jeepn-jason
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
Is there anything tricky about replacing this seal? I have heard something about reshimming the yoke or something? Hopefully I just need a big socket and a big hammer.
Dana 44 front Pinion Seal Replacement
- Thread starter jeepn-jason
- Start date
3DCrawler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2005
- Location
- Granite Falls, NC
You got it> Be carefull when tightening the pinion nut back up not to over tighten the pinion bearings.
jeepn-jason
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
Is there a torque spec on the pinion nut?
rbo1577186
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2005
- Location
- Winston Salem
The proper way to do this is.....
GET A GOOD SEAL
1. - Put your front or rear up on jackstands and remove wheels. You may need to drain your diff fluid while your at it. You'll know when you remove the seal.
2. - Mark a line from the Driveshaft to the Pinion Yoke. (To align them later)
3. - Remove driveshaft from axle side.
4. - With an inch pound torque wrench, measure the torque required to rotate the pinion nut. Record this while constantly turning the Pinion nut. Also twist it by hand to get a feel of how much resistance it has. This is just to double check your work later.
5. - Now you can get creative on how to remove the Pinion nut. I put a large pipe wrench over the yoke wedged against the garage floor. After removing the nut, use a small dead blow hammer(or brass, aluminum drift) to remove yoke.
6. - Use a chisel/screwdriver to pry seal out.
7. - Clean any old remains of RTV where the old seal was. Clean threads on pinion shaft with a brass brush/rag.
8. - Inspect new seal to make sure it has a good bead around all 360 degrees. I have bought them with a small gap of sealant missing. If so, just add a little RTV, it won't hurt.
9. - Use dead blow hammer or a flat piece of stock that spands across entire seal to drive it in. To be safe, drive it in lightly, working in a circle to seat in flush, without warping the seal.
10. - Put a little grease on the spline of the yoke. Put the yoke on the pinion shaft. Put some red locktite on the threads of your pinion shaft threads. Tighten down Pinion Nut Just until there is no play(Do not overtighten). Rotate by hand to seat everything. If necessary tighten down pinion nut again just until there is no play.(You're supposed to use a new pinion nut but I think you'd be OK with your old one) They are really cheap though......
11. - Adjust torque on pinion nut until the rotating torque is 5 inch pounds more than what it was before you removed the pinion nut. If your torque is over your original reading + 5 inch pounds, back the pinion nut off a little and start over from step 10.
12. - Realign the driveshaft with the yoke (using marks from earlier) and tighten down U-Joint bolts with blue locktite. Wipe off the seal/yoke area off real good with a rag. (for testing purposes later)
13. - After putting wheels back on/replacing gear oil take for a test drive. Look for new splatter marks under vehicle. If no new ones appear, you got it, otherwise double check your work (esecially the RTV part).
I hope this helps and doesn't take too long....
GET A GOOD SEAL
1. - Put your front or rear up on jackstands and remove wheels. You may need to drain your diff fluid while your at it. You'll know when you remove the seal.
2. - Mark a line from the Driveshaft to the Pinion Yoke. (To align them later)
3. - Remove driveshaft from axle side.
4. - With an inch pound torque wrench, measure the torque required to rotate the pinion nut. Record this while constantly turning the Pinion nut. Also twist it by hand to get a feel of how much resistance it has. This is just to double check your work later.
5. - Now you can get creative on how to remove the Pinion nut. I put a large pipe wrench over the yoke wedged against the garage floor. After removing the nut, use a small dead blow hammer(or brass, aluminum drift) to remove yoke.
6. - Use a chisel/screwdriver to pry seal out.
7. - Clean any old remains of RTV where the old seal was. Clean threads on pinion shaft with a brass brush/rag.
8. - Inspect new seal to make sure it has a good bead around all 360 degrees. I have bought them with a small gap of sealant missing. If so, just add a little RTV, it won't hurt.
9. - Use dead blow hammer or a flat piece of stock that spands across entire seal to drive it in. To be safe, drive it in lightly, working in a circle to seat in flush, without warping the seal.
10. - Put a little grease on the spline of the yoke. Put the yoke on the pinion shaft. Put some red locktite on the threads of your pinion shaft threads. Tighten down Pinion Nut Just until there is no play(Do not overtighten). Rotate by hand to seat everything. If necessary tighten down pinion nut again just until there is no play.(You're supposed to use a new pinion nut but I think you'd be OK with your old one) They are really cheap though......
11. - Adjust torque on pinion nut until the rotating torque is 5 inch pounds more than what it was before you removed the pinion nut. If your torque is over your original reading + 5 inch pounds, back the pinion nut off a little and start over from step 10.
12. - Realign the driveshaft with the yoke (using marks from earlier) and tighten down U-Joint bolts with blue locktite. Wipe off the seal/yoke area off real good with a rag. (for testing purposes later)
13. - After putting wheels back on/replacing gear oil take for a test drive. Look for new splatter marks under vehicle. If no new ones appear, you got it, otherwise double check your work (esecially the RTV part).
I hope this helps and doesn't take too long....