Dana20 CV yoke problem

mbalbritton

mbalbritton

#@$%!
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Lakeland, FL
Pulled my D20 Rear Output shaft Yoke and installed a Spicer CV yoke. Problem I'm having is, before I even torque the yoke nut down, it's already binding the T-case up. Specs say to torque the nut down to 200-300ftlb. I've only run the nut down to maybe 100# with the air gun.

I backed the nut off, pulled the yoke, checked it, put it back down, barely ran the nut down it's bound up again.

by bound up , I mean I can't get the yoke to budge a bit, absolutely no play in it.... WTF GIVES????

anyone had problems with this before?
 
Compare the yokes, is the new one cut deeper sitting farther into the case? Are the shoulders the same? Is it shimmed right, bearings and such. That output section comes off easy, nothings gon'na fall out but have never put one of those CV yokes on the back.
 
are you placing a washer between the yoke and the nut?......if so maybe try it without it
 
Is the case in gear. :D Sorry Brent I had to ask.
 
"in gear" THAT'S GOOD! Loved it, made me laugh, Hee, Hee.
 
OK, Noah... maybe I'm not being elementary enough for you.... Yes, Actually it is in Gear! but there is still suppose to be aome Back lash movement in there. :flipoff2:

As for leaving the washer out... do you often leave parts out of your T-case, Tranny, Axles?????

SSWater, You're on to what I'm thinking too. the Yaoke isn't machined right or something. I'll be up at the shop this weekend to check it out.

I really just wanted to see if anyone else might have run into this too...

Oh and Noah... :flipoff2:
 
actually some yoke nuts dont require washers........so the answer is yes....... and theres nothing being left out on the internal parts of the tcase.... :rolleyes:
 
The only time I leave parts out is when I get done witha build and there happen to be those last few screws/bolts/nuts left over... you know, the ones you brush off the back of the bench and walk off whistling... :D
 
Seriously I hope you get it figured out. But I had to ask. :flipoff2:

You might want to try the yoke without the stone guard/dust cover I took mine off when I installed my CV yoke. Otherwise you will have to shim it/put a washer on there.

Hodie
 
kinda like how when yo pick your car up from the mechanic and he gives you a bill and an coffe can full of nuts and bolts and says they were extra that he didnt need to put it back together with......lol
 
spraypaintman said:
Seriously I hope you get it figured out. But I had to ask. :flipoff2:

You might want to try the yoke without the stone guard/dust cover I took mine off when I installed my CV yoke. Otherwise you will have to shim it/put a washer on there.

Hodie
Click to expand...

wait wait wait..... you took the stone guard off otherwise you'd have to shim it? Quite honestly, the stone guard is what I was kinda thinking in the back of my head. I just haven't measured and compared the old yoke and CV yoke to see the depth difference. removing that guard is something I hadn't heard so you may very well have answered my question. I'll check it tomorrow and let you know.

brent
 
I've taken the guards off before but I thought they were just pressed on the yoke sleeve if I remember right. Oh well, post what you find to fix it.
 
What I'm actually thinking is to trim the guard back so that doesn't touch the tail housing and still leaves some shield... figure a little protection is better than none... then again, maybe that's like wearing half a rubber huh?
 
yep Noah, you had the answer. that damn guard... check it.

yoke1.jpg

yoke2.jpg

yoke3.jpg

yoke4.jpg


don't know if the pictures show it.. but there they are anyway.

I knocked the dust/rock guard off and all was cool.

thanks
brent
 
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