Diff/3rd seal dry time

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
My 3rd member keeps leaking where it meets the axle housing, just at the very bottom.
Using Permatex ultra grey, always had good luck w/ it.

Curious how long you guys typically allow it to cure before filling w/ 80w, I'm wondering if maybe I haven't been waiting long enough, it not fully curing, seeping out where there's the most pressure...
 
With the ultra grey I usually let it set up for 12 - 24 hours. If you cant get it to seal, go to the toyota dealer and get a tube of toyota black sealant. They call it fipk. It will seal just about anything.
 
Ever try that "Right Stuff"? I use it on mine and it seals up in about the time it takes me to tighten the bolts back for the diff cover. I usually give it about 15 minutes though. No leaks yet.
 
yeah the "right stuff" works great until u want to take it back apart. we couldnt brake the seal on my buds third with a 5 lb rubber mallet and had to take a chiesel and hammer to it. also about bent my diff cover beyond use on my 8.8 to get it off. ill never use that stuff again.
 
kearnsncsu said:
yeah the "right stuff" works great until u want to take it back apart. we couldnt brake the seal on my buds third with a 5 lb rubber mallet and had to take a chiesel and hammer to it. also about bent my diff cover beyond use on my 8.8 to get it off. ill never use that stuff again.
Click to expand...

And thats a problem why ?

The point is to seal the joint.

Ultra Gray isn't "elastic" enough for that sealing surface, as it does have a bit of movement, which breaks the seal of the ultra gray.

even with all the studs/bolts tight, the casting still moves a bit. Toyota FIPG /FIPK is quite elastic, and will move with casting and housing. I use it at work all the time as well, even use it to adhere power modules for onboard data systems, (sometimes there is no place to safely drill for bolt mounting).

I do advise that you check the housing where the studs thread in, be sure the studs are seated and not wallowing around, or even have pulled threads. I've seen several housings where the bottom studs were barely catching threads.

and one last bit of advise, you don't need to lay a huge bead, 1/8" around perimeter and bolts holes is plenty ( you want to seal it, not cement it in place)
 
RatLabGuy said:
My 3rd member keeps leaking where it meets the axle housing, just at the very bottom.
Using Permatex ultra grey, always had good luck w/ it.
Curious how long you guys typically allow it to cure before filling w/ 80w, I'm wondering if maybe I haven't been waiting long enough, it not fully curing, seeping out where there's the most pressure...
Click to expand...
Dave, it may just be leaking through the threads on the lower studs. When I had my 3rd out on my Toyota I removed all the studs to clean the gasket surface area. Put it all back together and found that the studs were leaking. Drained gear oil out, removed all lower studs and put permatex on the threads and reinstalled. No more leaks.
 
Ive had em leak if you dont put the sealant completely around the bolt holes. So youd run a bead around and make a circle when you hit a bolt hole.

-Jud
 
i think we need to point out one important fact........ this is on a modified toy 8'' housing that was retrofitted to accept Elocker. with that said surface is probably not completely flat. use the toy stuff and be liberal. give it ample time to setup before putting oil in it.
 
I don't think this is the case but sometimes......

The bolts are over torqued which pushes the sealant out (at this time the sealant has not cured). Instead of a metal/sealant/metal contact, you have metal to metal. If you torque it down enough to see a little start to "pooch" out around the edges, then let it cure for a few hours, then torque it down after it's hardened enough not to squeeze out, you typically have better results. This isn't always necessary, but sh*t happens.

The Right Stuff is the sh*t. Nissan uses this at the factory (at least they used to) and their oil pans can be a M F to get off.
 
I understand a lot of mfrs are going to The Right Stuff on new motors. It's replacing paper gaskets. I replace paper gaskets with it. It stays very flexible, bonds well, and is ready for use immediately. You can also get it in a caulk-style tube with applicator, or a pressurized, easy application can. I use the caulk tube, I've used the Power Can before. Both methods kick much ass over the tubes we're used to!
 
Cperry said:
i think we need to point out one important fact........ this is on a modified toy 8'' housing that was retrofitted to accept Elocker. with that said surface is probably not completely flat. use the toy stuff and be liberal. give it ample time to setup before putting oil in it.
Click to expand...

This was kind of my thinking, I prob should having pointed that out.
The very bottom is where I had to grind the housing out a little for the larger ring gear, not only is it possibly not flat but also a little thinner top/bottom.

There is a paper gasket toyota uses, but my experience w/ them on the other thirds is that they tend to leak

So really the magic question is - now that's already filled and leaks just a little, is it possible to "plug" it w/ something liek a dab of The Right Stuff? or will it never cure
 
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