Compressor shut off valve

marty79

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Location
Newton, NC
After 8yrs, this has finally started acting up..it won't stop compressor, keeps running.
Is there anything "serviceable " inside it or time to buy new one. Thanks
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its possible it can be serviced but a complete replacement is ~$20 and can be bought usually at lowes or home depot (if you are handy) or almost always at northern tool in a plug and go variety.

Do you have a drain valve on the tank? If not, its quite common for the tank to start rusting inside and then a small fleck to get up into the pressure switch and clog the passage. In this case removal and a pipe cleaner may make it work...however if thats the cause the compressor tank is about done anyway.

If you dont have a drain on your compressor with a quick valve that you will actually use, add it now as well.
 
Ron said:
its possible it can be serviced but a complete replacement is ~$20 and can be bought usually at lowes or home depot (if you are handy) or almost always at northern tool in a plug and go variety.

Do you have a drain valve on the tank? If not, its quite common for the tank to start rusting inside and then a small fleck to get up into the pressure switch and clog the passage. In this case removal and a pipe cleaner may make it work...however if thats the cause the compressor tank is about done anyway.

If you dont have a drain on your compressor with a quick valve that you will actually use, add it now as well.
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thanks Ron, it does have a drain, i've drained it daily/every other day all it's life, changed oil and the works. I see they're not that expensive but are the $20 ones the way to go or I see more "heavy duty" ones for like 45ish...don't mind spending the extra if it's worth it but if $20 fixes it then so be it. thanks
 
marty79 said:
thanks Ron, it does have a drain, i've drained it daily/every other day all it's life, changed oil and the works. I see they're not that expensive but are the $20 ones the way to go or I see more "heavy duty" ones for like 45ish...don't mind spending the extra if it's worth it but if $20 fixes it then so be it. thanks
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IMHO - the sqaure D ones without the integral disconnect switch are the best and longest lasting. But they dont have the kill switch so you have to wire one of those in.

One other possibility to check depending on the style. Some of them use a springnut to set the pre-load and the cut off cut on set point. Ive seen one vibrate the nut alomst completely off and not start the compressor. If yours is configured backwards(NO/NC), its possible its backed off and now the contacts are just staying together.

Be very careful adjusting that tension spring though, you could run the pressure up higher than the tank is rated for and if there isnt a purge vent and make an air bomb.
 
Ron said:
IMHO - the sqaure D ones...



Be very careful adjusting that tension spring though, you could run the pressure up higher than the tank is rated for and if there isnt a purge vent and make an air bomb.
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This and this. Square D is great, I'm even using one on my crawler for the on board air, not waterproof or anything and it works every time.

Also about the air tank bomb, its a good habit to pop the safety valve once or twice a year to make sure it works and isn't rusted up or filled with dirt daubers.

At work someone comes by from the department of labor, boiler inspection department once every year or two and literally pops off the safety valve to be sure it works and charges the shop owner $70 for a "boiler" inspection. Air tanks in commercial or industrial use have to be inspected. He checks our compressor, portable air tank and cheetah tire bead seating tank valves, and hits all the shops in our area usually the same day.
 
Tim C said:
Also about the air tank bomb, its a good habit to pop the safety valve once or twice a year to make sure it works and isn't rusted up or filled with dirt daubers.
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Oh it works, its scared the hell out of me couple times while under car working going off at 160psi lol, whew so yeah it works alright
 
Since I was spray painting the other day, & had turned my regulator down to 60 psi. Turned it back up today, then noticed the compressor was only going to 110 psi. I even have a mark at the 120, just to be easier to see. Hmm, maybe that's why my impact doesn't seem as strong as it used to be. Maybe it's the gauge, but there are 2 gauges, tank & regulator, reading the same. So, I tinkered with it. I got it up to 130, shut off, & 100 restart. I don't dare go any higher! My on-board air on the CJ, I used a Square D unit like on well tanks, & have set it where I wanted it [70 psi].
 
The cheap replacement is hit and miss. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. That's my experience. But, when i paid $50 for my compressor it's hard to buy a better one.

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rodney eppes said:
Since I was spray painting the other day, & had turned my regulator down to 60 psi. Turned it back up today, then noticed the compressor was only going to 110 psi. I even have a mark at the 120, just to be easier to see. Hmm, maybe that's why my impact doesn't seem as strong as it used to be. Maybe it's the gauge, but there are 2 gauges, tank & regulator, reading the same. So, I tinkered with it. I got it up to 130, shut off, & 100 restart. I don't dare go any higher! My on-board air on the CJ, I used a Square D unit like on well tanks, & have set it where I wanted it [70 psi].
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i haven't bought one yet, been playing around with the 2 adjustment screws on it...so far i got it to cut off automatically at 155/158, cuts on at 122 so far so good...but then like 7th time it didn't cut off and boom, the pressure valve went off at 162psi and daiuuum, scared the hell out of both of us working right there in front of it lol. this week gonna go buy a new one cause now my air hose is leaking and my regulator :( wth, dang it so now i have a reason to go buy all of em haha
 
marty79 said:
i haven't bought one yet, been playing around with the 2 adjustment screws on it...so far i got it to cut off automatically at 155/158, cuts on at 122 so far so good...but then like 7th time it didn't cut off and boom, the pressure valve went off at 162psi and daiuuum, scared the hell out of both of us working right there in front of it lol. this week gonna go buy a new one cause now my air hose is leaking and my regulator :( wth, dang it so now i have a reason to go buy all of em haha
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That's all way too high. You're killing your compressor. Max should be 120 or so.
 
awheelterd said:
That's all way too high. You're killing your compressor. Max should be 120 or so.
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nah, it came brand new setup to run at 155, the way it's been ever since 8yrs ago till last week when it started with the bad valve. 120psi is weak, my air gun kicks butt at 140+, anything less and I don't even bother. I also been running full synthetic oil in my compressor since the first oil change and still runs as quiet and hard as it did day one.
 
marty79 said:
nah, it came brand new setup to run at 155, the way it's been ever since 8yrs ago till last week when it started with the bad valve. 120psi is weak, my air gun kicks butt at 140+, anything less and I don't even bother. I also been running full synthetic oil in my compressor since the first oil change and still runs as quiet and hard as it did day one.
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What compressor is it?
 
Saw a small compressor in a junk pile today, sitting out with home garbage. It had the vertical tank & wheels, which were off. If I'd known sooner it there, I'd picked it up! Parts, if nothing else!
 
Well dang nobody local sells them pressure switch for these wth lol. Gonna order one but dang, couldn't believe all 4 places I went nothing. Fixed my regulator though, now I can turn it up to 165 woohoo, my gun really likes that. I think I'm finally getting the 975ft/lb. Torque lol
 
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