Dana 35 Locker Options

WCURoverd90

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Location
Lake Wylie, SC
Hello all,
I am buying a Cherokee with 6 inch lift and 35's this weekend. I need to look at lockers for it and need some advice on what to purchase and what direction to go with this. Thanks in advance
 
If you're dead set on locking a D35 on 35's, get the cheapest locker you can (lockright), carry spare axleshafts and be intimately familiar with how to change them.
 
Lockright and easy on the skinny pedal.

Or upgrade your shafts to 30 spline Alloy Usa chromoly shafts and run a 30 spline detroit or ARB as your locker.

Best to just upgrade your axle to an 8.8 or something stronger though.

Give us a shout if we can help.
 
WCURoverd90 said:
Hello all,
I am buying a Cherokee with 6 inch lift and 35's this weekend. I need to look at lockers for it and need some advice on what to purchase and what direction to go with this. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

The best advice is this: Save your $$. Do not lock the Dana 35 with 35" tires! You'll spend more time swapping shafts than wheeling.

Get a cheap 8.8 or dana 44 and swap in it if you really wanna run a locker with the 35's.
 
Thanks for all the comments. I will most def. be putting this forum to use. I will probably upgrade to a 44 or something like that soon.
 
I also wouldn't put a dime into a Dana 35. I do 8.8 swaps for $1200 complete. They would have at least 4.10s, limited slip locker, disc brakes. Its a really good upgrade for any jeep
 
That all sounds good. I have worked on my Defender 90 for years now but really dont know a whole lot about the jeep setup or what people have that works and what seems to be a waste of money. I had a wheeling buddy recommend go ahead and weld the rear end and when it gives up go ahead with a swap. What about welding the front. The jeep will be trailered everywhere so I didn't think welding it would be such a bad idea for now.
 
I ran 35s on my TJ early on with a Dana 35. Spare shafts definately cheap, pickup a set for less than $100 and an Aussie Locker for $249. In my opinion Aussie is the best. Also 3.07 gears and a auto trans helped me out from breaking. never had any problems
 
Well lets say I choose to switch to the Dana 44. What, other than the axles will I need to complete the project. I have a full shop at home so Im not asking about the tools, just the product. Working on rear ends and axles is not my strong point, just because I have never had the need to change axles/gears etc. before.
 
nothing except wrenches and some jackstands. Start looking for a 44 on Craigslist, Ebay, etc. You can also do a 8.8 but brackets and welding is required. Still alot better than a D35
 
WCURoverd90 said:
I had a wheeling buddy recommend go ahead and weld the rear end and when it gives up go ahead with a swap. What about welding the front. The jeep will be trailered everywhere so I didn't think welding it would be such a bad idea for now.
Click to expand...
Hey WCURover90, I have been checking around the intrawebz, trying to find out about the pros, & cons of the [Lincoln Locker] welded spider gears. 1st. thing, as long as you aren't driving on the street, this would be the cheapest way to lock the diffs. For me , it's the only way, I would lock the the D35 rear. It's not worth putting any $$$ into. If I do this, I will also weld the tubes to the carrier housing. The front diff, poses other possible problems. If you weld the front spiders, then the left axle stub, along with the front driveshaft will rotate, driven by the front wheel. Unlockable hubs, would cure this. Also, The right axle will always turn, unless it has a center disconnect, or an unlockable hub itself. Now what I've read, as far as streeting any of this, If you weld up the D35 rear only, tires wear faster, harder to turn, especially if no track bars, or even worse without sway bar. Both the pro's, & the con's, feel strongly about their opinions, as to whether it's safe or not. Also if it handles worse, or no difference. As far as the front goes, on the street, (center shaft disconnected) you'll feel some left wheel drag, In two wheel drive (rear), because the wheel, diff., & driveshaft, are all turning. This won't be too drastic, but gas mileage may suffer A little. This will only work, in two wheel high, & will chirp the tires on pavement, while turning. One last thing, not sure if your Cherokee will have A front axle disconnect, or not. If it has locking hubs, then it won't. Even if it doesn't have locking hubs, it still may not have A center shaft disconnect, & the front driveshaft, will always turn. I'm still on the fence, about either, for the street. Maybe someone could convince me, to go one way, or the other.
 
if you need some spare 35 shafts, let me know. I've got one set left (non c clip style) for 50.00

If it was mine, i would pick up an 8.25 from another xj. there are several for sale on NAXJA for around 150.00. If you can find a 29 spline, even better but the locker options are more expensive. Or if you find a good deal on an xj 44 that would be better only because of locker options (in my opinion)

I wheel my 99 with a 29 spline 8.25 with 35's with a powertrax locker and have no problems (even though i carry spare shafts) the good thing about the 8.25 is both sides use the same length axle shaft so you only have to carry one rear spare at a time.

let me know if i can help further. I'm just down the road from you.
 
if you do keep the 35 I would upgrade to chromoly shafts first before you lock it. But like the others I would got for either a 44 or a 8.8. You can usually find a stock tj 44 with all the right brackets for around $1200.
 
I only gave $300 for my tj 44 and Landon a toy rear is not better when your front axle is 5 lug.
 
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