Choosing a lift for the tj

Chris the xj man

Active Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2009
Location
gastonia Nc
I got a 3.5 black diamond lift on my tj now but wanting to go long arm. I have narrowed it down to 3 lift kits somone please help me with some in put all of them are nice kits.

Either rubicon 5.5in long arm, or pro comp 4inch long arm with fox shoxs, or 4 inch BDS lift.
 
The Rubicon Lift is the better of the three hands down.

Will you be installing the lift your self. If so the RE is the way to go, If you able to have it welded the Clayton long arm is really rice, but requires some welding to install.

Clayton Long Arm (Click Pic for Link)
aclaytonoffroad.com_images_PD_LJ40.jpg

Rock Krawler is another nice one, But it also requires some welding.

Rock Krawler Long Arm (Click Pic for Link)



You might contact Mars Fab or Carolina Truggies or RIDES of Conover and see what they can long arm your current lift for, Might come out better and have a custom suspension, Who knows Worth a Call or PM.
 
go with the rubicon express i had there 4.5 kit it was awesome. rough countrys new lift is real good to contact brandon at rides
 
BDS

They are all good kits and BDS has a lifetime warranty. I have had a few problems with the Rubicon Express track bars.Stay away from rough country unless you want to replace it in the next 2 years.
 
The Rough Country LA lift is awesome, no issues with mine what so ever. Brandon the owner of rides has the RC LA lit on his Cherokee too
 
BDS makes great products and I don't think it would be a bad decision.
but if you have the ability to do some welding, I would check out the clayton LA if I were you!

you would not be disapoited in rough country at all

I think they kind of got a bad name a few years back when they were pumping out crappy products. they've really turned things around in the last year or so (it seems).
 
Well I have installed all if the lifts you mention except the procomp. I honestly think you'll be happy with any of the 3. RE, Procomp or BDS.

I also have installed the Rock Krawler kit.

Observations:

All have good customer service
RE kit is front radius arm not 4 link. RK and BDS are a true 4 link.
RKindicates you can run theirs as a 3 link as well.
BDS kit is heavier than all the others. Just beefier.
BDS has the best warranty.
All the kits are well built.

If it were mine I'd do BDS first, RK second. I wouldn't want to spend all that money and have a radius arm suspension.
 
The problem with radius arm kit is that it relies on a trac bar to keep the axle centered and that can put too much strees on things.
 
Actually the problem with radius arms is that they want to twist in opposite directions when flexed. The trackbar defininitely causes deflection in the bushings, but that's why we run bushings/joints/etc. The opposing tension and compression from the twisting motion of the radius arms is what eats bushings and joints and can rip brackets off the axle.

With that said, the RE kit is a very good kit and has a proven track record of durability. They have been around longer than all of the other brands, and it's still popular for a reason, because it works. In my opinion, a 4 link doesn't drive and handle as precisely as a 5 link or radius arm setup (one with a trackbar). It has to do with forces and angles, but basically the trackbar works directly to keep the axle in line, while the 4 link relies on the same 4 control arms that also control front to rear position and axle torque. I'm sure now someone will come along and talk about how great their 4 link is, but I've got a worn slap out Teraflex 5 link longarm on my TJ that still runs down the interstate at 80mph no problem.
 
Clayton sells a 3link too. I talked with Walter Clayton when i was re-doing my jeep about 3 link vs radius. He said the only reason he started offering the 3 link is cause that was the only reason people were buying other lifts. He said the dfference in flex is negligable on a tj. A buggy with 16" travel shocks and no fenders would be different.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php?cPath=17_42&products_id=291
 
A radius arm front will tend to unload on climbs as well. Mean your rear has to do most of the pushing. I speak of this because I know my front unloads and I have very little traction on steep climbs like the waterfall at Callalantee. I wish I had never done radius arms. I'll be building a 3 link eventually.

Anyway the BDS is a 4 link + trackbar (5 link).

The teraflex kit is also nice.

Truthfully all the kits are decent. I just don't like radius arms and with so many other options why do it? Make sure they all provide everything, shocks, extended brake lines etc etc. Then compare.
 
I have RK genII 3 link and have hated it since the day I put it on. It unloads terribly on hill climbs, is almost uncontrollable on the road and eats track bar bushings like candy. I called RK to get help and was basically blown off after dropping a couple grand with them. I can't say I'd ever give them a recommendation.

While it's not a LA, I love my 4.5 RE on my ZJ.
 
i just kinda skimmed through, but what size tires are you trying to run and what kind of wheeling do you do. If i had to pick three companies i would go with rubicon express, clayton's, or rock krawler. i have the RE long arm kit with the tri-link rear and only reason i have it is cus i got it brand new for really really cheap. if i ever go to build another wrangler and dont build the components myself, i will probably go with clayton's. i run the 3.5" coils, 1" body, and 1.75" spacers. i have too much lift for 35's. although i also have flat fenders up front and tubes in the back. the 5.5" coils will sit way too high for 35's unless you are running factory fender flares, no spacers and no body lift. i think with my current set up i could easy clear 38's but thats kinda pointless unless i stretch the wheelbase.
 
im looking to stretch later. right now i got 33's but wanting to run 35's and have tube or flat fenders only wanting to run 4 inches of lift, u go to high then its to much and un fun. i still wanna be able to drive my wrangler on the road some until i can get a nice tow truck for a dd. i really only have time to wheel maybe one a month or every two months. i just want my tj to handle better on the road. i got the rugged ridge tie rod thing for the front and it was a piece of crap bent it the first day at uwharrie

i narrowed it down to 2 the Clayton's or bds
or i could just run the lift i got now and just get long arms and put a one in body lift on and safe a few bucks.
 
if u do flat fenders wont that stop the rubbing?

Its only at full bump, my bump stops are shot and that would most likely solve the rubbing

ai298.photobucket.com_albums_mm279_burrellsjeep_Linked_justwashed.jpg
 
i narrowed it down to 2 the Clayton's or bds


Between the 2 the price is $50 difference. The Claytons is Radius arm front unless you buy the $200 upgrade for the 3 link front.

I'd go with BDS.

or i could just run the lift i got now and just get long arms and put a one in body lift on and safe a few bucks.

I wouldn't do a body lift. There are plenty of people running 35's with 3" of lift. Just do the flat fenders and cut the rear. IMHO
 
here is the most up to date photo of my jeep. no longer have that front bumper though. those are 35's on it in the pic. i got plenty of room for bigger tires but i would be better off taking out the coil spacers. my tires do not rub at all on mine
ai78.photobucket.com_albums_j81_highrollintj_100_2784.jpg
 
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