Cast iron welding north Charlotte

strange1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Location
Elkin
I'm looking for someone to repair a cracked bellhousing correctly. Preferably convenient to exit 16 from I-77
 
Mid 50's chevrolet.
 
SM420. I needed a bellhousing with the small center-bore but that would also accept the larger flywheel. I stumbled across this one, and once the crack is fixed all it will need is the hole for the clutch fork dug out a little and it will be a direct bolt in using stock parts (from various years).
 
Weld it up with Ni rod. Drill out the crack if you can find the end of it to keep it from migrating.

Pretty easy weld with a stick welder. Just read up on prep and post weld procedures to keep it from cracking again.
 
Was reading today about preheating to 500 degrees then burying it in sand after the weld, but it also said that doing very small welds and keeping it as cool as possible would work. I'm not so good with a stick welder, but am willing to try..... If that's my best option.
 
I wouldn't bury it in sand. It's not as simple as just buying it in the kids sandbox. Doing it wrong is worse than letting it cool at room temp. The point of it is to control the cooling process to prevent cracking. I'd wrap it in fiberglass to slow the process. I've done it before with success.

Post heat to control the cooling process if necessary. The kitchen oven works well. :D
 
Last edited:
I don't have to worry about drilling a hole at the end. It is cracked all the way through from the center bore straight down. If you look closely you can see it. Since I would have to bring the stick welder home and plug it into the dryer outlet, I don't guess using the oven to preheat would get me into any more trouble. Lol. Seriously, me welding it would need to be the last resort, but I am willing.

image.jpg
 
I live in Davie and pass 77 via 40 to work daily. I also can weld this using proper procedures and Nickel Rod, preheat and post heat. The rod isn't cheap. Let me know if I can be of service. I've your really particular I have a friend who forge welds all his cast uses a square gas welding filler and does all the fancy sand work to slow cool it. He also will be very expensive but perfect. I can also give you his number upon private message request.
 
1015141934a.jpg 1015141933.jpg bet yours isn't thid bad! It was aluminum but required alot of work regardless.
 
Not that bad at all. I am debating just bolting it on like it is, but figure now is the time to fix it rather than taking it all apart violently in the woods somewhere.
 
Any ever tried using this style wire in a MIG welder? https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0857244. Also in crawl magazine there was an article about a high silcone content wire that was more pliable allow you not have to pre and post heat while welding axle tubes.
 
Any ever tried using this style wire in a MIG welder? https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0857244. Also in crawl magazine there was an article about a high silcone content wire that was more pliable allow you not have to pre and post heat while welding axle tubes.

Silicon bronze wire is more welding dissimilar metals than for cast. It's great for welding stainless to copper and for welding low quality steel sheet metal to high quality tubing.

There is an allow for mig welding To cast iron.

It's a special, expensive wire that requires a different gas mix. Esab and crown alloy both make some. @stinkbomb can hopefully chime in with details.

All my cast repairs I pre heat the whole piece and the weld area, make the weld and post heat as long as I have patience for, tapering off the post heat as time goes on.

I then wrap in aluminum foil, then fiberglass insulation, then a moving quilt.

I've had good luck with stick welding nickel 55 rods over the nickel 99, as well I have knocked all the flux off and used nickel 55 rods with TIG.

Can you confirm whether it's cast iron and not cast steel? Take a file or chisel and get a chip. Dark grey-black is iron, light grey-silver is steel. Just hoping for the best...
 
Last edited:
Silicon bronze wire is more welding dissimilar metals than for cast. It's great for welding stainless to copper and for welding low quality steel sheet metal to high quality tubing.

There is an allow for mig welding To cast iron.

It's a special, expensive wire that requires a different gas mix. Esab and crown alloy both make some. @stinkbomb can hopefully chime in with details.

All my cast repairs I pre heat the whole piece and the weld area, make the weld and post heat as long as I have patience for, tapering off the post heat as time goes on.

I then wrap in aluminum foil, then fiberglass insulation, then a moving quilt.

I've had good luck with stick welding nickel 55 rods over the nickel 99, as well I have knocked all the flux off and used nickel 55 rods with TIG.

Can you confirm whether it's cast iron and not cast steel? Take a file or chisel and get a chip. Dark grey-black is iron, light grey-silver is steel. Just hoping for the best...
I've never used either, but good to know information.
 
Back
Top