clutch issues...

ChrisM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Boone
I cant get my clutch to work... i push the pedal down and nothing. The slave cylinder is working and pushing the clutch fork. I believe the clutch is still good because i can start it up in gear and drive around. I had this problem before after my jeep sat for a while without being started or driven around, but all i did before to "fix" the problem was started it up in gear and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. I tried that this time, but no luck. The only difference is that i now have a different transmission, but everything else is the same except where the slave cylinder is mounted... but i woundnt think that would matter, i still get the full movement out of the cylinder. (motor is a chevy 350 and the transmission is a sm465)

If anyone has any ideas please let me know, i need to get this working asap before i get fined again for inspection being out. Or if anyone around the Raleigh area has any expertise in this i might could somehow get it to where ever and see if anyone can figure it out. I really want to get it rolling around again so i have a car of my own to start driving again, plus i need to get this inspection taken care of.
Sorry if i left out any information that might be needed, im about to fall asleep.

Just please let me know if anyone knows anything.
Thank, Chris
 
the master cylinder is ok, it pushes fluid and everything fine... i dont see any problems with it
my bad for not putting that in the first post, but thanks for the thought
 
chris PM me i can get you out of the inspection fine if its an issue
 
You mention you changed trannies.. what did you have before?

Could be your new transmission's clutch fork has a different throw ratio and your slave isn't pushing far enough?

Hell, maybe your clutch is just stuck to the flywheel? start it in gear with the clutch pedal pushed (make sure you have room for the rig to move FIRST!), and maybe it'll break free?
 
There isnt any clutch shrapnel stuck in the pressure plate is there?? I had that problem in my cj when I first bought it. It had the borg + beck type presure plate and had the centrifugal springs from the old clutch lodged inside the pressure plate.
Also how far is the fork moving when you depress the clutch? Does it move at all?? Or is it very hard to depress??
 
Rich said:
You mention you changed trannies.. what did you have before?

Could be your new transmission's clutch fork has a different throw ratio and your slave isn't pushing far enough?

Hell, maybe your clutch is just stuck to the flywheel? start it in gear with the clutch pedal pushed (make sure you have room for the rig to move FIRST!), and maybe it'll break free?


i had a sr4 before
Rich, those two things you mentioned are exactly what i was thinking... ive tried the starting up in gear thing a few times, but nothing. I had this problem before and that is what i did and it started working again. And about the clutch fork not being pushed far enough... ill have to double check again, but from what i remember they were pretty similar in where they pivoted and the lengths of them. (ill go take another look to be sure) If this is the problem, how would i go about fixing it... right now the slave cylinder pushes againt the clutch fork from when i start pushing the pedal until it goes all the way down. So, i guess my question is, if i were to get a slave cylinder that has a longer stroke (would that be a way to say it, i dont know), would the extra distance that it has even be able to be used? Reason i ask is, when the pedel is pushed all the way down, the slave cylinder would still only push to where it pushed before.
Does this make any sense?



As for the clutch shrapnel being stuck in the pressure plate... i dont know, i woudnt think so... nothing looked out of place or messed up when the motor was out, but i dont know... It did work fine last time i drove it though.

And for how for the clutch fork is moving... im not sure on an exact distance, but it is moving. Also, it doesnt feel any harder to depress than before. Its a new slave cylinder, my old one broke when i tried adding a "spacer" to get it to push the clutch fork further.

Thanks for the help so far
Chris
 
I may be missing something here, but if you are getting nothing starting it in gear your clutch is not engageing at all , its stuck or not mating up to the flywheel, this being said it does not matter if your fork is stroking or not, your clutch is already away from the flywheel, is there a booger on the input shaft keeping the throwout bearing from releasing all the way.
 
Sounds like the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. Chain it to a tree, crank it in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in and snatch it. That 350 should pop it loose. Mite want to put it in low range to keep the speed down.
 
Possible cause, release bearing out of fork or turned sideways? or release bearing seperated and not able to push the pressure plate? Or, wrong or installed backwards, release bearing and it is stuck inside of the pressure plate?
 
"ive tried the starting up in gear thing a few times, but nothing"... i meant it to say, ive tried the starting up in gear thing a few times, but clutch is still stuck


ill go see if i can take a look at the bearing and see if its messed up or see if the clutch fork has moved... im almost 100% the bearing is on the right way though, but something could have shifted

if nothing there, i guess i can go rip a tree out of the yard and see if that does it (well i guess this can be my excuss to finally put the newly painted links back in after doing a day of nothing)

thanks again
 
If clutch is stuck to flywheel the vehicle would move when started, the input shaft is splined to clutch, so it can not be stuck to the flywheel, the clutch is either stuck open or there is something wrong around the throwout bearing hanging up. Its possible the input shaft is smaller than clutch splines if you did not check, an clutch is spinning on the shaft. Also the front bearing retainer on the transmission should match throwout bearing diameter, if you did not check these things I would. If you put the vehicle in gear an start an it does not move I promise you its not stuck to the flywheel.
 
maverick said:
If clutch is stuck to flywheel the vehicle would move when started, the input shaft is splined to clutch, so it can not be stuck to the flywheel, the clutch is either stuck open or there is something wrong around the throwout bearing hanging up. Its possible the input shaft is smaller than clutch splines if you did not check, an clutch is spinning on the shaft. Also the front bearing retainer on the transmission should match throwout bearing diameter, if you did not check these things I would. If you put the vehicle in gear an start an it does not move I promise you its not stuck to the flywheel.
He's already said he drove it around the block.
 
I got an idea :confused: How bout just pull the transmission and see whats wrong????? Instead of waiting two weeks for someone on here to 'guess' what could have been wrong how bout you see for your self? Just a suggestion.


ps. Didnt I tell you to buy this stuff new when it was apart? :flipoff2:
 
no one has said anything about the syncro gears in the trany. I guess none of you ever drove a old truck with a non sycronized trans in it.

acts just like what your describing very hard to down shift unless you double clutch and hard to get in first. more than likely your clutch is not disingaging completly and every one else has posted what to look for there but if all of that is fine the problem could be in the trany its self with the syncro gone.
 
HEY, the pilot is bad, locked up and grabbing the input shaft. Pull the tranny and replace the pilot, and rplace the clutch while your at it.

The no start is most likely the clutch switch, jump it out to test it quickly.
 
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