Converting to rear CV driveshaft

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
'89 Runner. My rear driveshaft is the standard 2-U-joint style.
Going to give a shot to converting to a CV style.
How does one tyically go about this? Can you remove the U-joint from the lower end, and just replace it w/ the a front CV/flange? I've read the older ones are a little stronger.
If so, how much length is added? I currently have about 3" to spare on the slip yoke.
 
First off, do you have leafs or coils in the rear, I can't remember what year they switched.

If you switch to a CV (double cardan) style, you need to turn the pinion up on the axle, so that it points directly in a straight line to the t-case output. W/ coils, if link are adjustable, it can be done, if not adjustable, cut/weld.
If leafs, then you may can get away with a shim between axle perch and leaf pack if you do not have to turn the axle up far, but if its alot, either make a thick shim, or new spring perches.
 
Mac5005 said:
First off, do you have leafs or coils in the rear, I can't remember what year they switched.
If you switch to a CV (double cardan) style, you need to turn the pinion up on the axle, so that it points directly in a straight line to the t-case output. W/ coils, if link are adjustable, it can be done, if not adjustable, cut/weld.
If leafs, then you may can get away with a shim between axle perch and leaf pack if you do not have to turn the axle up far, but if its alot, either make a thick shim, or new spring perches.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I knew about that - I have leaf springs. I have a few shims on hand already; the lift and angle isn't severe, so it shouldn't take too much to get it aligned.
Which reminds me - aparently the leafs are stated to have a caster of 9 deg. Does thsi mean that assuming stock shackles, the axle will be at a 9 deg angle? Or is it w/o shackle, e.g. eye-to-eye?
And any advice on doing the actual CV conversion?
 
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