easy chevy lift?

meatheadwes

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Nov 8, 2009
Location
kings mountain
i got a 87 chevy custome deluxe with a 2 in block in the rear and a 3 in. add a leaf in the front. im running a new set off 35's and i want some extra tire clearance to help with the rub when when i flex. whats the cheapest way to lift it to around 4-6 with out messin with my steerin or drive shaft angles?
 
ORD.com they specialize in fullsize chevy suspensions. prolly should go with a shackle flip in the rear with 63in springs from a z-71, and tuff country springs in the front.
 
We did the stock chevy 52" rear up front swap like CK5.com. Then, a shackle flip and stock 1-ton 56" rears in the rear on our 1989 K5. It was cheap ($600) and really flexy. However, it does mess with the steering, driveshaft, and required longer shocks. Total about 6" of lift and plenty of room for 38x12.50's. Here's an idea, and don't think I'm some cheap redneck who doesn't care about looks. CUT IT! Low center of gravity is the ONLY way to go off road. It's safer, it costs less, and there are lots of great ways to change the body to make more tire clearance. Don't just go hacking away with a sawzall or angle grinder. A good body man can give you some tips to make it look professional. Plus, a stock or close to stock suspension will flex better off road, and behave more sensibly on road.
 
i would cut it. but the body is pretty well straight except the door cuase its not the original. i got room in the back i just want another inch or so im thinkin zero rate add a leafs or regular add a leafs
 
One middle leaf out of a 52" stock leaf pack will give you 1" of lift, you could try two leaves for more. Two stock rear spring packs should only cost you $20-$50 at the junkyard. That cheap enough? You can get new longer center pins at tractor supply for about $2.
 
One middle leaf out of a 52" stock leaf pack will give you 1" of lift, you could try two leaves for more. Two stock rear spring packs should only cost you $20-$50 at the junkyard. That cheap enough? You can get new longer center pins at tractor supply for about $2.
Where are the center pins located at TSC? I haven't seen any, then again I haven't asked for them there, or are you just shaving down the head of a long bolt to fit?
 
I'm using a grade 8 allen head cap screw. The circular part fits the hole in a u-bolt plate almost perfectly. You find them in the drawers in the hardware section, not with the springs/trailer hardware.
 

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sounds like im headed to the junkyard. what year should i look for or should i just bring a tape measure?
 
I'm using a grade 8 allen head cap screw. The circular part fits the hole in a u-bolt plate almost perfectly. You find them in the drawers in the hardware section, not with the springs/trailer hardware.
Ah, I see, the allen head bolts they offer are nowhere near the length I need, I need a center pin roughly 10" long for my 1ton springs.
 
sounds like im headed to the junkyard. what year should i look for or should i just bring a tape measure?
78-88 1500 Chevy or GMC 4WD, or a blazer of the same vintage. Rears only.
 
Ah, I see, the allen head bolts they offer are nowhere near the length I need, I need a center pin roughly 10" long for my 1ton springs.
JESUS dude! You bolting blocks and 1-ton springs together or something? Our 1-ton springs only measured 6-7 inches thick...even with an extra leaf in them! If you're gonna run a center pin that long, I'd go with one that's like 9/16" and grade 10 or more.
 
Ah, I see, the allen head bolts they offer are nowhere near the length I need, I need a center pin roughly 10" long for my 1ton springs.

You might want to buy a back brace for riding in that truck.
 
Only thing I've seen with springs that thick was the deuce I pulled my rockwells out from under. I bet it rides stiff!
 
JESUS dude! You bolting blocks and 1-ton springs together or something? Our 1-ton springs only measured 6-7 inches thick...even with an extra leaf in them! If you're gonna run a center pin that long, I'd go with one that's like 9/16" and grade 10 or more.
No blocks except the stock block/bumpstop that is bolted back there, but pretty sure the pin doesn't go through it anyway like most blocks. As it sits now, there are 10 leafs, a ~1" thick overload leaf, a ~1" spacer, and about 8-10 overload leafs on top of that. I didn't actually measure how tall the spring pack was, so that number is surely exaggerated slightly. Either way, even at 6-7" I haven't seen allen head cap screws long enough to do the job. I know a few leafs were added as all other one tons I have seen have had either 7 or 9 leafs, and a much shorter overload leaf stack, many of them only one or two leafs, this truck has spent most of the last 34 years with a 250gallon skid unit and equipment in the bed, so probably ~2500lbs+ or so. The front "may" have been lifted at some point as well, as it had Rancho shocks and stabilizers all around.
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You might want to buy a back brace for riding in that truck.
That's for sure. The reason I have been needing some center pins is to remove a few leafs from the rear to help the ride some and bring the rear down since I don't haul that heavy with it anymore.
 
thanks for the out put will it mess with my steerin any?
Yes, it will. I don't think so much as you'll need a lifted steering arm, though. If you're still using the old push-pull steering instead of crossover, you'll only need to slightly lengthen or shorten the draglink accordingly to keep the same number of turns lock-to-lock. A good alignment shop can fix that for you.
 
how bad cause i dont plan on puttin it on the road for a month or two. im gonna do a full leaf pack in the front. i found a pair of 4 inch lift springs online for $120 so that cant go wrong
 
Not that bad. Try it out, and then decide what you need to do after you test drive it.
 
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