posted so far, whoever is doing your work is not doing you any favors.
 
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