DIY paint - Hammered?

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
I've replaced my fenders, and soon getting a hybrid cage, it'll probbaly be time to re-paint the body (esp since the fenders currently are bare metal).

I'm think of doing it w/ the Rustoleum Hammered, it hides imperfections, scratches etc well, plus easy to "patch" w/ a quick spray later.

Roughly how many rattle cans would it take to do an 80s 4Runner? e.g. standard cab shortbed pickup size. At $6.50/can I see it adding up.
I have a compressor but it's small (5 gal?), I *think* the CFMs are too low for spraying, what's a practical minimum?

Any tips?
That stuff is so sticky, could it go on top of the old paint?
 
I rattle can camoed a short bed full size truck a few years back. Took about a dozen cans best I remember, but I didn't do inside the bed or jams.
 
I would sand it down some and then clean it before you spray it. Just enough to get any loose paint and debris off it. Make sure to take your time taping everything off. I know sanding and taping suck but it's worth it. That hammered paint is pretty stout stuff though. I've painted tons of things with it over the years.
 
I HAVE A FRIEND THAT CAN BEDLINE THE OUTSIDE FOR LIKE $300 IN MATTHEWS NC
 
jweezyferg said:
I HAVE A FRIEND THAT CAN BEDLINE THE OUTSIDE FOR LIKE $300 IN MATTHEWS NC
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bedling looks pretty sweet but its a good way to overheat your car, the liner just traps the heat in the engine compartment and the cab. my friend got his whole cherokee done and dont get me wrong it looked sweet but everything just got hot as crap, the liner just insulated everything.

if you do bed line anything doing just like the first few inches along the bottom always looks cool
 
mbrooks said:
I rattle can camoed a short bed full size truck a few years back. Took about a dozen cans best I remember, but I didn't do inside the bed or jams.
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That's about what I'd do, just outside.
Wow 12 rattle cans = ~$85... a quart can is only $17. Makes me wonder about rigging up LPLV or something. How much might I get out of a quart of this? I'm guessing it'd need to be thinned for spraying.
Of ocurse the PITA of that may not be worth the $$ saved.
 
With the rustoleum oil based paint, you can brush it on, or roll it on. I painted the 156XJ with a HVLP gun using rustoleum paint thinned with acetone turned out decent.
 
I am not a fan of the Hammered Paint, Seems like they get the hammered look from it not covering well. Just my opinion, and it could have been what I was painting also.

I am about to have to paint my front fenders, I have a cheapo sprayer for my compressor, I have give thought to using it also. I think Napa can match the paint.
 
jph0913 said:
With the rustoleum oil based paint, you can brush it on, or roll it on. I painted the 156XJ with a HVLP gun using rustoleum paint thinned with acetone turned out decent.
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I've got to agree with this for a couple reasons. One- it's going to be WAY cheaper to roll it. Two- I did paint my dad's trailer about four years ago with Rustoleum and a nice short nap roller, and it still looks great today. Three- for an expensive paint, Rustoleum's spray cans are inexcusably bad. What sucks about them is that the spray tips on them spray in a cone, whereas a better quality tip sprays in a fan pattern, like a real paint gun. With the cone spray pattern it is impossible to lay down a nice even coat because the spray pattern is thinner at the top, thick in the middle, and then thinner at the bottom again. This causes uneven coverage and promotes runs. If you're still going to use rattle cans instead of bulk paint, go with either Krylon or Dupli-Color, both of which are about the same price as Rustoleum, but have much better spray tips. I've had the best experience with Dupli-Color.

edit: And as for the original question- I'm not a huge fan of the hammered paint so I wouldn't use it. It has never seemed to be as durable to me as other paints.
 
Hammered rustoleum is a huge pain in the ass to use with a spray gun. I've used the stuff for years and am now realizing it isn't as great as I used to think. Like mike said, the thinned spots that give it the "hammered" look are just places that are soon to rust. Don't go with anything "satin" colored if you want to cover up ugly body work and dirt either.
I'm sure you remember SHINTON wrote a really good rattle can paint article a longassed time ago that might help? http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=277050
 
Krylon is about the only rattlecan I use any more. Sprays nice covers good and not too expensive.

I'm gonna paint my XJ soon. I'm gonna go to Napa for the paint and spray with a cheap gun I have layin around the shop. I meen, you're just gonna beat it up in the woods anyway....
 
I painted the Race Bronco for Dylan with black Rustoleum using a spray gun and it worked great.. and i did not tape it off all that great but still turned out very good
 
hammered doesn't go very well and is expensive. I used it on the chassis for my buggy. I loved how it turned out but took way more cans than I was expecting.

If I were doing it again, I'd steer away from the hammered paint. lots of coats and it looks good and holds up well but it takes more than normal.
 
I used hammered on my Jeep tub, even when I dented it a few hundred times, the pain only chipped in one place. I didn't spray it though, I rolled it. I would roll it again, no experience with the spray.
 
upnover said:
I didn't spray it though, I rolled it. I would roll it again
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I was gonna throw that out as as option, but wasn't sure how it'd work with hammered. About all I can recall about your Jeep is that it's silver/gray and always looked pretty decent after a good scrub... :lol:

My dad rolled a '57 ragtop VW with "genuine" IH red enamel (he worked for a binder dealer) back in the late '60s... he said the enamel lasted better than the original paint (with a coat of wax every year). Said they masked it off, scuffed it with steelwool, blew it off, tackcloth for sniggles, & used the lowest nap roller available. It looked pretty good when he sold it in the early '70s...

Been thinking if rolling the Moss with something... tired of the "camo" appearance :rolleyes:
 
I've also been debating rolling it.
When i did one of the 4Runner chop-top/Targa projects, I rolled on black Hammered. Did that onmy rocker panel guards/sliders too.
It came out OK, but getting the texture right was a real pain. The problem being that every time you go over a section (like back and forth), it changes the texture. Not a big deal until you come to wide areas that require rolling in rows/sections etc.
Def the cool thing about rolling it though is that you can just do one section at a time, w/ minmal taping etc.

i like the Hammered b/c it hides scratches and imperfections so well (plus being so tough),

I've had teh same problem w/ their rattle cans w/ the Cone vs flat spray effect. Doest he Krylon have this problem?

Anybody used these in an LVLP gun? I could do that, just not HVLP... but I wonder if the thickness would be a problem for the smaller atomizer.
 
i rattle canned my 95 reg cab yota 2 coats with i think 8-9 cans of flat black Krylon.
 
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