Dana 30 and 35 Truss options

jeepinmatt

jeepinmatt

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What is out there in the world of trusses for TJ axles? Particularly the D35? Also, do they bend more from vertical loading or front to rear loading?
 
I would imagine they would snap shafts and explode before bending the housing, there is nothing good to be had there. As far as trusses goes either make one use something like a Clayton link truss. IDK
 
jeepinmatt said:
What is out there in the world of trusses for TJ axles? Particularly the D35? Also, do they bend more from vertical loading or front to rear loading?
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I've heard of a truss for a 35 where you take all the brackets off and put them on a 44 or an 8.25. Supposed to do wonders for the life of the 35 if it doesn't actually spend time under a vehicle.

I think with 760s, HP and non-disco the 30 is worth keeping. I've been thinking of doing an under-truss from knuckle to knuckle.

I think a lp30/d35 combo is probably not worth bothering with.
 
From my experience with the D35 it is not worth Trussing I exploded mine the first weekend out with 35x12.50's I was not fortunate enough to break an axle I axle stripped the spider gears and sent the pieces through the cover.

So that tells me from what I have heard about weak axles and the fact I destroyed the spiders and the carrier there is nothing worth trussing.

I would put my efforts into a D44 or an 8.8. I put a 8.8 in my this spring and have not had an issue and trust me even though it is just a 4 banger and I'm really hard on the right pedal when I am on the rocks. That is one of the reason I did in the 35 the first weekend out.

As for the D30 every thing I have read and experience says it is a pretty good axle maybe truss it and and put some chromoly shafts.
 
Thanks guys, but Im not really looking for opinions on the D35, I've had plenty of problems with the one in my jeep before I trussed it with a D60. Its for a friends stockish 4cyl TJ who wants to keep it light and high clearance. He runs 31's with a lockrite, uses a lot of finesse, and is a very good driver. Im about to regear it to 4.88 and while the axles are out, he wants to put a truss of some type on at least the rear. The best use I've found for a D35 housing is a setup jig for axle swaps, but a D35 with a truss should be stronger than one without, right?

Back when my jeep was closer to stock, I had the Con-ferr brand truss that hung under the axle. I don't even see those advertised anymore. Not sure if they did any good, as I broke everything in the axle at least once. Looks like the current options are the Superior one which replaces the diff cover, and the BTF one which is weld on. Fab-tech also comes up in searches, but I can't find it on there website.
 
The superior truss is decent if you weld it on. I used one my YJ for a couple of years. Only broke two shafts once it was installed.
 
amajeepman said:
The superior truss is decent if you weld it on. I used one my YJ for a couple of years. Only broke two shafts once it was installed.
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If you weld it on, how do you get the diff cover off? It looks like one big piece from the pictures I've seen.

carolinatruggies said:
That link sucks....
SKU: RK00533TJ
Its a Weld On Rear Cradle under TJ build and upgrade parts
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This one: http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=186
So you think something like that, plus maybe some kind of rock ring to stiffen the housing, and then build my own gussets off of there? Can I steal your dimple die for a day? The Superior truss is around $350, so the Rockkrawler stuff seems like a more affordable option.
 
jeepinmatt said:
This one: http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=186
So you think something like that, plus maybe some kind of rock ring to stiffen the housing, and then build my own gussets off of there? Can I steal your dimple die for a day? The Superior truss is around $350, so the Rockkrawler stuff seems like a more affordable option.
Click to expand...

I really wouldn't worry about the rock ring. You can only do some much to that axle and the chance of him actually hurting the housing vs breaking a shaft is kinda slim. I would do the rock krawler truss and roll with that. It seems to be the cheapest of the bunch so far.
 
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