chainsaw sharpening

RenegadeT

RenegadeT

no shirt,no shoes,no dice
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Mar 24, 2005
Location
Stokesdale-Greensboro
I use my chainsaw only a few times a year. When I sharpen the chain by hand, it always pulls to one side. I am strugglin with the handfiles to get both sides even, and wondering if one of the tools from Northern will be worth it too me.
There are the electric grinding wheels like this, its got soem bad reviews, about like I would expect for a cheap power tool from Northern.
or this bar-mount one looks OK, pretty good reviews.
I'm not sure about this PowerSharp system. I just saw this in the Northern flyer, that's what prompted me to check it out.
What is everyone here using, what works, what doesn't?
 
My $.02... having grown-up in & worked in my fathers lawnmower/chainsaw shop...

  • Hand filing is at best for touching up a semi-sharp chain, NOT for sharpening one that's been in the dirt! When it's starts spitting dust, rather than chips, STOP! You're just wearing out parts (added stress on chain, bar, sprocket, & AntiVibe buffers)
  • Haul the chain to a shop for sharpening, they can match the angles on BOTH sides (why yours cuts crooked) and cut the "drags" (determines how much "bite" each link will take). FWIW, "sharpening" should only remove enough of the tooth to get into the fresh CHROMIUM coating the cutter
  • Buy a 2nd (even 3rd) chain... they're cheap enough and increase how long you can cut without downtime. There are generally 3 types of "cutters" available... "Chipper" = almost fully rounded, "Semi-Chisel" = rounded w/ flat top/side, and "Full Chisel" = 90* cutter and the best performer. If you're doing a lot of downed trees (usually clogged with dirt)/landscaping timbers/cross ties, the more expensive carbide-tipped "rescue" chain may be a better value in the long run

I'm once again reminded of the "Doonesbury" cartoon that graced my dads cash register for years...
Customer: Can you tell me which of these chainsaws has an "automatic cut-off"?
Salesman: Yes sir, they all do... Any part of your body it touches, it "automatically cuts off"!

IOW, be careful! I've seen my fair share of saw induced injuries over the years and come close to to a few of my own
 
RenegadeT said:
I use my chainsaw only a few times a year. When I sharpen the chain by hand, it always pulls to one side. I am strugglin with the handfiles to get both sides even, and wondering if one of the tools from Northern will be worth it too me.
There are the electric grinding wheels like this, its got soem bad reviews, about like I would expect for a cheap power tool from Northern.
or this bar-mount one looks OK, pretty good reviews.
I'm not sure about this PowerSharp system. I just saw this in the Northern flyer, that's what prompted me to check it out.
What is everyone here using, what works, what doesn't?
Click to expand...
A buddy of mine has 1 from Northern,it works very well,hes used it on his saws and mine,did a fine job.
 
There is a 50+ page thread on arboristsite.com (the pirate4x4 of the chainsaw world) regarding this Northern Tool sharpener:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449
It seems to be the way to go and is on my Christmas list. They go on sale for about $100, and work real well once you get the hang of it. I hand file all of mine, but if one side gets beatup more than the other, you just about can't file it back right.
 
I buy my extra chains from
http://www.baileysonline.com/default.asp

I have five so when one starts to get dull I change it. I've tried sharpening by hand and the dremel with mixed results. So when mine need sharpening i've got a good friend that sharpens them for me on a sharpener like the one from northern. makes em good as new.
 
Caver Dave said:
  • Hand filing is at best for touching up a semi-sharp chain, NOT for sharpening one that's been in the dirt! When it's starts spitting dust, rather than chips, STOP! You're just wearing out parts (added stress on chain, bar, sprocket, & AntiVibe buffers)
  • Haul the chain to a shop for sharpening, they can match the angles on BOTH sides (why yours cuts crooked) and cut the "drags" (determines how much "bite" each link will take). FWIW, "sharpening" should only remove enough of the tooth to get into the fresh CHROMIUM coating the cutter
  • Buy a 2nd (even 3rd) chain... they're cheap enough and increase how long you can cut without downtime. There are generally 3 types of "cutters" available... "Chipper" = almost fully rounded, "Semi-Chisel" = rounded w/ flat top/side, and "Full Chisel" = 90* cutter and the best performer. If you're doing a lot of downed trees (usually clogged with dirt)/landscaping timbers/cross ties, the more expensive carbide-tipped "rescue" chain may be a better value in the long run
Click to expand...

x10 on all points...I've got 4 or so chains for each of my saws, touch them up with a file when needed, pay a few bucks to get them sharpened when they need it. Don't let them get to far gone, and they last a long, long time.
 
Well, I've def. put this in the dirt and got it down to spitting dust. I was able to bring it back by hand, its throwing good chips, just way off-center. I guess I'll get a new chain, and bring the old one in for sharpening.
I don't use this enough to justify the $100 power grinder...maybe, one can never have enough power tools :lol:
 
I've never had the need for anything more than this type of sharpener:

awww.northerntool.com_images_product_images_19723_lg.jpg


The guide keeps the file at the proper depth, and also has an angle reference on it. I usually clamp the saw by the bar in my bench vise to stabilize it so I can get a good position when doing each side. I can't stand even a slightly dull chain, so I keep mine in great shape. It usually only takes one swipe with the file across each tooth to bring them back to 100%.
 
Caver Dave said:
My $.02... having grown-up in & worked in my fathers lawnmower/chainsaw shop...
  • Hand filing is at best for touching up a semi-sharp chain, NOT for sharpening one that's been in the dirt! When it's starts spitting dust, rather than chips, STOP! You're just wearing out parts (added stress on chain, bar, sprocket, & AntiVibe buffers)
  • Haul the chain to a shop for sharpening, they can match the angles on BOTH sides (why yours cuts crooked) and cut the "drags" (determines how much "bite" each link will take). FWIW, "sharpening" should only remove enough of the tooth to get into the fresh CHROMIUM coating the cutter
  • Buy a 2nd (even 3rd) chain... they're cheap enough and increase how long you can cut without downtime. There are generally 3 types of "cutters" available... "Chipper" = almost fully rounded, "Semi-Chisel" = rounded w/ flat top/side, and "Full Chisel" = 90* cutter and the best performer. If you're doing a lot of downed trees (usually clogged with dirt)/landscaping timbers/cross ties, the more expensive carbide-tipped "rescue" chain may be a better value in the long run
I'm once again reminded of the "Doonesbury" cartoon that graced my dads cash register for years...
Customer: Can you tell me which of these chainsaws has an "automatic cut-off"?
Salesman: Yes sir, they all do... Any part of your body it touches, it "automatically cuts off"!
IOW, be careful! I've seen my fair share of saw induced injuries over the years and come close to to a few of my own
Click to expand...
Yep, what Dave said. I keep 6-8 spares and just drop off a few at a time to get sharpened at what? $5 each max...
 
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