Drilling And Tapping PS Box?

jeepn-jason

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Greensboro
I am working on adding hydro assist to my cj and have a couple of ?s. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the big ass nut off of the input side of the box. I have a huge pair of channel locks and it will not budge. I have soaked it in PB last night and Ill try again later. Has anyone tapped a box without pulling the guts? What are your tricks to keep the shavings out of the internals. Thanks jason
 
Yes, I tapped mine without taking it apart. Is it the right way? not sure, can't argue with success.
I took my box off and it still had fluid in it. I drilled the holes, and used a magnet to get shavings out, I then tapped it, and did the same again with the magnet. Then when I got all I could out, I turned the pitman arm and flushed it out with the fluid it still had in it. 2 years and no problems
 
Yes, I tapped mine without taking it apart. Is it the right way? not sure, can't argue with success.
I took my box off and it still had fluid in it. I drilled the holes, and used a magnet to get shavings out, I then tapped it, and did the same again with the magnet. Then when I got all I could out, I turned the pitman arm and flushed it out with the fluid it still had in it. 2 years and no problems


Thats what I need to hear. Did you use a straight tap or tapered. I would think that the tapered one will bottom out too soon. Thanks for the info.
 
Thats what I need to hear. Did you use a straight tap or tapered. I would think that the tapered one will bottom out too soon. Thanks for the info.

I used the tapered 1/4 NPT. Biggest tip I can give you is to drill, then tap a little, check it, tap some more if needed, and so on until you get the desired depth. IF you mess up and go too deep you will block the passage, So if you do mess up and go to deep( by deep I mean too many turns so it doesn't tighten before it bottoms) you can shave some of the the fitting off. Both the tap, and the fitting has a tapper on it. Just as "Norm" says measure twice, cut once" Tap a little at a time to insure it will work.
 
I used the tapered 1/4 NPT. Biggest tip I can give you is to drill, then tap a little, check it, tap some more if needed, and so on until you get the desired depth. IF you mess up and go too deep you will block the passage, So if you do mess up and go to deep( by deep I mean too many turns so it doesn't tighten before it bottoms) you can shave some of the the fitting off. Both the tap, and the fitting has a tapper on it. Just as "Norm" says measure twice, cut once" Tap a little at a time to insure it will work.


Good Tip Chip! I've been looking and reading about doing this to my CJ. I've never used an NPT tap and didn't even think about that aspect, nor I have read that tip yet. I've only ever used normal thread taps. Just run it all the way thru and back it out. Can't do that with the tapper. Good tip, Thanks!
 
I am using the 1/4 npt tapered tap. I am going to give it a shot tonight.
 
Did mine with the box still in the Jeep. I went too far with my first tap. Used Chip's "shave a bit off of the fitting" to get it to seal. Like has been said. Go slow, check for fitment frequently.
 
I got the box drilled last night. I drilled with a 1/4" bit first for a pilot hole, and followed up with a 7/16. I stopped every 2 or 3 sec. and cleaned the shavings with a magnet. I hope I got them all. I also packed the flutes of the tap with grease to help keep shavings out. Now I need to cut the tap down so I can get to the bottom.
 
Only thing I'll add is I magnetized my bits and tap and it seemed to grab most of the shavings along with the grease.
 
What size cylinder are you guys running, and what are the pros and cons? Everywhere that i have read says 1.5" bore if it sees some street time, and 2" if not. I would really like to do the 2" bore because of price. I am also adding a tranny cooler to the low pressure ps hose for more capacity.
Thanks Jason
 
I don't have experience with the 1 1/2 bore. Mine is a 2" bore. It is slower response, but works well. Takes a little getting use to. Hwy is no different. Back roads, sharp curves is where you will feel the difference. Something I live with seeing how mine sees very little street use. the cooler is a good idea, but when you turn sharp and open your cylinder all the way out, you may hear your power steering pump start to growl. You will need to add extra capacity to your pump to keep from draining it.
 
i tapped my box on the top aluminum piece and then on the cap at the end of the box and didn't even take the box off the truck just took the aluminum piece off and the end cap. the only thing i had to do was weld a piece of aluminum to the cap because it was a little thinner then i liked. Adding extra fluid is a must i have a 2" bore and mine would drain my pump when i opened it up so i got apiece of radiator hose and attached it to the top of the box with a hose clamp and put piece of 1 1/4 galvinized pipe with a cap on it on the other end for filling i love it wish i had done it sooner
 
There are after market reservoirs, just have to search for them. I have heard of folks using a reservoir off of a astro van.
I cut the top off of another old Saginaw box, used a piece of radiator hose and the piece I cut. So you still have a fill cap.
I toyed with the idea of putting a hole in the side, brazing a nut to it, and running a remote reservoir over beside the radiator. Just never did it.
 
I took my box apart to tap it. I was paranoid about getting metal inside and doing damage. It was a rebuilt box that I had just bought too. I am running a 2" ram on the street and it drives fine. From my limited experience with mine and my buddies, if you modify the pump for increased flow, it is OK. I cut the plastic neck in half on my pump housing and inserted a piece of radiator hose off a Volvo truck. This way I still have the factory cap.

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I'm not sure the radiator hose is taking the ATF all that well though. It is starting to appear like it is seeping through.
 
I have got the box back on the jeep, just saving some dough to add the hydro cyl. I think im going to hold out and get the psc 1.5" ram. Also something else I did, was put 2 belts on the ps pump. This seemed to help alot. I can atleast turn in 4wd without it sqealing like a pig now.
 
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