D300 FRONT Output bolts... sealant?

Caver Dave

Caver Dave

Just holdin' it down here in BFV
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Pulled 3 of the bolts holding the FRONT output to the case to install the NWF "reverse" kit (cables route back to front and PULL into low, rather than front to back PUSHING into low).

Those 3 bolts had something on them (may have been green loctite or some anaerobic??) and appear to open to the case (could smell the gear oil on the ends).

So, what's best to re-seal them with? One vid (don't recall the channel, but the guy is an automatic savant) used regular pipe dope/ PTFE for them and the "plugs" (the kit came with AL pipe plugs to replace the cutesy "4WD" switch & flimsy stamped AL plug for bracket clearance)... but that's definitely NOT what was on the bolts/plugs.
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Pretty much anything will work. I'd go with some blue loctite so that the cover doesn't work loose with the aluminum flexing. But RTV or gasket maker, would also work fine, or probably even some old cheese. It's a D300 filled with heavy gear oil :D
 
jeepinmatt said:
Pretty much anything will work. I'd go with some blue loctite so that the cover doesn't work loose with the aluminum flexing. But RTV or gasket maker, would also work fine, or probably even some old cheese. It's a D300 filled with heavy gear oil :D
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Agreed... However this case is bone fawking dry and I would like to keep it that way... versus the current D20 that leaks from EVERY place possible!
 
That 300 of yours has got to be a unicorn....mine sounds like your D20. Of course, mine is clean now, laying on my garage floor wrapped in plastic. But still. I'd have to agree with Matt. Blue loctite would probably do it.

Although a quick search says Loctite 2701 (green) points in the direction of what was there. It's an oil resistant thread locker.
 
Scooter402 said:
That 300 of yours has got to be a unicorn....mine sounds like your D20.
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Highly doubtful it's anything but a stock D300 with fairly recent reseal
Scooter402 said:
Although a quick search says Loctite 2701 (green) points in the direction of what was there. It's an oil resistant thread locker.
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Highly possible... could just see a green hue on those bolts and took an abundance of arse to get them broken loose (came out smoothly after that)
 
When I did the 4:1 gears and the cable shifter on my D300, I put it back together taking meticulous care on all bolts and mounting surfaces, cleaning them, then using gasket maker or a gasket plus a thin layer of gasket maker.

It leaks like a fucking sieve. I'm going to pull it sometime in the next year to try to seal it again. That is reason alone I might spend $2k+ on a freaking Atlas.
 
Caver Dave said:
Highly doubtful it's anything but a stock D300 with fairly recent reseal
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Oh I'm sure. I was just amazed at there being a D300 in existence that doesn't leak. I basically thought of mine as any Marine thinks of any piece of mechanical equipment, whether it be fixed/rotor wing bird, wheeled vehicle, or what have you....it's fine if it leaks. It's when it stops leaking that I worry about it. :laughing:
 
My old flipped D300 was basically leak free other than a constant residue around the rear output. Even the shift rails sitting in an oil bath stayed dry.

The one I currently have, well, lets just say it was easy to trace my trail around Uwharrie back in September :laughing:
 
Just cover the Bolt threads with RTV and thread them back in. I also replaced all of the bolts with flange head bolts. A little extra sealing power :D

I have used anaerobic gasket sealer on other parts of the Dana 300. Specifically the shims behind the front output shaft.
 
I used grey RTV on mine. Acts as a thread sealant, and as a thread locker. The RTV also helps in dampening of normal vibration. Just let it sit long enough the cure. I'd recommend over night. Also, chase the thread in the holes and clean them good with brake cleaner before putting the bolts in. Hope this helps
 
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