centrifigal (sp?) timing rebuild kit?

Chuckman

Chuckman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Location
Huntersville
Ok, so I took apart my Willys' dizzy (actually a 70 nova 307 swap) to put in new points and find that the centrifical (sp?) advance setup is way loose. The springs are there, and the weights are in there, but they just kinda flop around. So, not knowing anything about this, I just put it all back together to see if it would run until I get some advice. We set the dwell, the timing and man it purrs. Like new. Until you get it out and drive it and it surges and lopes pretty hard. Is this a kit that I can get, or are the dizzy pins that the weights ride on shot? I can only imagine the guts in there are just flopping around and changing the timing needlessly. I did see that when we were setting the timing that it would every so often blip a bit with the timing gun- move the timing quite a bit, then settle down. I just want to know if this is a fixable issue or do I need a new distributor, which would be bad- I would have to drop the motor to pull it. :beer:
 
You can get rebuild kits with new springs and plates (cams? cant remember what they call those)

They used to keep them in the "performance" section at the local parts houses (you know where they used to keep jets, needle/seat sets and all the other useful stuff thats since been replaced by chrome APC LED cigarette lighter cup holders) I know Mr. Gasket made 'em but wishn I could be more help on where to find them now.
 
MODERNIZE, points are cool in an old school way.

Jegs..... http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/755778/10002/-1/10679

$90 plus shipping, drop it in, run a new hot from the key ( or use the old if it's not a resistor wire ) you are done.

can find parts anywhere for it, come with cap, coil and guts, you'll need new wires.

AND you'll have fixed you advance issue, and this one is adjustable, including adjustable vacuum advance.

I got on of these for my '73 GMC, works awesome !
 
too add,

rebuilding your old dizzy is certainly a viable option, as long as the posts that the weights swing on are not worn thru, which is usually the case. Also that the inner shaft will rotate with out binding.

Age is working against you here. Iuse dto love playing with the old GM window Dizzy's

finding folks who know what "DWELL" is, how to set it and what tools are required is rare these days. I've had co-workers who would flip out when a point's ignition vehicle came in the door. Some of these guys were older than me !
 
Yep, the problem might be the weight posts. They just seemed to move too much on there. When we touched them, there was some twist in there that seemed to be from the weight holes too big or the posts too small. Or it was supposed to be loose fit, and the springs were the issue- not being tight. So, I have only ever installed and worked on GM TBI's and this was 'cool' for about the first month. Now that it still is fighting me, the cool has worn off. I just hate to drop the motor to put this in!!! So, we cant seem to find a true ported vac source on the 2GC carb and we have it to what is what I would consider manifold vac. Would this work with this carb - no definite ported vac source? I am also running an externally controlled alternator, would this be ok? Sorry to sound ignorant, its just that I am spending every waking hour getting this ready and have no research time- and zero carb engine experience.
 
Looking at the pics- the thing might not fit- is it much taller than a standard unit? You can imagine how shoe-horned in a V8 is in a Willys. But man does is sound bitchin!! So long T90!! I seriously may have to cut a window into the cowl to get it in an out, and use a CJ style grate to cover it up. No way Im dropping the motor every time I need in there. Were gonna do this right the first time.
 
Actually, once it's THERE, and all the wires are connected, you won't have to mess with it again till it's time to tune up. that could be years.

HEI is a little taller and a little larger in diameter, but HELLA more reliable and easier to deal with.

If you do this, just remember you need a true 12v constant power lead to the unit, many vehicles used a ballast resistor or a resistor wire lead to the coil do drop voltage. you loose a little junk under the hood as an end result as well ( coil and associated wiring between it and the dizzy)

To make the HEI work you need ONE wire, the 12v hot, thats it, one more if you want a tach.

I'm partial to the racing style plug wires, they seem to handle the heat better, and I can make them to MY specs. not deal with what comes out of a box. ( most parts store wire sets are a joke )

Vacuum will be the same as what you are running now. I think I'm running mine of manifold vac, as the ported vac on my carb doesn't seem to pull.
 
If you want HEI, and room is at a premium, check this out: http://davessmallbodyheis.com/

It fits in your existing dizzy and uses an external coil like you currently have.
I have used 2 of these. 1 was doa, but I was amazed at his CS. I called the next day I had a new one overnighted on my door with a call tag for the defective one (shipping pre paid) along with a note apologizing and his cell number to call if no one answered at the office.
 
OR.........
you can get a rebuilt unit from the auto parts place, about $100, put in a protronics unit and be good to go.
 
Ok, got the MrGasket weights/springs/bushing kit and will try that first as its $8. I looked at the regular HEI and that thing is half as big as the Willys. I bet that I could get the remote coil unit to work, but thats still big. As far as the resistor wire, where does it go, how much drop does it limit and can I get one at a box store. I dont think it has one and I want to make sure that my bases are covered.
 
Back
Top