Cheap paint job

[upnover]

Thinking of doing a tractor paint for a vehicle. Yeah, I'd have someone else to do it. me, I'd be run city!
My questions are:
Who's done it?
What kinda paint did you use?
What kinda primer did you use?
What kinda clear did you use?

End results, were you happy with it?

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Thinking of doing a tractor paint for a vehicle. Yeah, I'd have someone else to do it. me, I'd be run city!
My questions are:
Who's done it?
What kinda paint did you use?
What kinda primer did you use?
What kinda clear did you use?

End results, were you happy with it?

Industrial enamel. Pick a quality brand. Mix to ratio as directed only add hardener. I'd ask the paint supplier about the ratio.
I use Sherwin Williams.
Used some tractor supply brand stuff years ago. Did well but didn't add hardener. Took longer to cure but was fairly durable.

Primer was always the same brand. Lately I have bought paint that doesn't require it because of clean metal.

Never have cleared the enamel.

Local O'Reilly's is a paint shop, because of this I have thought about trying some real automotive paint. Working with guys for over 15 years and doing everything but the spray part it isn't rocket science. It's mostly prep and a clean place to lay it down.

Long time ago a guy I know had a Scout in equipment grey. He waxed it and it held up for years.

Biggest challenge is getting it to lay flat without orange peel. I think my results are directly related to temps of product and material. Danged if it hasn't always been cold or steaming hot in the sun when I've painted.

 

[upnover]

Industrial enamel. Pick a quality brand. Mix to ratio as directed only add hardener. I'd ask the paint supplier about the ratio.
I use Sherwin Williams.
Used some tractor supply brand stuff years ago. Did well but didn't add hardener. Took longer to cure but was fairly durable.

Primer was always the same brand. Lately I have bought paint that doesn't require it because of clean metal.

Never have cleared the enamel.

Local O'Reilly's is a paint shop, because of this I have thought about trying some real automotive paint. Working with guys for over 15 years and doing everything but the spray part it isn't rocket science. It's mostly prep and a clean place to lay it down.

Long time ago a guy I know had a Scout in equipment grey. He waxed it and it held up for years.

Biggest challenge is getting it to lay flat without orange peel. I think my results are directly related to temps of product and material. Danged if it hasn't always been cold or steaming hot in the sun when I've painted.

I have a guy gonna give me a guestimate of laying down the paint and finish touches on what I don't do well enough. Only body work will be fixing a couple small fiberglass pieces. Which I may clean up and let someone who knows more than me, even though I watch Vice Grip Garage and Robby Layton.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I have a guy gonna give me a guestimate of laying down the paint and finish touches on what I don't do well enough. Only body work will be fixing a couple small fiberglass pieces. Which I may clean up and let someone who knows more than me, even though I watch Vice Grip Garage and Robby Layton.

What's getting the make over?

 

[upnover]

My 99 Chevy 3500 Dually. Paint is ... Hell not sure what to call it. it's crackly on the hood and top is different, almost like paint is evaporating, leaving some spots just showing the primer. Sides aren't too bad, really just needs buffing I'd say.And small spots of cracking on back corners of the dually fender flares. Someone got just a little too close to something.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

My 99 Chevy 3500 Dually. Paint is ... Hell not sure what to call it. it's crackly on the hood and top is different, almost like paint is evaporating, leaving some spots just showing the primer. Sides aren't too bad, really just needs buffing I'd say.And small spots of cracking on back corners of the dually fender flares. Someone got just a little too close to something.

That's a big girl too. I'd probably hire the pro. A lot of prep and a lot to rework if it went really south.

 

[Lurch830]

I painted my '94 Ranger around '08 since it had faded to about 4 different shades of blue & I had traded some hickory logs for a silver bed cover.
I used spray bomb primer on the bad spots & tractor paint/hardener from TSC
I didn't use a clear since I was cheap & had no $$$...biggest lessoned learned was to definitely use clear because it will fade if you don't. Helped paint a Jeep years later with clear & it turned out much better.
I was happy with it since it was one consistent color afterwards and only cost ~$100.

During:


After:

 

[rodney eppes]

My 99 Chevy 3500 Dually. Paint is ... Hell not sure what to call it. it's crackly on the hood and top is different, almost like paint is evaporating, leaving some spots just showing the primer. Sides aren't too bad, really just needs buffing I'd say.And small spots of cracking on back corners of the dually fender flares. Someone got just a little too close to something.

The top & hood usually go first due to heat & exposure, & probably what your seeing is the clear coat flaking off. Then that exposes the dull paint under it & it all looks like s**t. Probably the cheapest paint would be the "one step acrylic" paint. With hardener & UHV protection additive, it shouldn't fade. Not for a long time. Clear, requires a two step paint, base & then clear. Your Painter man can better advise you. Either way, it can be scratched, & ease of fixing the scratch is various opinions! I don't know.

 

[upnover]

The top & hood usually go first due to heat & exposure, & probably what your seeing is the clear coat flaking off. Then that exposes the dull paint under it & it all looks like s**t. Probably the cheapest paint would be the "one step acrylic" paint. With hardener & UHV protection additive, it shouldn't fade. Not for a long time. Clear, requires a two step paint, base & then clear. Your Painter man can better advise you. Either way, it can be scratched, & ease of fixing the scratch is various opinions! I don't know.

Acrylic, enamel, All of this stuff is foreign to me. And no, it's not just the clear coming off, the clear, the paint kinda looks like a piece of aluminum foil that's been wadded up, then an attempt to straighten it out. That's the hood mainly, the top has just faded mostly down to the primer. I know there's gonna be a LOT of sanding. The rest of the truck really just need to sand to scuff it up so paint will stick. Times like this I wish it were white, as in my experience black shows every single flaw. I'm not gonna worry though about small dings, I really don't wanna get into the filler game, but, who knows, I may.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Easiest thing to do with black or white for a cheap-ish paint job is a decent single stage paint instead of base/clear. Clear coat scratches white anyway. It may need to be buffed every 10 years though.

Late 90s GMs were bad about the paint coming off down to bare metal. Bare metal is going to need sealer, primer, then color.

The spider webbing/snowflaking on the hood obviously needs to be sanded down and anything loose removed. Whatever is stuck on there good can just be scuffed up and painted over.

As always with paint, prep work is everything!

 

[ramjo]

I painted my jeep a couple years ago with tractor supply International white....no clear coat because I just wanted to see how it would last without it. It has a tendency to streak/stain and not clean up though. I think it's dulled out too but its a light color so it's not that big of a deal too me....almost looks like a matte finish now. Ive had some flake off on the tube fenders in places but I think I'd say that's my fault and not the paint.

 

[rodney eppes]

I started out with a 1972 CJ-5, with metal hardtop. It was all Canary Yellow. Factory enamel. It shined & looked great until it rained. Maybe it was the rubber window gaskets, but that damn thing would have black streaks running down it. And the longer it stayed on, the harder it was to get off. I've seen a few white vehicles that tend to do that too. Never seen it on darker colors, not that I noticed.

 

[marty79]

Chip I used to paint tons of Jeeps in Boone with the Rustoleum Oil Based stuff and it works amazing for what it is. $40 a gallon, by the time it's thin enough to spray, makes almost 1.5gallons and that's enough to spray the entire truck. Looks great, especially if you get the gloss. You could even put automotive clear over it for a real shine. Paint is all in the prep work and if the prep work is done well enough, this Rustoleum paint will surprise you how good it looks...some go as far as buffing it out and really making it shine and can't even tell. I like it cause it's oil based and obviously repels water/moisture better than any other paint. Food for thought
Then there's Monstaliner that I just bought for this one Jeep I'm redoing and that stuff now comes in any color possible and comes in satin or gloss and it's pretty good stuff...not cheap cheap but doable. If you wait a few months, I will be painting my Suburban with the Monstaliner next after this jeep so I'll have a few for you to see if you want.

 

[marty79]

Probably the cheapest paint would be the "one step acrylic" paint.

I've painted a bunch of jeeps with this too and it works well, but I wouldn't say it's "cheapest" lol, Them quarts are kinda pricey and for a full size truck/suburban would take easily several good hundred just in paint easily, Jeep XJ take 4/5 qts to get a really good full coat plus some touch ups.